Suspension setup
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Evolving Member
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Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 426
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From: greenville, sc
Suspension setup
I am trying to lower my 60' and I wonder if my suspension is killing my launches.
I have a set of Megan street coilovers, they have 32 adjustable settings and they are set at 9 very stiff. How do you guys set your coilovers for drag racing? I am pretty sure that I need to encourage weight transfer.
TY
I have a set of Megan street coilovers, they have 32 adjustable settings and they are set at 9 very stiff. How do you guys set your coilovers for drag racing? I am pretty sure that I need to encourage weight transfer.
Features:
- Spring Rates: 8kg Front and 6kg Rear
- 32 Levels of Adjustable Damper
- Pillow Ball Upper Mounts.
- Rubber Dust Covers.
- Adjustable Ride Height
- Aggressive Spring Rates
- Single-Cylinder Design
- Aluminum Brackets
32 Levels of Adjustment:
1-8: Suggested for track use.
9-16: Suggested for mountain/aggressive use.
17-32: Suggested for common street use.
- Spring Rates: 8kg Front and 6kg Rear
- 32 Levels of Adjustable Damper
- Pillow Ball Upper Mounts.
- Rubber Dust Covers.
- Adjustable Ride Height
- Aggressive Spring Rates
- Single-Cylinder Design
- Aluminum Brackets
32 Levels of Adjustment:
1-8: Suggested for track use.
9-16: Suggested for mountain/aggressive use.
17-32: Suggested for common street use.
TY
Last edited by juanmedina; Aug 12, 2009 at 01:55 PM.
Here is what I'd do.
1.) Set ride height via corner balance, if it's setup for drag, leave ATLEAST 1.5-2" gap (especially in the rear), do go gangster-squat :P.
2.) Set the alignment for -1.0 front camber, 0 or +1 rear camber, (so that when the car squats on a launch the tyres instead of going massive negative camber and losing contact patch, still has a good sum of contact). Zero toe all around.
3.) Set the tyre pressure to a reasonable amount where you don't spin and you don't bog, (coupled with a proper 2-step RPM for the clutch you're running).
4.) Once you have the corner balance/alignment/tyre pressures taken care of, go ahead and set the dampening at halfway tight all around. Work with what works best for you, ideally you want the rear to squat so leave the rear SLIGHTLY softer than the front. Play with it though to see what works best for YOU.
5.) Once again, play with tyre pressure to optimize '60.
6.) Practice, practice, practice
.
HTH.
1.) Set ride height via corner balance, if it's setup for drag, leave ATLEAST 1.5-2" gap (especially in the rear), do go gangster-squat :P.
2.) Set the alignment for -1.0 front camber, 0 or +1 rear camber, (so that when the car squats on a launch the tyres instead of going massive negative camber and losing contact patch, still has a good sum of contact). Zero toe all around.
3.) Set the tyre pressure to a reasonable amount where you don't spin and you don't bog, (coupled with a proper 2-step RPM for the clutch you're running).
4.) Once you have the corner balance/alignment/tyre pressures taken care of, go ahead and set the dampening at halfway tight all around. Work with what works best for you, ideally you want the rear to squat so leave the rear SLIGHTLY softer than the front. Play with it though to see what works best for YOU.
5.) Once again, play with tyre pressure to optimize '60.
6.) Practice, practice, practice
.HTH
.
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 426
Likes: 0
From: greenville, sc
Here is what I'd do.
1.) Set ride height via corner balance, if it's setup for drag, leave ATLEAST 1.5-2" gap (especially in the rear), do go gangster-squat :P.
2.) Set the alignment for -1.0 front camber, 0 or +1 rear camber, (so that when the car squats on a launch the tyres instead of going massive negative camber and losing contact patch, still has a good sum of contact). Zero toe all around.
3.) Set the tyre pressure to a reasonable amount where you don't spin and you don't bog, (coupled with a proper 2-step RPM for the clutch you're running).
4.) Once you have the corner balance/alignment/tyre pressures taken care of, go ahead and set the dampening at halfway tight all around. Work with what works best for you, ideally you want the rear to squat so leave the rear SLIGHTLY softer than the front. Play with it though to see what works best for YOU.
5.) Once again, play with tyre pressure to optimize '60.
6.) Practice, practice, practice.
HTH.
1.) Set ride height via corner balance, if it's setup for drag, leave ATLEAST 1.5-2" gap (especially in the rear), do go gangster-squat :P.
2.) Set the alignment for -1.0 front camber, 0 or +1 rear camber, (so that when the car squats on a launch the tyres instead of going massive negative camber and losing contact patch, still has a good sum of contact). Zero toe all around.
3.) Set the tyre pressure to a reasonable amount where you don't spin and you don't bog, (coupled with a proper 2-step RPM for the clutch you're running).
4.) Once you have the corner balance/alignment/tyre pressures taken care of, go ahead and set the dampening at halfway tight all around. Work with what works best for you, ideally you want the rear to squat so leave the rear SLIGHTLY softer than the front. Play with it though to see what works best for YOU.
5.) Once again, play with tyre pressure to optimize '60.
6.) Practice, practice, practice
.HTH
.
I will back to the track by the end of the month looking to get into the 11s with my full interior 330whp 2800lbs subaru WRX
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