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Old Feb 20, 2013, 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by tscompusa
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seems like you can only safely get maybe about 850WHP from a double pumper with -8 feed line and proper injectors and rail. even then the safety part of it is questionable, because you're relying on a pressure switch to kick that 2nd pump on.
Yep, 850 whp on E85 seems like a nice conservative limit for a dual Walbro 255HP setup (punched relief valves) provided that a -6 or -8 AN supply line is used. Based on my testing of a single Walbro 416, a pair of Walbro 416s could easily supply 1000 whp worth of E85. -8 AN line would seem to be mandatory for this setup.
Old Feb 20, 2013, 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Wheatley
You say double bumper but don't specify which pumps. I assume you mean twin modded walbro 255 but figured I'd post so other ppl know.
im referring to twin walbro 255's modded (gss340's) with the big end outlet so you can fit the larger walbro fuel socks.

i think you can get 900whp (dynojet) out of this setup without a boost a pump with larger feedline (-8), but it wouldn't be the most efficient route.

it would be interesting / good info though to know what happens with flow if you just slap a Bosch 044 inline on the feedline with the double pumper.

im taking my chances and going the same route i did before. im reusing my buschur double pumper but i have modified it quite a bit now. its using an fittings on it, and i replaced the wiring harness to the secondary pump + new pumps and new filters & new pressure switch.

I have done so many cars running his double pumper, and it is extremely rare to see problems with it. i think i fried my switch by putting in a piece of metal to turn it on. thats all i can think, because since that day it acted up, and before that, it was flawless for 3-4 years. maybe i damaged the diaphragm or something.
Old Feb 20, 2013, 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by mrfred
Yep, 850 whp on E85 seems like a nice conservative limit for a dual Walbro 255HP setup (punched relief valves) provided that a -6 or -8 AN supply line is used. Based on my testing of a single Walbro 416, a pair of Walbro 416s could easily supply 1000 whp worth of E85. -8 AN line would seem to be mandatory for this setup.
those are actually really easy to put in the housing also. i was really close to putting one as the secondary pump but you did not recommend it. the more i think about it though, i don't think ill need more fuel then what 2 modded walbro 255 are capable of with the .405" ID feedline.

kinsler did make it clear the pumps were not designed for e85/ethanol, but they did say they have never seen one fail specifically due to running ethanol yet.
Old Feb 20, 2013, 07:55 PM
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If you are going for really high boost and 900 whp, dual 255HPs might not cleanly get you there. Dual 416s aren't a bad idea.

A single 044 inline with dual Walbro's would be a bad idea. The 044 tops out at maybe 400 lph at 0 psi of net pressure, so it would be a bottle neck to flow.
Old Feb 21, 2013, 12:52 AM
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Originally Posted by mrfred
If you are going for really high boost and 900 whp, dual 255HPs might not cleanly get you there. Dual 416s aren't a bad idea.

A single 044 inline with dual Walbro's would be a bad idea. The 044 tops out at maybe 400 lph at 0 psi of net pressure, so it would be a bottle neck to flow.
i didnt even think about that, you're right! because the line already has the pressure of 2 walbro 255 goign through it which exceed the pressure of the single bosch 044 so it would do nothing as you already said.

i was thinking in the wrong state of mind i guess when i wrote that. in order to better the flow you must put something inline thats much stronger then the 2 walbros together.

dual 416lph with a boost a pump would be probably nuts
Old Feb 25, 2013, 09:50 PM
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I'm extremely impressed on the 4XX series walbro and E85. On one pump I've seen 640whp on a mustang dyno.
Old Feb 26, 2013, 10:03 PM
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Since we're on the subject, I thought I'd ask why not very many people make their own stainless/aluminum hard lines to help with the pressure drop problem? I've been looking into taking the stock feed/return off and making/bending my own and reinstalling the new lines in place.

I don't see many people doing this on their evo/dsm etc and wondered why. I would like to do this because I'm interested in running a single e85 Wally 400 vs dual 255s for the simple fact I want to keep it simple without a Hobbs switch, and I don't really have the cash to drop on the Buschur unit.
Old Feb 27, 2013, 11:51 AM
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I don't know why ppl would run -8 braided instead of -8 hardline. It's much cheaper and IMO much better looking. I ran my own -6 aluminum hardline and will probably be replacing with -8 stainless when I upgrade to a 6466
Old Feb 27, 2013, 11:52 AM
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I think the cost was $30, its so cheap I don't see why people don't do it just for the sake of making their pumps work easier.
Old Feb 27, 2013, 12:53 PM
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i have a lot of questions for you you lol

how did you route the line?
how did you connect it to the tank and fuel rail?
was the line you got anodized? how does alum. hold up with e85?
where did you get it?
how thick is the tubing?
what did you use to bend it? did you use the factory line as a template?

