What tests are you guys having performed on the oil? Are you checking acidity and alcohol content?

 

Its pretty much a standard used motor oil analysis. I had my analysis done at blackstone labs. http://www.blackstone-labs.com/

There are a few places to get your oil analyzed. I chose them because they were the only ones that i could actually contact and talk to a person. Getting test kits was also quite simple. "Oil doc" in this forum can also get you some test kits from an extremely good oil analysis company also. (check the amsoil site)

I am not aware of any lab that test for alcohol in the oil. Although if there were alcohol in the oil I think it would thin out the oil and the viscosity would probably drop which probably be an indicator. When you send in the oil you have to indicate what fuel your running and they take it into account when providing a breakdown of the analysis.

 

that is the rason AMSOIL we came out with the RD Dominator Racing Oil, its designed to hold any hot fuel you can throw at it, however Ethanol when it burns it burns and leaves behind water, anyhow we change our oils very often so you might just get pickier and change it a little earlier,,, it just gives you piece of mind

 

When you shut your engine off the 200+ degree crankcase condenses the water in the air and you get moisture in it no matter what kind of fuel. Its burned off next time you take the car out for 20 minutes or longer. Its not a huge deal. I'm convinced that E85 burns better and is easier on the oil. Alcohols in general atomize better than gasoline so for starters you have a less stratified charge which is more evenly mixed.

Any normal oil regular or synthetic is fine to use. In colder climates you may want to lean towards an oil that flows better at freezing temperatures which is where most synthetics succeed at. An interesting test is to buy a 10w/30 normal oil and a 10w/30 synthetic and put them in the freezer. Test them with a popsicle stick the next day. Hopefully this will lead you to do some research on what the "10w" really means compared to what people think it means.

I also think people change oil too much in their cars. Many people over change engine oil but neglect the drivetrain oils. I guess big oil sees 5 qts vs 1 qt in the rear end, does the math, and markets accordingly.

 

Yes, I prefer Oil Analyzers Inc and use them as they are ISO Accredited and their test facilities are checked every few months for accuracy and quality. For less than $23.00 they are a bargain. I use them for my MotorCycle all the time.

The test reports should include fuel dillution and moisture content. We are finding a lot fewer problems than were originally expected with E85. Even with the E85, you can expect to run 5000 miles on AMSOIL when using the AMSOIL EA Filter.

I pretty much stay with a few oils with AMSOIL, ALL are 100% Synthetic. ATM 10W-30, SSO 0W-30, and the 3 Racing Dominator Oils RD-20, RD-30 and rarely RD-50 in an EVO or Lancer...

Just depends on the build of the engine and how the vehicle is used.

Doc

 

The condensation in the crankcase will make no difference in which fuel you use. Alcohol attracts water at a much greater rate than gasoline and, as Matter of Fact has a fair percentage of water in it when it is made and attracts more as it sits in fuel stations tanks and the tank of your vehicle.

When the engine is running, approximately 1 gallon of water vapor is formed for each gallon of fuel burned. That water when mixed mixed with the burnt fuel, (combustion by-products) gets past the rings and contaminates the oil forming acidity and fuel dillution.

Where most people get the wrong idea and I see it in your post is that "oil is oil" which couldn't be further from the truth. Even when breaking Petroleum, Hydro-Cracked and Synthetics into their own perspective categories, it goes beyond each being alike.

Oil, has 4 Major Functions. Cool, Clean, SEAL and Lubricate. A good Synthetic will always outperform a Peroleum oil in those functions. A True Synthetic Oil, will even do a better job. Sealing the combustion chamber better keeps more of the combustion by-products from contaminating the oil. Which is also where the TBN of the oil comes in as that is what neutrlizes the acidity formed in the oil.

You are dead on with the freezer gig... We use to use that years ago. The Winter Viscosity "W" is measured at 32 Degrees F and regardless of Petroleum or Synthetic will flow at approximately the same rate. Their are going to be minor differences but that is getting into the cSt of the oil..

As the temp drops below 32, a good Synthetic will be able to flow better than a Petroleum as a Petroleum oil is frozen solid at approximately -40 and the cold pour point is above that where an oil such as AMSOIL SSO has a pour point of -60.


Doc

 

But does "W" mean winter weight? Look into it. What is the difference between a 10/30 and a 10W/30.

I feel that all name brand oil meeting the proper specifications is a good quality oil. I feel that they are all extremely good these days. I simply think you can't purchase a bad oil for your car as long as it meets the viscosity requirements of the engine. I also think that people change oil way too often.

 

"W" does mean Winter.... An oil that does not have the "W" such as you spec'd a 10-30 is not the same... That oil would meet the spec's of both oils at operating temp.

The 10W part and the 30 part are measured 2 different ways.. The "W" or Winter weight, is measured at 32 Degrees in a cup and magnetic rod device and the 30, in this case, is measured in a drip cup device at 212 Degrees..

As far as changing oil too frequently... Better too frequently than not often enough. I have some pics of oil from someone that thought "If AMSOIL can go 1 year/25,000 miles, any oil can." Well.. they were wrong and it was quite close to causing a blown engine.. I highly recommend Oil Analysis done by an ISO Accredited Lab. For less than $23.00, It is CHEAP Insurance..

All name brand oils being a quality oil... Not so... Royal Purple, Torco and Lucas 10W-40, are 3 oils that will either break down too soon or start and/or finish out of grade in testing.. Royal Purple's 10W-40 oil shears out of grade in the first sequence of a 3 sequence test.

Doc

 

Doc-

Glad to be an AMSOIL convert.

-E

 

Thanks,

Glad you are too !!

 

Thanks for schooling us, Doc. Lots of good info.

I wish every can of oil had a simple chart on the label that rated the product according to the 4 functions. For example, someone with an older vehicle may be most concerned about SEALING, so they look for an oil rated highest at sealing. Since I'm in Arizona, a high priority for me is COOLING, so I would look for an oil rated highest in cooling.

How does Mobile One stack up in oil tests that you have seen?

 

Jim,

It is just easier to purchase an oil that has the highest overall rating, which is AMSOIL...

As far as Mobil 1.... Which Mobil 1 ? If you are talking Mobil 1 Extended Performance, which is their best oil and made with a PAO Base Stock, That is probably the oil I would run if AMSOIL were not available.

It is getting more difficult as time goes on to tell a good oil from a so-so oil as the manufacturers are now hiding their Technical Data Sheets. That is why AMSOIL posts as many tests as are available... They are known in the Industry as the "King's of Comparison" and if what they posted was not fact, they would have been sued out of busines years ago.

Thanks, Doc

 

thats a great sugestion for the sugestion box,,,,,,

then you need to run our RD oil's Dominator Racing oil, it is very good at sealing the trick is the high content of Zinc and Phosforus, however not good for cat converter, is anyways an off road oil.

we will be doig some testing with it on the dyno very soon, our pick is an evo8 with full bolt ons, we will do 3 base pulls, change oils to dominator, 3 pulls, do the wynn's 3 stage fuels system induction top end cleaner and 3 more pulls we will have a dedicated thread for this

 

Zinc and Phosphorous have absolutely nothing to do with sealing ....


Doc

 

oil doc, i was on the phone with our tech peep @ AMSOIL, and this was one of our conversaions of the advantage Dominator oils have, the zinc and phosforus in the oil helps the rings ad cylynder walls to seal and minimizing blow by, thats only one of the good aspecs of this oil.