What do you guys think? or .
I like the way the car pulls, I was just a little dissapointed by the numbers. Al says the dynapack isn't that great which I didn't know. I'm taking it to the track on Thursday to see if I can best my 13.6 which was only my second try down the track in the EVO.

Al said if I don't like the results just send the ECU back and of course he'll flash it back to normal.

First dyno run with AMS catback, K&N drop in, MBC set at 19 psi, 94 octane.



After dynoflash. Dyno with AMS turbo back exhaust with high flow cat, walbro fuel pump, K&N drop in, MBC set at 20psi, 94 octane.

 

As i told you on the phone - on the Dyno pak - a LOT depends on how the operator makes the various settings and how long they wait between pulls

Also - it seems this particular dyno pak has the jerky rear wheel oscilation going on which gives you that up and down dynamic in the lower rpms area

In any event - you have cut off the section of the dyno sheets which gives all the revelant dats such as lengnth of pull, gear ratio, weight - etc etc - all of which greatly effect the results

I do not have enough epxerience on Dyno pak dynos to really tell you what to expect or not to expect - your dyno operator whould know more about how stock evos and evos with mods base lin on that particular dyno

The reason why we prefer DYNO JET is because they are all uniform and the numbers can not be adjusted by the operator

I see you have roughtly a 20 whp gain with the through the mail reflash and a down pipe - which is prob a bit lower than we would like - BUT - it is possible that temprature and climatic conditions may have played a part

As I told you on the phone - if you are disatisfied with the product - just send it back within the two week period for a full refund minus shipping costs

 

We usually see about 280- 290 whp with the Dyno Jet on those mods - but on a dyno pak I am at a loss !

 

I have to say a dynopack is a POS and I will never put my car on 1 again.

 

I ahve to agree with you there. I did a dyno day at a shop that had one. By the end of the day I had basically figured out how to manipulate the length of pull and gear ratio settinsg to the point that I could get the dyno sheets to say what ever I wanted

In this case - the crucial data has been omitted from the posting here - it appears in boxes just below the dyno sheet

What is most relevant is the A - B data is based upon the same settings on the dyno and that the relative temps and humidity are unchanged

temprature changes can make huge differnces

In any event - the customer did pick up 20 whp and 20 ft lbs

The bottom line is IF he is not happy - just send it back pronto and we will flash you back to stock and issue a refund

Finally - for Mr. Invoice - how does the car feel when you are driving it on the road ?

 

really good for a mail-in flash

 

I edited the picture, don't know if this will even provide anymore info.

Could I have gotton a bad flash Al? Could you flash it again, or does it even matter. Don't get me wrong, I like the way it feels and the "wife dyno" reads "weeeeeee!"

 

Juding by the a/f ratio plot - it seems you ar generally in the 11 - 11.25 /1 a/f ratio area which is the target we shoot for in our through the mail flashes - - it does shoot up to 11.5 torwards the end of the pull -but that is OK as its still within specs

Its hard to judge the smoothness of the pulls as the dyno paks have the aforementioned rear axel oscilation issue on evos and never really dyno super smooth on evos

As for your timing - as we already discussed - I questioned the accuracuy of the loading on the dyno and wanted you to log the ignition timing on the street and report back to me - which i am still waiting to hear back on - you should call me or email when you have that data

The low reported timing could have been caused by several factors including improper dyno settings - not enough tiem between pulls - low air flow through the raditor and / or bad gas

Thats why i really need your reported road driven timing figures to tell the real story on your car

The 5 - 8 degree report is way to low and tells me your missing some power due to dyno method used

I don;t think really i want to change anything - the flash is within the range of what I am confortable sending out throuh the mail - - when we do through the mail tuning we are looking for a healthy 20 ft lb gain and 20 whp - while keeping super conseravtive and safe settings which wont blow up any engines

IF you are looking to break dyno records - you need our full custom tune

You should also consider my suggestion to get a $350 custom tune upgade when I come to Buschur in August

 

with those same mods except with test pipe and buschur FMIC, Al was able to tune my car in the HOT weather at pruven and it put down 303awhp/303 torque. In the winter my car without the FMIC/and walbro pump my car put down 310awhp/294 torque. So after installing the walbro pump I wanted another tune because I def. felt the decrease in power with the extra fuel and given the hot weather, I was happy as hell. The car runs HELLA smoother than before the tune this past tuesday and pulls really hard.

So bottom line, for a mail in flash.....I would be happy with those results.

 

You will probably be hearing from me sometime soon about this.

 

On more point I just noticed looking over the dyno sheet - they cut off the pull at 6500 rpms - right as the power band was rising on the way UP. It is possible that t could have picked up another 5 whp or so if they had held out the run till 7,000 or even 7,200