So, I am trying to mentally train myself to launch with a staging brake. Correct me if I am wrong, but the process should go as follows, correct?

1. Pre-stage to 1 yellow
2. Pull the staging handle
3. With the car in 1st, start to let out the clutch until it bites (this should pull the car forward enough to stage)
4. Go WOT, release the clutch, and the staging brake handle all at the same time
5. ???
6. Profit

Am I missing anything, or doing it wrong? In theory (and reading from other people's success), this should severely decrease the chances of drivetrain failure since the teeth, driveshaft, and axles should all be pre-loaded at the point of fully releasing the clutch. I am sure this is going to put some crazy heat into the clutch, but that is what cool down time is for.

Lend me your experiences and better techniques please!

Also, for our cars, would the staging brake better be suited on the front brakes, or will the rear brakes suffice?




--mark

 

Wont an E brake do the same thing?

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dTW-bnUhidE

0.45 min!

 

sounds about right, but i dont do full trhottle . OF course im not a drag racer. It helps on hill start or get a right grip on loose surface. Like rain - gravel or snow etc.
But make sure you will not get the willwood brake master cylinder with it. Get a CNC/ i think that one on the picture you put it up/ or Tilton instead. Also you need a brake proportional valve, to make it official .
Rob

 

yes, but the hydraulic set up is better then a cable one.

 

I don't have an E-brake.

I don't have an E-brake.

No proportioning valve is needed.



I am asking how to launch, does anyone have have any experience with a staging brake, not your ebrake. I know there are at least a handful of cars on the site that have CNC brakes, so it would be cool to see them chime in

--mark

 

bump, I am actually looking into the same thing. I heard CNC is the one to go with. And what do you mean to make it official? As in, track legal?

 

since you actually delete the cable system with a drum brake set up on the rear,there for you will bleed in or attach to the stock brake lines in the rear disc brake set up. The brake proportional system will let you adjust the pressure between the front and the rear . Its an easy install-cheap, and not just beneficial in the newly made set up you have, also is a great help on track days if you know what you doing with it.
Makes it official because the hydraulic set up what i ever used or i saw all had a brake proportional valve. The reason is cheap easy install and since you there is make a lot of sense to do it. It is actually can be a big help.
its a little red handle on the right from the shifter:


Rob

 

Its real easy to launch with the stage brake. If you watch the middle to the end of this video it will show a few different angles from inside the car and you can see how it works.


http://vimeo.com/17340019

Keith

 

Pats filming skills ftw!!

 

I did a little more research on my option. Since my car is essentially drag but still streetable I am not going to be removing my passenger seat so the staging brake won't have a lot of options to be placed. Another option is the millions of kits out there for line locks. They sell kits that can even engage through a replacement shiftknob with the button on it, and if you're afraid of hitting it on a normal day you can put a master switch, for completing the circuit, with the cockpit control cover hiding it.

 

Any more info on this? Seems like a good way to launch. Everything being pre-loaded = less chances of drive line breaking. Right?

 

yes that is the bigger half of the story.

 

good info here

 

That Youtube vid of shawna's full weight evo is AWESOME! Does anyone know if that launching technique works on a stock / lightly modified X?