Heading back to the Dyno
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Heading back to the Dyno
Last time I dynoed was back in late June of this year. At that time my mods were an ebay TBE w/ test pipe, Joe P mbc @ 21psi & K&N panel filter. the car made 297hp & 292tq at the wheels after 8 tuning passes. Here is the link for reference: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=208250 . I was/am pretty happy with the results for such a small investment in aftermarket parts.
With my crappy driving I was running high 12s trapping between 106-107mph in my full weight 04 GSR w/SS&L package & over 70k on the stock motor.
Fast forward to now... recently I've added an ebay o2 housing, K&N cone filter, 10.5^cm hotside & ebay FMIC. Pretty much now I have all the 'basic' bolt-ons most EVO owners do with the exception of maybe the name brands, lol.
I track my car on a weekly basis so I know those new mods with tuning, and my crappy driving, netted me an additional 3-4mph increase in my traps.
I really don't like to benchrace, espically dyno sheets, but I'm figuring that translates into about 30hp at the wheels. Tomorrow I will find out for sure and post the results.
I'm curious to here from others with simular mods and maybe professional tuning what their output was.
With my crappy driving I was running high 12s trapping between 106-107mph in my full weight 04 GSR w/SS&L package & over 70k on the stock motor.
Fast forward to now... recently I've added an ebay o2 housing, K&N cone filter, 10.5^cm hotside & ebay FMIC. Pretty much now I have all the 'basic' bolt-ons most EVO owners do with the exception of maybe the name brands, lol.
I track my car on a weekly basis so I know those new mods with tuning, and my crappy driving, netted me an additional 3-4mph increase in my traps.
I really don't like to benchrace, espically dyno sheets, but I'm figuring that translates into about 30hp at the wheels. Tomorrow I will find out for sure and post the results.
I'm curious to here from others with simular mods and maybe professional tuning what their output was.
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Sorry this took so long to get results but the place I dynoed at didn't send my run files until this morning...
Overall I wasn't thrilled with the 'numbers' I put down. I honestly thought they would have been about 10-20hp higher and the TQ would have stayed flat for longer. I guess because I trap 110mph in the 1/4 and the car feels so strong on the street is the reason I was expecting more.
I'm not losing any sleep over this though because they are after all only numbers. Since I race weekly I know the improvements these parts made on my ET/MPH, I'm just confused why it didn't actually translate into more power on the dyno.
I really only did this for a reference to see how much WHP I picked up since my last dyno session. I am comforted by the fact that the car traps well and feels good on the street where its driven daily.
Now on to the numbers... I came in with my street tune which I've spent a lot of time building and put down. WHen I last left the dyno back in June with just a K&N panel filter, catless TBE & MBC @ 21psi I put down 297hp & 292tq at the wheels. the car was running 12.7-12.9 between 104-107mph consistantly.
I then added a 10.5^cm hotside, 24psi of boost, cone filter, ebay IC & ebay o2 housing. Those mods droped my ET to the 12.4-12.6 range and increase my MPH to 110 consistantly. My first pass on the rollers with those added mods yeilded 302hp & 289tq at the wheels. Thats only a 5hp gain and a 9tq loss! To me this just doesn't make a lick of sense because the car 'feels' stronger all around and my trap speed prove that it is making more power.
So I did about 10 tuning passes this time on the dyno. Got the power output up some but not much. New numbers are 319hp & 308tq at the wheels at just under 24psi. That is an increase of 17hp & 19tq from my first pass.


All the adjustments I made on the dyno didn't yeild major differences anywhere in the powerband. This tells me the tune is pretty close to being optimized.
One thing I noticed was that the A/F on the dyno was different then the A/F I log on the street. This makes me think that the car wasn't under the same load on the street which might explain the poor results.
I use a program called datalog labs to calculate power on the street when I'm tuning. I compared it to the actual dyno numbers to the calculated number from datalog labs and they were only off by 1-2 HP. When I use the datalog lab program on the street I usually see around 350+ whp, this was part of the reason why I thought I would get higher numbers.
comments and critisism welcome.
Overall I wasn't thrilled with the 'numbers' I put down. I honestly thought they would have been about 10-20hp higher and the TQ would have stayed flat for longer. I guess because I trap 110mph in the 1/4 and the car feels so strong on the street is the reason I was expecting more.
I'm not losing any sleep over this though because they are after all only numbers. Since I race weekly I know the improvements these parts made on my ET/MPH, I'm just confused why it didn't actually translate into more power on the dyno.
I really only did this for a reference to see how much WHP I picked up since my last dyno session. I am comforted by the fact that the car traps well and feels good on the street where its driven daily.
Now on to the numbers... I came in with my street tune which I've spent a lot of time building and put down. WHen I last left the dyno back in June with just a K&N panel filter, catless TBE & MBC @ 21psi I put down 297hp & 292tq at the wheels. the car was running 12.7-12.9 between 104-107mph consistantly.
I then added a 10.5^cm hotside, 24psi of boost, cone filter, ebay IC & ebay o2 housing. Those mods droped my ET to the 12.4-12.6 range and increase my MPH to 110 consistantly. My first pass on the rollers with those added mods yeilded 302hp & 289tq at the wheels. Thats only a 5hp gain and a 9tq loss! To me this just doesn't make a lick of sense because the car 'feels' stronger all around and my trap speed prove that it is making more power.
So I did about 10 tuning passes this time on the dyno. Got the power output up some but not much. New numbers are 319hp & 308tq at the wheels at just under 24psi. That is an increase of 17hp & 19tq from my first pass.


