load flopping.... need some input
Yes, I know that - but how can you use your AFR to determine what load cell you're in when your actual AFR has nothing to do with the AFR numbers in the ECUFlash tables? It's been said many times that they never correspond with real AFR numbers usually being much leaner than target AFRs in ECUFlash. Therefore you can't use AFR to determine what load cell you're in since they don't match.
Originally Posted by -=SPECTRE=-
How can you use AFR when your actual AFR rarely if ever corresponds with the AFR you set in ECUFlash?
I'm confused as to how this is confusing. In open loop mode the ECU simply pulls a value from a table to know how much fuel to use. 0x32 seems to be that value. Simply look up the load from the fuel table by crossing the RPM and this value.
Still lost?
I can change the cell on the dyno and hold that load and see what cell the car is in as well as timing / boost / AF / and all the temps. You live in GA come up to Dyno4Mance this Saturday and you can see it for yourself.
Some people dont have a clue and these people will be the 1st to blow it up. Give someone a long enough cable and they will hang themselves lol
Originally Posted by AutoXer
I didn't say actual AFR, I said target AFR. EvoScan can log the fuel value that the ECU is asking for. It's actually just a byte value. 128 should roughly be equivilent to 14.7 to 1 AFR with a totally stock engine... but that doesn't matter. All you care about is what the ECU is asking for. It seems to work fairly well, but the value and its location(0x32) was sort of stumbled across.
I'm confused as to how this is confusing. In open loop mode the ECU simply pulls a value from a table to know how much fuel to use. 0x32 seems to be that value. Simply look up the load from the fuel table by crossing the RPM and this value.
Still lost?
I'm confused as to how this is confusing. In open loop mode the ECU simply pulls a value from a table to know how much fuel to use. 0x32 seems to be that value. Simply look up the load from the fuel table by crossing the RPM and this value.
Still lost?
Originally Posted by Atlmethevo
Some people dont have a clue and these people will be the 1st to blow it up. Give someone a long enough cable and they will hang themselves lol
Well then learn what you are doing then. Don't you have a dynoflash already? Pull the damn map, look at a stock map, look at the changes and LOG it not too hard.
Originally Posted by -=SPECTRE=-
Listen, Chubby. Don't get mad at me because I called you out on your own assertion about 100 RPM incremental tuning. At least I'm smart enough to ask questions rather than to go around randomly bashing vendors.
I don't have a Dynoflash, my car is stock other than having made some adjustments on my own based on what I've learned so far. I'm at the point now where I need to know what load cell I'm in and from what I've read on here and elsewhere is that it's basically one big guessing game.
no that is wrong. you log your TIMING number in EVOScan and then find that on your timing map. Then you can see based on what RPM/Load timing cell your in where your falling with regard to your A/F.
I hope that makes sense... if not do a search for a thread I made about this subject.
I hope that makes sense... if not do a search for a thread I made about this subject.
It's not a guessing game if you have the right tools, aka Logger, dyno etc. The better the tools the better the data the easier to tune it's that simple. Ever try to build a house with a flat head screw driver? Well that's where you are at right now with tuning the evo. At least get a logger of some sort, best bet would be a dyno because you can see the changes right after on a graph and also see if it's pulling timing on the fly.
Originally Posted by -=SPECTRE=-
I don't have a Dynoflash, my car is stock other than having made some adjustments on my own based on what I've learned so far. I'm at the point now where I need to know what load cell I'm in and from what I've read on here and elsewhere is that it's basically one big guessing game.
Originally Posted by AutoXer
I didn't say actual AFR, I said target AFR. EvoScan can log the fuel value that the ECU is asking for. It's actually just a byte value. 128 should roughly be equivilent to 14.7 to 1 AFR with a totally stock engine... but that doesn't matter. All you care about is what the ECU is asking for. It seems to work fairly well, but the value and its location(0x32) was sort of stumbled across.
I'm confused as to how this is confusing. In open loop mode the ECU simply pulls a value from a table to know how much fuel to use. 0x32 seems to be that value. Simply look up the load from the fuel table by crossing the RPM and this value.
Still lost?
I'm confused as to how this is confusing. In open loop mode the ECU simply pulls a value from a table to know how much fuel to use. 0x32 seems to be that value. Simply look up the load from the fuel table by crossing the RPM and this value.
Still lost?
Originally Posted by honki24
I've got a question:
can someone post up a concurrent screenshot of a pull showing evoscan's knocksum output and ecu+'s knock voltage synced up "side by side"?
I don't have the evoscan software and don't know if it's worth it to see "real" knock. Also, does anyone know that the evoscan software is most definately reading knock as the ecu sees it? Does the ecu really see it in "counts" or is that just a more convenient way for us to interpret it? My motor is almost always in the 1.2 volt range even cruising, I have cams, etc. It's always been a grey area in deciding where real knock is w/ the voltage. My guess thus far has been to keep voltage under 1.85V (except for lift of course). I think a comparison of knock sum and voltage would help greatly.
can someone post up a concurrent screenshot of a pull showing evoscan's knocksum output and ecu+'s knock voltage synced up "side by side"?
I don't have the evoscan software and don't know if it's worth it to see "real" knock. Also, does anyone know that the evoscan software is most definately reading knock as the ecu sees it? Does the ecu really see it in "counts" or is that just a more convenient way for us to interpret it? My motor is almost always in the 1.2 volt range even cruising, I have cams, etc. It's always been a grey area in deciding where real knock is w/ the voltage. My guess thus far has been to keep voltage under 1.85V (except for lift of course). I think a comparison of knock sum and voltage would help greatly.
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