whats up w/ my trap speeds?
Originally Posted by SKILMATIC
Well first off you have not a clue what the track layout is. By the time you are ready to do your burnouts you just basically sat for 30minutes getting up to the burn out area so your car is already warm by then. So again doesnt matter how you look at it your car will be very warm by the time you race. And 2-3hp wouldnt cause a 5mph decrease in trap speeds especially at a 1/8mile drag strip. So again your thought was noted but it isnt likely at all.
The OP stated he last ran at 11 pm.
I'm going out on a limb here that there was little to no line in front of him .
I really doubt he chose to wait 30 min before the run after cooling down for 40 min either.
Burnouts ? Dude, his best 60 was a 1.8x. I don't think he did a burnout.
And again I never did say he lost 5mph because of the cool down.
Also I remember a thread back from a shop ( can't remeber which one) on this forum that after he made some dyno pulls cold that the power came up due to the fluids being at optimal temps.
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Originally Posted by Nad1370
The OP stated he last ran at 11 pm.
I'm going out on a limb here that there was little to no line in front of him .
I really doubt he chose to wait 30 min before the run after cooling down for 40 min either.
Burnouts ? Dude, his best 60 was a 1.8x. I don't think he did a burnout.
And again I never did say he lost 5mph because of the cool down.
Also I remember a thread back from a shop ( can't remeber which one) on this forum that after he made some dyno pulls cold that the power came up due to the fluids being at optimal temps.
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I'm going out on a limb here that there was little to no line in front of him .
I really doubt he chose to wait 30 min before the run after cooling down for 40 min either.
Burnouts ? Dude, his best 60 was a 1.8x. I don't think he did a burnout.
And again I never did say he lost 5mph because of the cool down.
Also I remember a thread back from a shop ( can't remeber which one) on this forum that after he made some dyno pulls cold that the power came up due to the fluids being at optimal temps.
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Also I never said he did a burnout or not I simply stated that as the point of reference. Meaning from the time he lines up to the time he hits the burn out area its been about 15-30min.
Just wanted to add a couple things to this thread.
Adding race gas and not tuning your car makes it richer( read slower) basically the fuel particles are more dence and this is what gives it the ability to run more boost and more timing.
If you add race gas and raise the boost you will see better times then 91 or any additives. Because when you are drag racing you are at full boost 80-85 percent of the time.
One culprit that sometimes gets overlooked is a weak clutch. Do you think your clutch could be slipping at all? Is the car having a problem with wheel hop or hooking up at all?
Please get a alignment one wrong move and you could have you evo in the wall on the track. Also not fiting the wheel you will be able to concentrate better on the track and your shifting.
Adding race gas and not tuning your car makes it richer( read slower) basically the fuel particles are more dence and this is what gives it the ability to run more boost and more timing.
If you add race gas and raise the boost you will see better times then 91 or any additives. Because when you are drag racing you are at full boost 80-85 percent of the time.
One culprit that sometimes gets overlooked is a weak clutch. Do you think your clutch could be slipping at all? Is the car having a problem with wheel hop or hooking up at all?
Please get a alignment one wrong move and you could have you evo in the wall on the track. Also not fiting the wheel you will be able to concentrate better on the track and your shifting.
Originally Posted by bbbwrx
Just wanted to add a couple things to this thread.
Adding race gas and not tuning your car makes it richer( read slower) basically the fuel particles are more dence and this is what gives it the ability to run more boost and more timing.
If you add race gas and raise the boost you will see better times then 91 or any additives. Because when you are drag racing you are at full boost 80-85 percent of the time.
One culprit that sometimes gets overlooked is a weak clutch. Do you think your clutch could be slipping at all? Is the car having a problem with wheel hop or hooking up at all?
Please get a alignment one wrong move and you could have you evo in the wall on the track. Also not fiting the wheel you will be able to concentrate better on the track and your shifting.
Adding race gas and not tuning your car makes it richer( read slower) basically the fuel particles are more dence and this is what gives it the ability to run more boost and more timing.
If you add race gas and raise the boost you will see better times then 91 or any additives. Because when you are drag racing you are at full boost 80-85 percent of the time.
One culprit that sometimes gets overlooked is a weak clutch. Do you think your clutch could be slipping at all? Is the car having a problem with wheel hop or hooking up at all?
Please get a alignment one wrong move and you could have you evo in the wall on the track. Also not fiting the wheel you will be able to concentrate better on the track and your shifting.
Wheel hop is usually from dumping the clutch and then dubble clutching. If you just learn to slip it properly you will not wheel hop(well at least I dont). However, I wil say qualcomm is a crappy track and wheel hop does occur alot.
However, another crappy thing is they just raised their rates to 30bucks to race and 8bucks to watch. And the thing is its not even a 1/4 mile drag. Its becoming quite the rip off these days.
Originally Posted by SKILMATIC
Yes however, adding race gas and boost to a car that has a stock ecu will not work. Because unless you get it tuned your car will start to pull timing rendoring that method useless.
Wheel hop is usually from dumping the clutch and then dubble clutching. If you just learn to slip it properly you will not wheel hop(well at least I dont). However, I wil say qualcomm is a crappy track and wheel hop does occur alot.
Wheel hop is usually from dumping the clutch and then dubble clutching. If you just learn to slip it properly you will not wheel hop(well at least I dont). However, I wil say qualcomm is a crappy track and wheel hop does occur alot.
edit: Thinking about it the increased airflow will change the load site and could lower timing that way but it could also increase timing depending on what is in the ecu.
Last edited by bbbwrx; Aug 29, 2006 at 10:40 PM.
