It's most likely the clutch switch, which is probably still engaged slightly when I get back on the gas. I shift extremely fast, and it's all one fluid motion, so the time that my clutch is in and out is very quick. I'm back in gear and going before my foot is all the way off the clutch pedal.

Actually, it causes even more problems when daily driving and heel-toeing. I can't stand that feature, because it messes things up in so many scenarios for me the way my car sits now.

 

Yeah, you are just confused. DDs are well-known to be pretty much the lowest-reading out there. There are many MDs configured to read like Dynojets, but you can't do that with a DD. The only thing you can do is manually choose the CF. Unfortunately, some places will apply a built-in CF just to make it look like a Dynojet, since customers mostly don't know the difference.

Look at all the results in the Vishnu forum. There are tons of examples there. All the dynosheets say "DynoDynamics" but nothing to do with the word "dynapack."

Locally, I put down 300whp uncorrected on a Dynojet, and then I put down 262whp uncorrected on this DynoDynamics. That's about a 14% difference raw. There is typically a 15% difference between DJs and DDs. You just haven't studied dyno results enough!

I think your MPH is freaking awesome for the elevation and whp you have. I look at Dyno Dynamics almost all the time, so you are doing well.

I'm not sure it's that cut and dry. I was launching at 7k and was not spinning. My 330's were absolutely nasty, and I shift to 2nd before the 60'. My inflated traps mask the driving that is occurring here. You'd have to read my trap speed analysis thread (part 2) to know what I'm talking about. However, you know how DDs read, and you know that 325whp does not equal 119mph traps. 116-117s are much more likely and match my 60'/shifting.

 

oh i'm an pretty decent shifter myself. the reason i bring up the ingnition cut/retard time is because you didn't mention a brief return to power and then bog in succession immediately following a shift. that would be indicative of clutch switch adjustment problem, as this happens to me often daily driving. scared the begeez out of me the first time it happened as i though something blew. however, if you just have too long of an ignition cut/retard period you can very well outshift it and be left waiting for it to time out even after releasing the clutch. you would just experience a bog and not a power then bog in this scenario. i'm sure you'll figure it out though.

 

is this your exact tyre Nitto NT555R, and what would be a good price for them?

 

I won't be figuring it out any time soon, because as soon as I completely removed it, my times increased dramatically due to my shifting returning to its normal self. Here's an in-car vid of my NLTS without the patch:

http://bagelbitez.com/dcevoclub/Warrtalon/12.30.mpg

I wasn't able to do anything close to that with the NLTS mod active in the ECU. This is last week doing 11.69 with an out-of-car vid:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HxEOG50ckMs

 

Yes. They are $155/ea at Discount Tire Direct, so I got them at the Discount Tire store near my house for $152/ea, but I had to pay tax, though I got lifetime rotation/balancing plus warranty. I prefer to do it that way, but I always show them the Discount Tire Direct price to get them to price match.

 

You suck. I think your car sucks and you need to quit driving your car and come over here to Pennsylvania and drive my car to see what it can do.... haha

 

oh hell yeah, nice! for sure if you can ntls without needing the ignition cut then it amounts to the same thing since the object is to avoid having the throttle body slam shut and build boost back up in the next gear. some setups can't take that extra little bump in rpm between gears that occurs without the cut and you get locked out of the next gear. and there always is that little less stress on the drivetrain with the cut.

 

By the way, great driving!!

 

Yeah, since I have to shift around 6500rpm, there are no issues. My rpm doesn't have time to go up much unless I miss the shift, which does happen sometimes and is the part that I probably need most from the patch.

 

i'm really killing this thread tonight. when you say you have to shift at 6500rpm is that because your torque has fallen off to the point where you are no longer accelerating at good rate, or due to calculations done with your gearing for optimal shift point? same effect in both cases but different causes. the reason i ask becuase it has always puzzled me with these guys wringing the green and other small turbos out to 8K in most gears but they still do awesome times.

 

Good question - look at my dynograph and consider that I drop around 1500rpm after a shift. I keep myself right in the fattest part of the HP curve so that my avg HP in each gear is maximized. Notice I'm down almost 40whp by 7k rpm, which is where I shifted at sea level before moving here. The stock turbo loses a lot of efficiency, so the powerband moves left while losing spool at such high altitude:



(The numbers on the chart reflect a 1.13 CF)

I'm in 4th right after the 330' and just stay in 4th the whole way. I forgot that this would change with my 245/45s, so I didn't raise my shift point. I might do that now, since my gearing is made taller by the DRs and thus may move my powerband to the right a little. I don't have a dyno chart with the 245/45s - only 255/40s.

 

In drag racing, torque only comes into play during the first gear or two. From there it is all about horsepower. So, your shift point in 3-5 will have to do more with your horsepower power curve than your torque.

 

HP is determined by torque, but yes, you optimize for the highest avg HP, not the highest avg TQ.

 

Right right. In laymen's terms, torque gets you out of the hole and horsepower gets you down the track.