Brake Fade
Ive felt both, and neither are good. I consider brake fade to be when the pads just dont respond well. the brake pedal stays firm, but it takes a lot of extra leg effort to slow the car. Boiled fluid is when the pedal goes soft and then goes to the floor. Like said, this is due to the moisture that has saturated the brake fluid boiling and the gas becoming compressible. Brake fade will go away after a relatively short period of time, basically as soon as the pad face returns to a normal temperature. When I boiled the fluid, it took at least an hour of sitting for my pedal to return to normal. I would have to pump the brakes several times just to get a little stopping power.
ps- I had basically the same setup, hawk pads and old fluid. Definitely get that fluid changed ASAP, and then see if the same things happens.
ps- I had basically the same setup, hawk pads and old fluid. Definitely get that fluid changed ASAP, and then see if the same things happens.
Best to cruise around a couple of minutes and let them cool without using them. If you think they still may be hot, try to coast to a stop and use your E-brake a little if needed. The Evo's E-brake is a separate mechanical drum brake that will not cause material deposits on the rotors.
I had some major fade on Friday at PIR (Portland raceway) that was from brake fluid boiling. The brakes gave me about 1/2 a lap warning with the 'butter' feel, then nothing, the brake pedal touched the carpet not slowing the car down. Luckily I was expecting it though from the progressive 'spongy' feeling. Braking harder will stop the car when fade starts creeping but you'd better chill out at that point, 1/2 a lap is about 1.125 miles...
So, lesson learned. Upgrade the pads, and without a doubt change brake fluid. I went with AP Racing 600, and Ferodo DS-3000's.
So, lesson learned. Upgrade the pads, and without a doubt change brake fluid. I went with AP Racing 600, and Ferodo DS-3000's.
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