Originally Posted by bbbwrx
The ecu does not pull timing unless it sees a high knock sum which running race gas will keep it from knocking. But it won't advance timing more to take advantage of the race gas.
edit: Thinking about it the increased airflow will change the load site and could lower timing that way but it could also increase timing depending on what is in the ecu.
edit: Thinking about it the increased airflow will change the load site and could lower timing that way but it could also increase timing depending on what is in the ecu.
So just because you add race fuel doesnt mean you wont ever knock. This is why increasing boost and using race gas is kinda frowned upon here at evom w/o getting tuned for it.
I don't understand how the car would knock at all after adding race gas. The race gas will burn much slower and prevent any knock from occurring. Therefore, the knock sensor wont be tripped and no timing gets pulled.
Guys running 93-94 octane get better HP number than us running 91 octane, stock or not. The ECU doesn't need to be tuned to a higher octane rating to benefit from it, the slower-burning fuel helps control knock better is all.
Guys running 93-94 octane get better HP number than us running 91 octane, stock or not. The ECU doesn't need to be tuned to a higher octane rating to benefit from it, the slower-burning fuel helps control knock better is all.
Also, when I said I let the car cool down for 40 mins before my last run (which happened to be the best run of the night by .2 sec and best MPH), the engine was still warm when I started it back up. Even though there really wasn't much of a wait... 5-7mins, that is PLENTY of time to get everything back up to operating temps, being that the car was already warm.
On a side note, when i used to race my gsxr750 at qualcomm, I got my best times when I let the bike cool down for a good hour and the temps were around 130 degrees, not the normal 175+degrees I'd see when cruising on the freeways.
On a side note, when i used to race my gsxr750 at qualcomm, I got my best times when I let the bike cool down for a good hour and the temps were around 130 degrees, not the normal 175+degrees I'd see when cruising on the freeways.
Originally Posted by nigletsyz
I don't understand how the car would knock at all after adding race gas. The race gas will burn much slower and prevent any knock from occurring. Therefore, the knock sensor wont be tripped and no timing gets pulled.
Guys running 93-94 octane get better HP number than us running 91 octane, stock or not. The ECU doesn't need to be tuned to a higher octane rating to benefit from it, the slower-burning fuel helps control knock better is all.
Guys running 93-94 octane get better HP number than us running 91 octane, stock or not. The ECU doesn't need to be tuned to a higher octane rating to benefit from it, the slower-burning fuel helps control knock better is all.
We at evom have been there and done it. Why do you think people get their car flashed with a race map? If we could run race gas and increase boost w/o a flash with no problem then why do people go out and spend 400bucks on a tune to do just that?
Im simply saying, doing that w/o gettign tuned is NOT a good idea. Yes, I am sure you can do it but you arent doing it safely.
Originally Posted by nigletsyz
Also, when I said I let the car cool down for 40 mins before my last run (which happened to be the best run of the night by .2 sec and best MPH), the engine was still warm when I started it back up. Even though there really wasn't much of a wait... 5-7mins, that is PLENTY of time to get everything back up to operating temps, being that the car was already warm.
On a side note, when i used to race my gsxr750 at qualcomm, I got my best times when I let the bike cool down for a good hour and the temps were around 130 degrees, not the normal 175+degrees I'd see when cruising on the freeways.
On a side note, when i used to race my gsxr750 at qualcomm, I got my best times when I let the bike cool down for a good hour and the temps were around 130 degrees, not the normal 175+degrees I'd see when cruising on the freeways.
Also your best run of the whole night was after the cooling period which is the total opposite of what nad1370 exclaimed.
I just want everyone to know that it is very crucial to cool down your car.
Originally Posted by SKILMATIC
Yes I am well aware of the temp status of the evo engine unlike nad1370.
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skilmatic,
Just to correct your above statement againts me.
I stated in my first post in this thread that is was Driveline fluids not engine.
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Originally Posted by Nad1370
skilmatic,
Just to correct your above statement againts me.
I stated in my first post in this thread that is was Driveline fluids not engine.
.
Just to correct your above statement againts me.
I stated in my first post in this thread that is was Driveline fluids not engine.
.
Originally Posted by SKILMATIC
We are not saying that. I am simply saying just because you raise oct levels doesnt mean your car wont knock. Especially if its only 93oct. Because 93 oct in some places is pump gas. I ma talking about runing race fuel like 100+ oct. The fact of the matter is even running that oct level for starters the ecu isnt tuned for it so no matter how you look at it increasing boost and increasing oct levels is not a good idea because you will end up knocking and running crappy.
We at evom have been there and done it. Why do you think people get their car flashed with a race map? If we could run race gas and increase boost w/o a flash with no problem then why do people go out and spend 400bucks on a tune to do just that?
Im simply saying, doing that w/o gettign tuned is NOT a good idea. Yes, I am sure you can do it but you arent doing it safely.
We at evom have been there and done it. Why do you think people get their car flashed with a race map? If we could run race gas and increase boost w/o a flash with no problem then why do people go out and spend 400bucks on a tune to do just that?
Im simply saying, doing that w/o gettign tuned is NOT a good idea. Yes, I am sure you can do it but you arent doing it safely.
Originally Posted by nigletsyz
The ECU has been tuned for a much lower octane. Its not the opposite. Running the higher octane has obvious advantages that have already been discussed in allowing higher boost to be run. The main reason people get their race maps is because along with running higher boost, the ignition map is advanced. So to say that running higher boost while running race fuel without getting tuned doesn't make sense. The fact is that after getting tuned, the map is even MORE agressive than it was before.
For some apparent reason many many people on evom get flashed to be able to run higher boost with higher oct levels. It has been this way for a very long time now I am just suprised you dont know this. That is probably why you are running so crappy. Your lack of understanding of the evo's tuning dynmaics is partly the reaosn why you havent been running the times you should be.



