Yeah, I knew what you were referring to. Regardless, even on my worst trap, I gained a little over 24 mph on the last run. Sure, its down from the 29-30mph I had on the prior runs, but its still within the typical range that you stated. Could have been that I just ran out of track as it was my lowest ET.

I really do appreciate the help guys, bringing my compressor the next time I hit the track.

 

I see your also driving a MR, that has some to do with it also. Something with having to shift to 5th or so ive heard.

 

anti-lag or asl and nlts are two different things the first is anti-lag system.

When the driver lifts his foot from the gas pedal the ignition timing is altered with sometimes 40° or more of delay (retard) and the intake air and fuel supply mixture is made richer. The inlet butterfly is kept slightly open or an air injector, bypassing the inlet butterfly, is used to maintain air supply to the engine. This results in air/fuel mixture that keeps getting in the combustion chambers when the driver no longer accelerates. The ignition being severely delayed, the air/fuel mixture reaches the exhaust tubes mostly unburned. When the spark plug fires, the exhaust valve is starting to open due to the ignition delay mentioned above. Additionally, the exhaust temperature being extremely high, the unburned fuel explodes at the contact of the exhaust tubes. Luckily the turbo sits right there and the explosion keeps it turning (otherwise it would slow down since its intake, the exhaust gases, is cut-off). The effect is vastly lower response times.
secondly the

NLTS- Meaning you don't have to take your foot of the gas to shift because as soon as the clutch pedal is pressed in, the RPMs fall to the predetermined point set in your ecu even with the gas pedal to the floor. takes a while to get usied to but it helps out
both of these options have a positive and negitive effects,but its for you to decide weather or not to use theses.

 

perfect practice makes perfect imo but try those options out and let us know how it helped you

 

I thought NLTS kept the RPM stable wherever the RPM happened to be when you engaged the clutch pedal? I didn't know it dropped down to a pre-determined RPM. I thought it just dropped in RPM after releasing the clutch pedal and the clutch re-engages into the next gear. Good info.

 

No, I've got the best kind of MR. An MR with a built shep 5 spd and exedy twin. I have just been winding out 4th gear to about 8krpm.

Good info on the anti lag. I have tephra 7, but I don't know if that comes on it or not.

 

consistan 1.67's on street tires @ 19~20psi. best yet 1.62

 

I run R1R's on my Evo X. Best I have done is a 1.78 60', and that was luck as I haven't been able to repeat it. The X's are slightly heavier which doesn't help either...

Anyway, I run my tires at 22psi and still spin with a 6K 2step. I have an Exedy Twin which is great, but need to get used to launching with it. It grabs like no other.

 

not to be thread jacking or anything, but should you launch off ur two-step on a track with street tires and a stock turbo set up??? mine for instance is set at 5500 which is lower than what u all stated but i dont spin tires

 

You dont need a "program" to NLS...On my car, i will flat shift it(AKA not letting off the gas) without anything to hold my RPM where it needs to be. I shift at 8k, so i just hit the clutch at 7800, and shift fast enough that the clutch is back out before do 8k, and off i go. Just gotta be quick.

Seems your spinning is killing you, if you have coilovers, you could also try to put them on stiff, keep those tires on the track!

 

Depends on the track also. My best run was at a slippery track and was launching my car around 3500-4k. I went to a good track and my 6k 2step wasn't enough.
Your trap with quick shift should be low/mid 11s.
Watch my in car video. Also shows how I don't dump the clutch-ever.

 

Don't you want a softer setting/suspension so the car can squat.

I have the Tein s-techs and they are perfect for launching.

 

Too stiff of a suspension will promote wheelhop... something you don't want. You want the suspension to absorb the impact. It's a delicate balance. Camber adjustments can be very helpful too for launches. The rear will squat, causing greater negative camber and the front lifts causing greater positive camber...both resulting in less contact area. You'd have to read up on what some of the seasoned guys use for camber settings though. My guess would be to start with -2deg front/-1deg rear maybe?

My launching recommendations would be:
Street tire pressure: 21 to 23psi (Try 1psi more in rear to help with squatting)
Stationary Rev Limiter: 5.7-6k

Tire choice is important! If your tire isn't a soft compound, you'll have to mess with everything much more to cut decent times (though you still can). With harder compund all-season tires, you will get better traction with more treadlife on the tire. The less treadlife you have left, the stiffer they become. The tread thickness acts kind of like a rebound area and will twist and contourt to try like hell to keep on gripping. As the tread thickness diminishes, so does your rebound effect and the tire will break loose easier. You either want full grip or a decent spin. Its the gray area in between the two where you get wheelhop and thats like a jack hammer having its way with your drivetrain.

A lot of people run snow tires because of their softer compound, low cost and can cut great 60' times but be warned that they are not intended for high speeds over 80mph usually.

I prefer to avoid the waterbox and go around it and do a quick burnout just to break the tires loose for a few fast rotations to dislodge any pebbles/rocks from the tires but this is optional.

Always preload the drivetrain by depressing the clutch pedal, engaging the stationary rev limiter and then letting out the clutch to the point where the car 'just' wants to start to creep forward so there is no slack in the clutch pedals travel or the drivetrain gears.

I generally try to not have rpm drop more than 1k rpm from my stationary rev limit as I slip the clutch. Below is most-wanted's in-car video on YouTube and is a good example of how quickly this 'slip' needs to be. He launches at about 6k and slips the clutch but never goes below 5-5.5k during his slip.

http://m.youtube.com/index?desktop_u...&v=dkOaJmIuXdQ

As for shift points, that depends on your power curve but the average decently tuned stock turbo will probably benefit from 7k rpm as a starting point. Once you can get 'consistent' 60' times every time, then try lowering/raising your shift point in 300rpm increments to see if you results improve. You gotta take the 60' time out of the equation first though. If your 60' times are all over the place you can't be certain your shift point alterations have helped or hurt.

I hope I helped.