Well I'm going to need a reflash here in the near future and I was just wondering if there is anything else you might suggest I add before getting it done. I am going to wait until later in the summer to add alky so other then that. My current mods are in my sig, here is what is being added:
Buscher UICP and LICP
Buscher Deluxe Intercooler
GSC 272/264 cams
10.5 Hotside
Ebay 02 housing
ARP headstuds

Thanks for any advice. BTW any guesses on power output?

 

Looks good to me!! Enjoy it!

 

bov?

 

Forge RS Bov
Ported/coated stock exhaust manifold
Port/Coat that 10.5 hotside
Coat the Ebay o2

Otherwise, you're golden. Even if you don't do the porting/coating, at least do the BOV unless you already have one.

I'd say 340-350whp on a Dynojet.

Here's what a local 03 did with similar mods on one of our local Dynojets:

Before mods:
Forge UNOS MBC
HKS Intake (filter only)
Catless TBE

After mods added since first dyno:
GSC 272i/264e Cams
10.5 hotside
Ebay Manifold
Ebay o2
Custom Dynoflash



Btw, notice he got the same GSC setup as you, and that is the setup I'm receiving in the mail from GSC in a few days...

 

Well the Buscher UICP has the 1G BOV so it is alittle better. I figured I'd wait until I got the alky and running 26-27lbs to get the Forge.

Hadn't thought about the mani.

Buscher is coating the o2 housing.

How much of a difference is there in coating the 10.5? Thanks guys.

BTW: Warrtalon did I read somewhere that you are moving out west? Just thought that I saw that somewhere.

 

Yes, I close on my house here in DC on the 31st of January, at which point we make our 3-day trip to Colorado Springs in order to close and move into our house there.

It's hard to say exactly how much of a difference there is when coating just the 10.5, because what you really want to do is coat all of the exhaust parts in that area. I don't imagine coating one without the other is as effective, but if you coat the mani/turbine/02, then you have complete coverage as far as keeping the heat inside the exhaust. My engine bay barely even gets warm anymore - you have to put your hand close to the manifold (no heat shield, btw) to even feel warmth unlike before when it used to be like an oven in there.

 

Alky?

 

Not yet...

 

Al, do you have any suggestions for mods that might need a flash that would be benificial right now. Im going to get ready to send off my CPU in the next couple weeks.

Al or Warr do you think that I would need to crush my 1G BOV or will it hold 22psi ok?

 

I am not Al or Warr, but my uncrushed 1G valve held 22 psi just fine

 

You need to crush it to hold 22psi. I don't know why people say it holds 22psi uncrushed fine, because it just doesn't. We have been crushing those damn 1g BOVs since the early 90s, because the 1g only came with 11psi from the factory. The 1g BOV by no means could hold 20+psi without leaking. when tested with a pressure gun, it opens at 16psi or so uncrushed and 20-21psi crushed. That's still far better than the stock Evo plastic BOV, which opened for me at 13psi. Most of the time people say "it held XX psi fine," but they are just referring to the fact that they run XX psi on a daily basis and everything seems fine. It's not until you take it off and test it, pressure test the whole boost system, or try a stronger BOV and test the difference at the drag strip that you realize the 1g uncrushed doesn't hold as well as you think.

I'd crush it if I were you, and I believe Al would say the same thing, since he crushed just about every Evo IX DV during his tuning trip here, and that one is stronger than the 1G already while uncrushed...

 

....or just buy a Forge RS

 

How do you crush the BOV? I did a quick search and couldn't come up with a how to for it. It seems like pretty much everyone has done it with good results so thats probably what I will do until I get the Forge and alky.

 

Put it in a vise and crush the top down until the nipple is close to the ledge, but don't go far enough to bend the nipple. This compresses the spring inside.

 

Thanks