Hey Al, i went to the track for the first time since I got the $200 Dynoflash and felt the car should have done a little better. Maybe Im wrong so I'll let you tell me. My mods are: Dynoflash, 3" Catless Helix Turboback, K&N cone filter, 255 walboro, MBC, and SAFC. My first run was at 20-21 psi on pump gas and went 13.09@104. Then I made 2 runs on 110 race gas and turned the boost up to 23 and went -2% across the board on the AFC and only went a best of 12.93@105. Not terrible times, but I thought the car should have done better. I keep seeing other people post with less mods and no Dynoflash running the same or better MPH. My 60 fts are in the mid 1.7s. I was shifting it around 7300-7500, is this maybe too high? I want to know if my car should be doing better then it is with these mods because I think it should be. Let me know what you think, thanks.

 

Launching at 4krpm,maybe improve.

 

Whats your elevation? I had similar mods and ran a 12.86@105.5 at 5800ft Elevation.

 

Thanks for your post.

I have a few thoughts about your results.

Some people assume that my products are geared towards drag racing applications becuase I am someone who enjoys drag racing and becuase my car does a LOT OF DRAG RACING. In fact, my through the mail Fireball Reflash is designed more for general use and all around driving.

First - let me say that in drag racing track conditions and weather play a huge part in the results. Also - some drivers shift a lot faster than others. For example - Cut Brown laid down a world record 11.50 in his Evo 8 at the DSM shootout last week with stock turbo - no one else could get anywhere near that time - he is just a great driver. So while the strip is helpful - its hardly a scientific test of a power ban.

I think a lot of people do not understand the main PURPOSE and intention of my products.

The concept of the $199.99 through the mail reflash is to provide a tuning solution which will get your car tuned out for the mods you have - e.g. running smoothly and with a good "feeling" power band and with safe a/f and ign timing settings.

The wonder of the $199.99 reflash is that I can give you a really good running evo basically no matter what combination of parts you choose - be it intakes - cams - injectors - etc etc etc. For most of my customers - without the through the mail reflash they would be stuck usuing piggy back type devices and paying hundreds of dollars for dyno tuning with a wide band 02 sesnor.

My main imortant goals for the through the mail Dyno Flash are

1 - Smooth power band

2 - Pulls hard to red line

3 - More low end trq

4 - SAFE settings and 100% reliability and durability

5 - Improved "feel" of the car

6 - At least 20 whp gains

7 - Simple easy install with no wire cutting or hassel


We DO NOT tune the $199.99 reflash to optimize 1/4 mile performance - the area of the power band you drag race on is the 5500 - 7500 section and we only provide 20 whp gains in that area. It is important to note that the 5500 - 6000 rpms area of the power band is a prime area for detonation activity as that is where peak cylinder pressure occures. We purposely make out through the mail tunes SUPER conservative in that area to avoid ANY trace of detonation which will result in the pulling of timing by the ecu and a rough power band.

20 whp gains are NOT going to turn your Evo into a record setting drag monster.

Yes - it will be faster - more fun to drive and tuned within proper parameters. That does not mean you are going to pick up a full second in the 1/4 mile.

IF YOU WANT to focus on drag performance - I can do that for you. However - you will need the full custom tune upgrade option- $350 over what you already spent. With that we can get another 15 or so whp out of your car up top and then we can dial in some SAFC settngs for you that will get the car making a lot more power on race fuel. It is not safe to tune for absolute maximum perfromance on a through the mail reflash. We pride ourselves on out amazing saftey and reliability record - with over 800 reflashed Evo 8 's out there you do NOT hear about people having any problems with our product.

To sumarize - I am not comfortable giving you a more agressive tune on your car without doing a full custom tune upgrade to make sure everything is working properly.

If you are not satisfied with your results - simply send the ecu back for a full refund.

 

The elevation is way closer to sea level then that. Runs were made at Englishtown Raceway in NJ. So if thats the case I def should have run better. Maybe it was the weather, it was very humid out, and around 75 degrees. I also felt like the stock clutch was slipping too much on the launch. I was launching it around 5000 rpms and then slipping it out of the hole slightly, I've used this technique in the past on my awd DSM with great results, but this was also with an upgraded clutch unlike my Evo.

Al, as far as the tune not being optimized for drag racing I understand what your saying about it being more all around, but all Im saying is that there are many people without any ECU mods at all running the same as I am, so thats why I was wondering about the 20 whp gain. I did not expect it to drop a full second in the 1/4 mile of course, Im no stranger to drag racing, I DID expect however to be running better then cars WITHOUT a reflashed ECU and the SAME mods. I'm going to run a boost leak test soon to see if that might have been an issue.

