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Old Aug 14, 2006 | 01:02 AM
  #16  
burgers22's Avatar
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From: Oxfordshire
Hi

With my Evo VII, I have added a small restrictor to the T peice that connects the Turbo outlet, actuator and solenoid. I have used a crimp from the end of a bicycle gear change cable with the end drilled out. The restrictor goes in the turbo side of the T.I can control boost pretty well with the stock solenoid now.

I have left the turbo boost error correction stock, but raised boost limit and taken out most of the taper. I would say a wideband and boost logger are essential, I already had an ECU+ and it is fantastic, but I can see why people would use Evoscan insted.

MB
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Old Aug 14, 2006 | 05:22 AM
  #17  
honki24's Avatar
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From: Houston, TX
Originally Posted by burgers22
Hi

With my Evo VII, I have added a small restrictor to the T peice that connects the Turbo outlet, actuator and solenoid. I have used a crimp from the end of a bicycle gear change cable with the end drilled out. The restrictor goes in the turbo side of the T.I can control boost pretty well with the stock solenoid now.

I have left the turbo boost error correction stock, but raised boost limit and taken out most of the taper. I would say a wideband and boost logger are essential, I already had an ECU+ and it is fantastic, but I can see why people would use Evoscan insted.

MB


I'm w/ him, lol, glad I spent the $$$ on EcuPlus before ECU Flash came out, I probably never would have if I hadn't. Great tuning/logging device.
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Old Aug 14, 2006 | 06:29 AM
  #18  
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From: york, pa 17402
we just switched to a hallman mbc, and just ignore the stock boost settings now, with the exception of the max overboost limits....

is working exceptionally well.... even gear to gear its very consistent

cb
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Old Aug 14, 2006 | 08:55 AM
  #19  
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From: SD
Originally Posted by Ludikraut
My only advice would be to change one thing at a time. Don't change multiple variables (e.g. tables) at the same time. Dial in your AFR first with a wideband (leave it slightly on the conservative side), then boost, then timing.

l8r)
If you set your AFR and then adjust boost you will have to go back and adjust your your Fuel Maps again. Adjustments in boost will affect your AFR. I set my boost first, then go for the target AFR, and then timing is last. You use the same concept for other tuning methods ie. AFC, set your boost and then adjust for target AFR. I am not trying to say you are wrong I am just saying this is the way I make my adjustments.
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Old Aug 14, 2006 | 02:40 PM
  #20  
burgers22's Avatar
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From: Oxfordshire
Hi

I did boost and then AFR at WOT, then AFR at high throttle, always a little at a time.

MB
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Old Aug 14, 2006 | 06:39 PM
  #21  
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From: 41° 59' N, 87° 54' W
Originally Posted by cpoevo
If you set your AFR and then adjust boost you will have to go back and adjust your your Fuel Maps again. Adjustments in boost will affect your AFR. I set my boost first, then go for the target AFR, and then timing is last. You use the same concept for other tuning methods ie. AFC, set your boost and then adjust for target AFR. I am not trying to say you are wrong I am just saying this is the way I make my adjustments.
True, you may have to fine tune the fuel map again after you adjust your boost, but since the stock ECU fuel table represents target AFR values, the actual AFR should not change by much, if at all when you run more boost. All that should happen is that you land in higher load columns, which then may have to be fine tuned - especially if they've been left untouched.

Either way works.

l8r)
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