trying to hit the 500hp so what is a good set up for fuel pump and injectors. btw i have a stock block with bolt on, cams n cam gears. New to the evo gang

 

For sure a larger turbo will be needed. I.e. FP Green / Red w/cams on E85 will certainly get you close / there

450 style fuel pump & ID 1300cc injectors

Cam gears not needed

 

Oh yea forgot to put going with a fp red bb

 

 

Sounds like you'll have a fun evo all said and done! You should def hit up Alex: sales@brewedmotorsports.com he's always helped out big time with technical info and great discounts on all the go fast bits!
I didn't see any mention yet but a good intake manifold also goes a long long ways in making good power mid/high RPM. If your looking to get the most out of something like an FP red or green HIGHLY recommend a hypertune of AMS intake manifold. *just allows the engine to work more efficiently in the RPM range the turbo and cams are designed for.*

 

Spending money on an intake manifold is in no way needed for 500whp. Waste of money ,at that power level. It would only function as bling.

 

Definitely agree with kaj. Just get Flex Fuel set up with cams and should be there since you already have an FP red bb.

 

Thanks ill check it out.

 

I def would not say an intake manifold is a waste of money as a couple others stated above. Don't get me wrong you can easily make 500hp with the cams and a turbo BUT it will take a good bit more boost to make the same power compared to the same cam/turbo combo with a hypertune or AMS intake manifold. It's a "work smart not hard" type of thing for your engine.
Again not "needed" but something that will help the engine make more power with less boost which means less strain/stress on the engine/turbo.

 

 

Extravagant no, efficient yes:
With your mindset why swap cams then? Just bolt on a big old 66-72mm inducer turbo throw in the Ethanol and turn the boost up you can make 500 on stock cams.... it can be done but why would you not use the correct parts when they are available? I recommend changing the intake manifold along with the cams for the exact same reasons, both are designed to move more air more efficiently at a higher RPM range than the stock parts which means more power with less boost which means less strain and stress on the engine.
An aftermarket intake manifold does not mean "less responsive" either. If you experienced this you should go back and look closer at exactly what was done and where it went wrong. **something as simple as using a poorly designed intake manifold will also hurt power which is why i only recommended the 2 best manifolds**
If your not familiar with hypertune manifolds here's a link https://brewedmotors.com/hypertune-m...nifold-90mm-tb
****If budget is a big factor and the main thing you're after is a dyno number then ya scrap the efficient parts$$ and just throw boost at it to make your number. For me that dyno number is not so important, i much prefer an efficient set up that will make reliable power throughout the RPM range.

 

Or... He can go with what's simple, proven, and works without spending more money than needed. It's not like he's tapping out an HTA71 at a million psi to make 500whp. It's a Red, which will do it, on a stock IM, with absolutely no problem.
TLDR: if it ain't broke, don't spend the extra cash to fix it.

 

The stock intake manifold flows really well. A ported stock mani flows even better. Unless you're thinking of 650+ whp, i wouldn't even be looking at swapping manifolds. Money is better spent in other areas (this has been outlined above).

 

If you guys want to force more boost to make the power rather than making the engine more efficient for your target RPM range then so be it, nothing wrong with that and yes it will get you the #. I personally set up engines to run as efficient as possible IE make the most power possible with the least effort/stress on the parts. Upgrading the intake manifold is the same idea as changing to a higher duration cam profile, using a correctly sized plenum with tapered runners will net you power throughout the RPM range and compliment the larger than stock cam profile and turbo.
Given all other variables remain the same besides stock VS Hypertune or AMS intake manifold the engine will make a good 10-20% more power throughout the RPM range at the same boost with the proper IM. A great way to visually measure or see this: when tuning on a modern ECU that uses a VE fueling calculation you will see a huge increase in engine efficiency in the 4000-9000rpm range at the same boost when changing to a good intake manifold. You can even see these results on a small turbo/stock turbo set up using decent cams and a hypertune or AMS intake manifold, there is a good chunk of power to be had by making your engine more efficiently accept all that glorious boost you're going to be sending it.

***now be careful and don't just buy any intake manifold, there are indeed a lot of intake manifolds out there that do not make good power and are designed like SH*T, the 2 mentioned above will not disappoint though.

 

OP asked for a "good" setup to make 500whp and we gave it to him. Had he asked the most efficient way to do so, how to make the most whp/wtq through the rev range, or how to eek out every bit of WHP from his setup, we would have recommended other routes. The amount of boost needed from an FP Red, on a stock IM, is nowhere near being dangerous or otherwise in need of lowering. I can name 100 things to make 500whp more efficiently, if you don't mind spending the money. In this case, unless OP otherwise states, it's not needed.
K.I.S.S.
Unless you sell intake manifolds. In that case, we get why you are so stuck on this issue.