BR35r Results, stock internals, and injectors.
Well just got my 35R kit installed Saturday morning and decided to take it out to the Saturday night drags. Still running the stock injectors because the place I ordered my 880's from is taking forever. Car has the mods in my sig, minus the stuff f/s, and the BR35R kit that is on sale right now.
On the run I loaded a conservative map I had from my stock turbo and meth and turned the boost down to 25psi. Here are the results.
60' 1.779 (can we say spin
)
1/8e/t 7.005
1/8mph didnt print
1/4e/t 11.438
1/4mph 125.6
Keep in mind this is with the af/r in the 10.7-10.6 range and peak timing at 16*. Pretty impressive turbo if you ask me. Can't wait to see what it will do with the right injectors and a good tune. Major props to the guys at Buschur for such a great, affordable kit.
On the run I loaded a conservative map I had from my stock turbo and meth and turned the boost down to 25psi. Here are the results.
60' 1.779 (can we say spin
)1/8e/t 7.005
1/8mph didnt print
1/4e/t 11.438
1/4mph 125.6
Keep in mind this is with the af/r in the 10.7-10.6 range and peak timing at 16*. Pretty impressive turbo if you ask me. Can't wait to see what it will do with the right injectors and a good tune. Major props to the guys at Buschur for such a great, affordable kit.
Meth makes a huge difference. On 93 with the stock injectors maxxed out, I'm limited to 17psi and this is only on a little green. Still pulls harder than 24 on the stocker though. Congrats on the times. I see 133+ with injectors and a tune EASY.
Like I said..... it all depends on the car.
If you paid $75/gallon for import im sorry to say but you got taken. We sell it for $25/gallon.
Its not the small turbine housing.... its the PARTS COMBINATION AND TUNING. The kit makes power its been shown time and time again. We put out 500+WHP cars with this kit on on a pretty much regular basis.
The car is a built car. Motor, head, AEM EMS, big cams, all of our supporting mods, C16 race gas etc....
110 octane will not net the performance of say C16 but I would say it would still make pretty decent #'s.
Shooting for dynojet #'s is just shooting for crank horsepower. 500 on a Dynojet would equal to roughly 400 wheel horsepower on our Mustang dyno.
Also I would not really recommend shooting for high numbers and low ET's on the stock internals just for safety reasons. My car made 462 on the older setup on our Mustang dyno and went 11.04 @ 128mph on a 92 degree day and a 1.74 60' with regular BFG street tires (KDW-2), full weight, 100% STOCK block, head, intake manifold, ignition, throttlebody, etc...
It was just equipped with our stages 1-4, (HKS 272 cams, 780 cc injectors (included in stage 3 &4) ARP headstuds, 3065 turbo kit and AEM EMS.
I changed out the internals just for added safety so I could have David lean on it a bit more. It just put JE pistons and Crower Rods in it. Left the head stock except for valve springs & retainers for the bigger BF272 cams I added along with 1000cc injectors. It then put down 502 with the only real power mod being added were the cams. Same boost of 29psi and same C16 fuel from the 462 number. It gained 40whp and about 35ft trq. from just the cams.
If you were to have a stock rod break (and they have) a brand new EMPTY block core from Mitsu. will be $1800 then you would need to have it built. We charge $3050 for a stage 3 2.0 block and $3550 for our stage 3 2.3 block. That is priced with your good core. Also we have seen the stock rod bolts stretch under a high power application with the stock internals.
I also would not recommend running this setup with the stock injectors. I would at LEAST do a 680 upgrade... actually a 780 if your tuner can get them to run right.
makes sense. ive seen a few guys manage a high 10 off of a setup similar to mine. your 35r kit and supporting mods. everything changed but internals. with a flash. i was thinking it was highly attainable at 100 octane as seen on here. i was thinking of using 110. making it theoridically more attainable. i see what your saying Jarrod i appreciate your input. i'll just see what i can do off of 110 octane and post it on here
Weird, You went quicker in the 1/8th with a gt35r and quicker in the second half of the track with a stock turbo??? If you went .3 quicker in the eigth over your stock turbo you should have gone 11.0 there.
Well I'll see if I can touch on on the things mentioned.
Currently running the plugs still gapped at .26 from the stocker.
I ran a 7.3 1/8th e/t on my 11.36 run I think. Its in a thread around here somewhere.
Getting the new injectors tomorrow but probably won't make it to the track this weekend.
The Yellow Evo is still faster. His is a fully built 2.4l with a 37R, mines a stock block with a 35R
Currently running the plugs still gapped at .26 from the stocker.
I ran a 7.3 1/8th e/t on my 11.36 run I think. Its in a thread around here somewhere.
Getting the new injectors tomorrow but probably won't make it to the track this weekend.
The Yellow Evo is still faster. His is a fully built 2.4l with a 37R, mines a stock block with a 35R

i should be running my car mid next month. i was going to run radials like jarrod although because of time and money im going to use my azenis instead. ive heard of a few guys on the forms clicking off 1.7 on all season tires so im sure you can cut those low times. (they also have a similar setup)
I set it up at work before the Evo vs Sti shoot-out and had my fastest ever my first time out on my stock turbo.
Last edited by vwjeff; Sep 11, 2007 at 01:27 PM.
that's interesting. i highly doubt i'll click a 1.5 on my 35r but much props to you
Well maybe, not sure how accurate the 1/8th ET is since the 1/8th mph wasn't working. I can tell you that I wasn't as fast shifting as I usually NLTS the 2-3 and 3-4 shift but I didn't on this run. Might have made a little difference.
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