All the adjustments I made on the dyno didn't yeild major differences anywhere in the powerband. This tells me the tune is pretty close to being optimized.
One thing I noticed was that the A/F on the dyno was different then the A/F I log on the street. This makes me think that the car wasn't under the same load on the street which might explain the poor results.
I use a program called datalog labs to calculate power on the street when I'm tuning. I compared it to the actual dyno numbers to the calculated number from datalog labs and they were only off by 1-2 HP. When I use the datalog lab program on the street I usually see around 350+ whp, this was part of the reason why I thought I would get higher numbers.
comments and critisism welcome.
I have the free version of datalog lab and I would like to know how to calculate hp with the program. Is it only in the pay version that you can do this?
Edit: I looked at the "power graphing" part of data log lab and I clicked it. But there are no numbers next to the power and torque numbers. So how are you doing it?
Edit: I looked at the "power graphing" part of data log lab and I clicked it. But there are no numbers next to the power and torque numbers. So how are you doing it?
Last edited by nj1266; Sep 20, 2006 at 04:46 PM.
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Originally Posted by nigletsyz
I have a feeling the ebay FMIC may be holding you back
Tomorrow I'm going back to the track with the last tune that yeilded the highest HP&TQ on the dyno. If my MPH picks up compared to what I usually run with my tune I did on the road then I will be impressed. I have a feeling that it wont though... of coarse my last feeling about making higher dyno numbers wasn't exactly right so who knows.
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thats because the software measures HP (actually TQ) as acceleration over time. EVOScan doesn't output the correct time stamp in its logs for DataLog Labs to use, so you only have half the formula. You need to D/L MalibuJacks log converter which will put your EVOScan log files in the correct format for DataLog Labs to calculate HP.
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Let me clarify that when I said the DLL dyno feature was on off by 1-2hp I was talking about while I was on the dyno, compared to my actual dyno results. When on the road I get anywhere between 280-410hp depending on the incline, decline ect...
Data log lab is a road dyno, so its calculating the affects of frontal area, inertial mass (hence the accurate weight), and rolling resistence.. When your on the dyno those factors do not really com into play (rolling resistence would be the only thing the dyno might be affected by) therefore if you used Data log Lab on a log from a dyno run, it'll probably read HP about 10% higher than the dyno itself would read, and depending on the mass your trying to rotate on the dyno, the torque numbers will reflect either higher or lower..
However since the original calibrations for the Evo were ones I submitted, I'm fairly certain that if you get your additional weight number set up right, and your on a flat surface, the resulting output should be within a few hp of a dynojet.
I have mine configured to be a heartbreaker since I don't care about the numbers, just the improvement/changes...
However since the original calibrations for the Evo were ones I submitted, I'm fairly certain that if you get your additional weight number set up right, and your on a flat surface, the resulting output should be within a few hp of a dynojet.
I have mine configured to be a heartbreaker since I don't care about the numbers, just the improvement/changes...
Look in the car configuration editor in Data Log Lab.. I actually used a basic calculation I had found online to measure the frontal area and calculate the CD (coefficient of drag) however I later found those values for the Evo7 and used those instead.
Keep in mind that your CD values will be different if you have a spoiler or not, and a front splitter or not.. since the additional downforce helps high speed stability, but increases drag pretty significantly..
You'd be surprised that you can pick up MPH at the drag strip by removing your spoiler before you go but the rear of the car feels alot lighter at high speed.
Keep in mind that your CD values will be different if you have a spoiler or not, and a front splitter or not.. since the additional downforce helps high speed stability, but increases drag pretty significantly..
You'd be surprised that you can pick up MPH at the drag strip by removing your spoiler before you go but the rear of the car feels alot lighter at high speed.
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Originally Posted by MalibuJack
Data log lab is a road dyno, so its calculating the affects of frontal area, inertial mass (hence the accurate weight), and rolling resistence.. When your on the dyno those factors do not really com into play (rolling resistence would be the only thing the dyno might be affected by) therefore if you used Data log Lab on a log from a dyno run, it'll probably read HP about 10% higher than the dyno itself would read, and depending on the mass your trying to rotate on the dyno, the torque numbers will reflect either higher or lower..
However since the original calibrations for the Evo were ones I submitted, I'm fairly certain that if you get your additional weight number set up right, and your on a flat surface, the resulting output should be within a few hp of a dynojet.
I have mine configured to be a heartbreaker since I don't care about the numbers, just the improvement/changes...
However since the original calibrations for the Evo were ones I submitted, I'm fairly certain that if you get your additional weight number set up right, and your on a flat surface, the resulting output should be within a few hp of a dynojet.
I have mine configured to be a heartbreaker since I don't care about the numbers, just the improvement/changes...
your moving a different mass on the dyno than when you drive the car, but I'm assuming you meant the torque numbers on your road tuning sessions were way off.. There are a few variables at work, and every car is a little different.
In all honesty I never cared too much to validate the info as long as it was consistent for my own car.. Typically if your going on a slight incline or decline, it can affect the numbers..
But all my past experience was with the UTEC, I never really bothered to see how well it worked with the Evoscan converted logs. ECU+ already has this feature built in.
In all honesty I never cared too much to validate the info as long as it was consistent for my own car.. Typically if your going on a slight incline or decline, it can affect the numbers..
But all my past experience was with the UTEC, I never really bothered to see how well it worked with the Evoscan converted logs. ECU+ already has this feature built in.