I know driving plays a big part, so does conditions, etc. I feel I am pretty good at drag race driving, at least compared to the other Evos that were at the track that day. i was getting 1.75 60 fts while many of them were getting them in the 2.0's cause they dont know how to launch and running high 13s at 104 mph. My mph and ET are more closely matched, so its the HP that is down, not so much the driving. Im acutally more concerned about the MPH being only 105 because MPH is a much better indication of HP. I'll try to get back to the track in more ideal condtions and see what happens, I hope to do a clutch by then so I'm thinking that will also help.

Just want to know, what would you consider a safe fuel reduction with the dynoflash on my SAFC while running race gas? Should I be removing more up top or in the mid range, or the same across? I only went with -2% across this time cause I didnt want to get it too far away from your tune. The other thing are the shift points, around where on the dyno sheets you have for the mail flash with my mods is peak HP, meaning what RPM is best to shift at with your tune? Thanks again.

 

If you are able to come to Englishtown - I suggest that you come by our shop - www.pruvenperformance.com and we can throw it on the dyno and test your car and see how the through the mail flash compares to the stock base flash. I will test ot for you for free.

Of course - I would highly recomend you avail yourself of the custom tuning special I have on the 4th of September - $275 for the custom tuned upgrade with your dyno time. If you bring race fuel I can dial in your safc settings at the same time for no extra charge.

 

Al, I would like to come and have you check it out. You flashed it for me in person although it was a "mail" flash, but it seems to be running very rich at wot, i blow alot of black smoke, and friends who drive behind me say it stinks really really bad. I would like to come up, if you are willing to throw it on the dyno at no charge then thats great and thanks alot. I am considering upgrading to a full custom tune for the $275 also. That would include free reflashes afterwards for when I upgrade the parts correct? I think that the current flash in the car now though might be tuned a little too rich. I have a 255 pump, could it be possible you might have mistakenly uploaded a map for a stock pump? When can I come up there and have you check it out? Are you there tomorrow (Sunday)? let me know, thanks.

 

I am at the Nopi race in Atco NJ this weekend

If you want to come by next weekend we are having a Dyno Day at Pruven on Saturday all day - I can test your car on the road with a wideband and if you want custom tuning its $275 that day with your dyno time - special rate

 

Ok sounds good, I will come Saturday

 

It will be fun as there will be many evos on the dyno and lots of evo activity !

 

I think your car with you driving is high 12 second car, not bad at all, but can be improved upon. I read a post recently on this site, of a guy who let somebody else drive his EVO down the strip, the owner and the guy he let drive both had very similiar 60FT (1.76 and 1.75) but the owner best time was a 12.4@111 to the guy he let drive 12.1@113. So the point is that there probably is nothing wrong with your car, and the biggest improvement you can make is on your driving, not saying it sucks, but it can get better. It's more than just the launch, I learned that with my VR4, in which I took nearly a full second off my E.T.s with just one modification, driving experience.

 

You may be at least half right and my driving can always be improved on, but MPH is MPH, The best indication of HP in the quarter mile is you trap speed, ET is all in the driving. There are cars with alot less done running 108 mph. If my ET were say 13.4@105, yes that would be my driving, but 12.9@105 is pretty closely matched for the HP figures. There is definetly something up with my car, it runs pig rich at WOT, hopefully its just a mistake in the flash like I suspect cause I have a 255 pump and I may have a stock pump flash. I wont know until Al checks it I guess.

 

I believe with better shifting, your MPH could also increase, in the example I displayed MPH (along with E.T.) improved from 111MPH to 113MPH, same car, different driver. I believe your car has the potential to run 12.6-12.7@107-108MPH (on race gas). But if you want to be absolutely certain, I think a dyno session wouldn't hurt, and if you have already done this, what did you previously dyno at?

 

Also as I believe was said before, some EVOs just respond better than others, that is just a fact of life, with not just EVOs but all cars. Although, I believe your car as is now is capable of more, I mean it may not run times as fast as others with similiar mods because it may just be a weaker EVO than others. Although it's your car, and I'm sure your knowledge of EVOs is vastily superior to mine, I drive a pathetic Sentra for now, but I would keep open the possibility that maybe nothing is wrong with your car at all, and if you keep messing around with it, you could just make it worst. Anyhow, I hope everything works out for you.

 

Yeah I hear what your saying. There could be a million reasons why, weather, driving, stock clutch slipping, stock bov leaking, etc, etc, who knows. It could be so many unknown causes at this point, but I can say what I know for sure, the car is running very rich and running too rich kills power. So I guess on Saturday I will find out for sure. The car has never been dynoed before.