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OP asked for a "good" setup to make 500whp and we gave it to him. Had he asked the most efficient way to do so, how to make the most whp/wtq through the rev range, or how to eek out every bit of WHP from his setup, we would have recommended other routes. The amount of boost needed from an FP Red, on a stock IM, is nowhere near being dangerous or otherwise in need of lowering. I can name 100 things to make 500whp more efficiently, if you don't mind spending the money. In this case, unless OP otherwise states, it's not needed.
K.I.S.S.
Unless you sell intake manifolds. In that case, we get why you are so stuck on this issue.
My obsession with making an engine as efficient as possible has to come from ecu tuning and building engines. To me changing the cams and the intake are just complimenting each other, both parts are ok from the factory and you can make 500HP on them but you can also swap them out for better aftermarket parts that help the engine make that 500HP much easier and over a wider RPM range. ***if budget is a factor then ya stick with the stock intake manifold but if you want to make some extra power and prevent the torque curve from falling off so hard above 6000rpm get a proper intake manifold
A well designed intake manifold and good head/port work are 2 things that are commonly overlooked yet make a much bigger difference than most expect when done correctly.
Again I'm not saying there is anything wrong with using the stock intake manifold on a 500HP FP red build but i am saying there are a few more things that can be done for not to much more $ that will make the entire set up work much more efficiently.
I agree that intake manifold is a tough call. Most don't make power, so do your research before spending money on one that could make less power.
As for turbos, I've been looking a wheel designs and my opinion is the FP HTA/HTZ wheels are very aggressive to make quick boost. Those blades are the most vertical of many blades. They make boost with the least shaft rotations, so an extra few psi on a Red won't be a problem on stock block (especially the BB version). Once you have a built block, then you will want to squeeze out all the efficiency like intake manifold.
Here is an HTZ Black (left) and a 20G (right). Notice the shape of the blades. Look at top position and bottom outter tip position and compare the two. This 20G is an aggressive version and it's not as aggressive as FP HTZ.
If you think a $1400 manifold is "not to [sic] much more money", then it's probably safe to say you and OP may be in completely different ballparks. Also explains your point of view. In that case, throwing another $5-7k for better parts makes complete sense. most of us are not dropping that kind of money just to make 500whp.
