an ECU flash will benefit you more than the SAFC. i would suggest either Al's Dynoflash or Ecutek along with the Hallman Pro MBC. that MBC is cheap & holds boost all day long w/no issues.

 

You don't know what you're talking about. You keep harping on flashes, but have no clue how useful an S-AFC is or how vital it is when conditions constantly change (temp/humidity/octane). I adjust my S-AFC on a daily basis just to run optimally according to the weather. Sometimes it's 55 degrees and others it is 80 with 80% humidity. I don't want the same settings in both, just as an example...

Flashes are great, but they are more for those who don't know what they're doing and need it done for them. A flash + s-afc is excellent, but it costs the most and could probably be replaced by a standalone for the price.

 

i say do both the flash and get the safc to minor tune for condition changes

 

I do plan on both, Flash & S-AFC.

 

I would say excellent choice, but wouldn't the combined price (including any reflashes) put you in the range of a standalone that could do everything these do and then some, but without ever having to send your ECU out for a reflash?

 

that's retarded to compare a flash price to a standalone. my base dynoflash was $175. the MoTec i want is $4500. a flash (with or without a SAFC) is just a cheap way to enjoy & maximize stock turbo power until you no longer have a use for it. i regret not buying the standalone 1st & adjusting the mods to it.

 

Yeah, retarded...ok. I haven't seen any flashes cost $175. I've seen Al's Dynoflash for $200, but that is apparently way underpriced compared to the others. Then, you have to get reflashes as you go, unless you do every mod at once and don't get the flash until every mod is isntalled.

UTEC is about $1k (doesn't replace ECU, but does everything you need)

AEM EMS is about $2k - after multiple flashes and an S-AFC, this figure isn't too far off.

Of course, you'd bring up the one that costs 4.5k...duh.

 

Why would anyone even bother with an NA car at that height. It wouldn't even be worth it.
Don't bother with a MoTeC, there's nothing on it you couldn't do with an AEM or UTEC, unless you're only racing your car and no one near you can tune an AEM.

 

I think you should try launching your differently, with that clutch you could do better (not hatn' either bud). Altitude does have a big impact up here, but you should be able with some more practice knock at least 1/2 second off that time. Go again dude, good luck!

 

I went 12.8@105 w/ those mods you listed on the stock clutch cutting 1.75 60's. At Bandi no less.

I think your car has more than 14's in it. Keep trying!

 

I think I big part of it was the wheel spin I was getting. I'm gonna go to Bandi and see how much of a difference it is. I honestly thought I was going to get 14.0's

 

That could be too, but I think practice more than anything would help.

 

It actually still makes a big difference. Turbos don't spool as quickly and they don't run as much boost up here. My HKS3240 would max out at 27psi in Denver. I shipped it to Philly at it maxed out at 34 psi. The car was dyno'd in Denver and in Philly, the HP difference was huge and the curve was very different. I also have supercharger truck that ran a 13.9 in Detroit, best at Bandi in Denver is a 14.9.

 

Does the boost really drop? Didn't think the boost would drop just the hp that its making.

 

Makes you wonder how the guy ran low 12s @ 112mph with just a TBE, Flash, and filter (on race gas, mind you) at 2700'. Is it possible to be at high elevation and somehow not be affected negatively? Most people complain of the elevation, and it seems legit, because other cars at the same track do much worse than normal, but there are others who run just like they're at sea level, like the guy who went 12.8@105 at Bandi. That's just about exactly what I ran here at 500'...