Cages NHRA Cert?
sorry don't get the web lingo there
just building another fast evo that see's street duty almost everyday. want it to be safe for myself and my familly and be built to a higher level than some that I have seen running the same e.t.'s
i'll probably post a thread when the cage is done, should be pretty cool stuff but may be a little extreme for some.
just building another fast evo that see's street duty almost everyday. want it to be safe for myself and my familly and be built to a higher level than some that I have seen running the same e.t.'si'll probably post a thread when the cage is done, should be pretty cool stuff but may be a little extreme for some.
That being said. Just to have a car certified costs around $200 if memory serves me correct and it has to be perfect. There are so many requirements you wouldnt believe it. Then if the track is that hard on tech you need to do the research on seatbelts, seats, etc. Things like if you are running an aftermarket seat if its not certified it needs to be bolted to the cage. Seatbelt mounts need to be in proper locations. Its not weld a 6 point in and be done... The work is extensive... Not trying to be a dk, just trying to give you some insight to what your getting yourself into. Resale is a major issue as well...
And this is what it looks like when you pay thousands of dollars to have it done right and its a fully certified NHRA cage. If your going to do it, you better do it right... Most people usedto charge $150 a point for refrence on cost. The cost of material has gone up since then so it may fluctuate... The front halo is also another consideration. If your gonna go in and tear the interior out to do the cage you might as well do the front so you are certified for 8.50. A 6 point is very limiting... I'd have to do a quick check but I believe the cutoff is 9.99. Man its been awhile since I've been in the rule book. But if you want to run 9's you better reed the book to be safe so you dont find yourself redoing stuff...


Last edited by Most-Wanted; May 9, 2010 at 01:45 PM.
Oh yeah been going through the rulebook and making calls for sure
the cage deff is gonna be a big PITA but I am spending the time and research to do it the right way.
I like how the rear bars route in your pics, do you have any of the trunk mounting? If you would PM me any pics ya have that would be good to show my fab guy.
The car isn't going to be daily transportation for the kids, just an ocasional romp around town or to the store, just like the idea of the rear seat staying in for a "street" appearance. Interior is coming apart as needed and front bars are going through the dash as needed for certs. There are a couple new rules reguarding cages that came out this year as well about seat mounting and belts also.
Thanks for the input Most-Wanted that build was a monster! It inspired my build for sure!
the cage deff is gonna be a big PITA but I am spending the time and research to do it the right way. I like how the rear bars route in your pics, do you have any of the trunk mounting? If you would PM me any pics ya have that would be good to show my fab guy.
The car isn't going to be daily transportation for the kids, just an ocasional romp around town or to the store, just like the idea of the rear seat staying in for a "street" appearance. Interior is coming apart as needed and front bars are going through the dash as needed for certs. There are a couple new rules reguarding cages that came out this year as well about seat mounting and belts also.
Thanks for the input Most-Wanted that build was a monster! It inspired my build for sure!
Just to add and remind others it's not only the 9.99 to be aware of but also a trap speed greater than 135 mph when considering a full cert'd 8.50 cage 
Brian's car is a perfect example of quality work that's necessary to pass inspection KUDOS again Brian!
FYI it may be worth contacting you local NHRA official that will do the certification as i have heard news that in order to mount the "D" bars properly you must run a horizontal bar connecting the lower bars of the main hoop and then have the "D" bars mounted to it rather than a 6x6 plate on the floor board.
I have yet to complete the remainder of the cage for my car as i am still unsure about going further w/ this chassis.
Here's a pic of my trunk bars:

Brian's car is a perfect example of quality work that's necessary to pass inspection KUDOS again Brian!
FYI it may be worth contacting you local NHRA official that will do the certification as i have heard news that in order to mount the "D" bars properly you must run a horizontal bar connecting the lower bars of the main hoop and then have the "D" bars mounted to it rather than a 6x6 plate on the floor board.
I have yet to complete the remainder of the cage for my car as i am still unsure about going further w/ this chassis.
Here's a pic of my trunk bars:
Yeah it's a long process for sure
but I want to run the car a lot so I'll do what I have to do. This car is opening a lot of eyes at my local track, people think it insane that a 4cyl car thats basically stock can run with their "built" race cars
just wait untill the prepped engine and the new turbo go on!
Building Evo's is a lot different than building Camaro's and Mustang's for sure!
but I want to run the car a lot so I'll do what I have to do. This car is opening a lot of eyes at my local track, people think it insane that a 4cyl car thats basically stock can run with their "built" race cars
just wait untill the prepped engine and the new turbo go on!Building Evo's is a lot different than building Camaro's and Mustang's for sure!
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