I have a few basic questions....


The 'mail-in' flashes that some vendors are offering;

What is the method of increased power delivery? Leaning out? Timing advance? Both?


What is the tipicial af/r's that are able to be had on the evo using 91 octane and still remain safe? Obvously this will change due to a hundred factors, but what is a good general rule of thumb?


How is everyone tuning your timing? My understanding is the only true way to tune a ignition map of a car is to use a dyno, advance until you make no more power and your done. Is everyone here just advancing until they see knock count and then backing off a little? is this safe?


My plans on playing with the tune on my car......

Make 2-3 pulls in 3rd gear, loging wideband af/r and knock count... Lean the car out to a 10.9 from 3000-5000 and 10.5 from 5000-8000 .. Do a couple more pulls to ensure accurate target af/r and no knock. Advance timing until i start seeing small knock counts (1-5) then retard timing 1-2 degrees or until i see no knock count.

Is this a good way to start? Am i on the right track? Please advise



Thanks for your time,

TJ

 

Well I wouldnt say timing advance since it is a pretty crappy timing map that you get on a mail in flash, but removing boost taper for one and also someone leaning out..but normally as you boost more it will lean out..get a wideband and a logger and add timing until you see some knock count then back it out. Also you state you will lean to 10.9. I would say from 4000 on up you can lean to 10.9 if you would like. Still very conservative.

 

Still didn't answer much of my questions........ So your saying a mail-in flash has the same (or less) timing than stock?

I understand you can advance until u see knock and back it out, but that's really not the right way. The right way would be advance timing until you make no additional power...... But that's almost impossable to do on the street.

 

That would be the right way to do it on a dyno in real time, but being how that cannot happen the right way would be to advance untill the ecu appears to see detonation and then, take it down a little.
Mitch Mckee

 

Typical base flash:

Raise Rev Limit to a value you want
Set standing rev limit to a value you want
Set boost cut timer to some high value
Set fuel cut value as high as possible
In some cases increase boost value to hit about 20-21psi

Depending on mods

Lean out fuel from 9:0 or richer to 10:0-10.5
Some portions of the map can get a bit more timing..

 

The few that I have seen actually advance timing alot in most of the map (8-10 degrees over stock in 120% and higher). Most of the target AFR's appear to be leaned one full point map to map, but since I havent logged a bone stock car I cant tell you what it actually equalled out to IRL.

 

jack this is something you recomend everyone to do as a base flash to work from first?

thanks

 

If you have a wideband yes.. But generally the maps are so rich, that you can remove about 1 point of fuel from the 9:0 and richer portion of the map at high RPM if you set your boost for about 20psi.. That alone should pick up 20-30 hp and still be a safe tune. As you play with different boost settings, and AFR's, you affect the timing you can use, and vice versa...

Touching timing is a little different, but there are areas that can be worked on a little at a time.. You can also get another degree of timing upstairs and at peak boost, but that is more subjective and doesn't always go clean (you might get a little knock in some areas depending on your car)

 

like this? sorry for the clarity, i basically mad all the 9:0 , 10:0 and left all the 8:0 alone.

 

You can lean out the 8.0's also.. But depending on the boost levels you may not get into those cells..

 

can someone explain to me the easiest way to determine what %load cell you're operating in for fuel and timing. i'm a little new to tuning by a load % vs. rpm, i come from the honda world where i'd tune a psi vs. rpm based map due to the ECU using a map sensor instead of MAF sensor. someone please enlighten me. i installed a base flash from al, but would like to fine tune it a little more.

 

So what exactly is the function of the boost cut timer and fuel cut value? What causes them to cut? For my IX, I only see a setting for a "boost delay timer," but absolutely nothing that relates to a "fuel cut."

 

Okay, the fuel cut value is the (boost/Load) threshold it must exceed before it will attempt to cut fuel, the timer is the duration of time it can exceed the threshold before it cuts.. Setting both of those parameters really high means it will basically eliminate it.

 

Sorry, the fuel cut table is called "Boost Limit"

 

Log a run and look at the timing vs. RPM values. Assuming no knock, this will give you the Load cells that you are hitting in the high octane timing map. You should be hitting the same load (%) in your high octane fuel map.

l8r)