Id like to to -8an (1/2") feed and -6an (3/8" iirc ) return, so i could run the wally e85 400 pump without overrunning my afpr because of the small fuel lines.
Old Feb 27, 2013, 12:55 PM
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also what was the pressure rating of the line you used? i know aluminum lines are pretty soft...
Old Feb 27, 2013, 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Wheatley
I don't know why ppl would run -8 braided instead of -8 hardline. It's much cheaper and IMO much better looking. I ran my own -6 aluminum hardline and will probably be replacing with -8 stainless when I upgrade to a 6466
Not that its related to the cost and asthetics that you mention, but I believe that hardline is measured by OD whereas hose is measured by ID. I believe that roughtly speaking, -10 AN hardline is equivalent to -8 AN hose in terms of inside diameter.
Old Feb 27, 2013, 01:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Wheatley
I don't know why ppl would run -8 braided instead of -8 hardline. It's much cheaper and IMO much better looking. I ran my own -6 aluminum hardline and will probably be replacing with -8 stainless when I upgrade to a 6466
after you watch enough youtube tutorials the hard line does look fairly easy to do. like anything else, it comes down to the quality of tools you're using to make the line. there are crappy flaring tools out there that will make the job hell. but research and the internet can fix that problem.

i chose teflon/ptfe because i didn't want to take a chance messing anything up. down the road maybe ill switch to a hard line if my new line gives me trouble but i doubt they will. the hard line is a little intimidating to just go to for a someone that has never worked with flare fittings or understand how they seal. that's why i avoided it. but there's lots of good video tutorials on youtube that show its not that difficult.
Old Feb 27, 2013, 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by mrfred
Not that its related to the cost and asthetics that you mention, but I believe that hardline is measured by OD whereas hose is measured by ID. I believe that roughtly speaking, -10 AN hardline is equivalent to -8 AN hose in terms of inside diameter.
I believe you are correct in the terms of how it's measured but unsure if the Id difference is that drastic, could depend on the wall thickness of the hard line used.

I used 3/8 aluminum fuel hardline, it came in a loose roll. I routed it where the oem line was bending by hand. The stuff is soft and very easy to bend. I flared it and used -6 tube sleeves/nuts. One end attaches to my fuel filter and the other end attaches to -6 nylon braided line. Sorry for the generic name I can't recall it off the top of my head. My full blown housing has a -10 out that I reduced to a -6 to feed my fuel filter. The reason I'm switching to -8 feed other than possible demands once switching to a bigger turbo is that I don't trust the aluminum. It's mounted with rubber clamps but I'm so freaked out that the vibrations are going to cause the aluminum to crack at the tube nut. If it were a short span with connecting two solid mounted items I'd be ok with it but the soft line to the rail and the hardline meet at the firewall without much support. I might be over complicating the situation but it freaks me out nevertheless. I'll be doing a different material when I upgrade line size. The aluminum is great for the weight but its just so soft. You can easily break the flare off if over tightening the tube nut to male/male adapter if not paying attention to were the tube sleeve is.
Old Feb 27, 2013, 03:05 PM
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Originally Posted by tscompusa
after you watch enough youtube tutorials the hard line does look fairly easy to do. like anything else, it comes down to the quality of tools you're using to make the line. there are crappy flaring tools out there that will make the job hell. but research and the internet can fix that problem.

i chose teflon/ptfe because i didn't want to take a chance messing anything up. down the road maybe ill switch to a hard line if my new line gives me trouble but i doubt they will. the hard line is a little intimidating to just go to for a someone that has never worked with flare fittings or understand how they seal. that's why i avoided it. but there's lots of good video tutorials on youtube that show its not that difficult.
I've had a few friends with braided line running long distances that end up with punctures. That's one thing that steered me away. There's nothing wrong with it, I was looking for most affordable lightest option available.

Might have forgotten to mention. I didn't want to hack my oem feed or return so I cut and flared my evap vent tube to use as my return. Seems as big as the original feed line and this way I can reinstall my stock feed with odd thread pitched connection if need be.

I'm in the process of doing a stock location small cell with a sump. It'll retain stock fill and pump housing options. ill be able to run a stock housing to either use my double pumper or just allow my oem fuel gauge to work. Ill probably be using the stock housing for fuel return as well instead of making an AN line return. That's what all this has lead up to for me. I don't drive more than 50-70 miles without stopping so this made sense for me. Any further and I'm usually towing it incase I break it doing something stupid. This allows me to use one pump for my fuel needs, use more of my fuel in the tank and shed some weight.


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