does anyone have the restrictor pill in the clutch removed? not sure if that would do anything. I dont have extensive knowlegde about the ECU or a wideband to test with. BUT since everyone with WB said that its still delivering fuel makes me think that its a combination of things. Since that little bit of play in the clutch pedal allows the engine to start braking, maybe it triggers something in the ECU or maybe its mechanical since there is nothing to restrict fluid movement. if anyone has a wideband and notices it still deleivering fuel, try pushing the clutch a tad to see if fuel is cut.

 

love that "feature" on all my rhd cars... might have to do it on the evo now too. it probably disables the standing rev limiter.

 

Nope, it doesn't. It is the lowest switch to the floor (there is like 3 on our clutch pedals). As far as i can tell, there is no other side effect from that one switch.

 

ok so I dont know if this is known information or not, but here it is. I crawled under the dash, which sucked by the way, looking for anything that would cause the behavior I described previously, regarding engine braking while slightly pushing clutch pedal. it tuns out that there is a button/switch behind the arm of the clutch pedal. when the clutch pedal is engaged slightly, enough to release cruise control(which obviously does not exist) the button pops out. the first pic is one with the pedal pushed all the way in(button released). the second pic is the clutch pedal not pushed in. (button pushed in) Any of you gurus PLEASE chime in. I am going to go look see if it can be unplugged

 

All that will do is make it hang and never come back down. Just watch

 

dam. well It turns out that is responsible for quite a few things. thses are the only threads I found about it, and one is quite old.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=242926

 

I am having pretty severe rpm surge at partial throttle shifting. Doesn't do it at WOT shifts. Chronohunter (Paul Gerrard) complained that it definitely cost us time at the Redline Time Attack this weekend because he had to get on the brakes earlier to compensate for this. It started doing it after my latest retune with 1000cc injectors, and the re-use of my stock intake.

Before, with 880cc injectors, it didn't happen.

BTW, it is not throttle "hang," it is rapid throttle acceleration, which for a short moment fights against you when you suddenly hit the brakes. Clutch has nothing to do with it, in my case at least.

 

i think you're not in the same boat as us. your problem is most likely related to your mods or your tuning. our cars (IX) do this factory stock.

 

bump for fix

 

To the guys that think it's clutch related:

It is totally not related to the clutch.

It is in the flex capacitor table in the ECU somewhere.
(Seriously, it's in the ECU, not the clutch guys)

I have been playing with EVOscan and ECUflash to try and find out how to
make it go away. I am really trying to see what I can do to make it go away,
although I kind of like having it on for some reason.

 

well if you figure it out let us know so we can rid ourselves of it thanks

 

Same problem, it always seems to be after partial throttle boosting too ( cornering)

 

What are your mods?

 

Pretty big problem. I hope someone with some knowledge of these things can help.










*Cough* Malibu where r u!!! *Cough*

 

Oh THANK GOD for this thread...

I have driven my BRAND NEW IX MR for a total of 80 miles, and within the first 10 miles I remarked about this throttle hang. I said to my friend "this flywheel must be a thousand pounds!"

My background is with Toyotas, and toyota's ECUs and programing are pretty rock solid, so the first thing I was thinking was mechanical. Here were my thoughts.

1) Heavy flywheel / rotating mass causing inertia to keep RPMs high
2) Throttle plate sticking slightly open (pressure, or friction)
3) Throttle plate doesn't seal (doubtful as idle is controlled low)
4) Stock BOV/Diverter valve not releasing pressure, causing throttle plate to stick open.

Those with you with data logging, I would love to see the following perameters:
Throttle Position
Manifold pressure
IAC position
MAF voltage
Injector percentage.

Basically, if we see throttle position not closing, then it's a mechanical problem
If we see the throttle position fully closing then it's a software problem

Lets look at the symptoms... then let's look at the cause of those... then let's look at the cause of THOSE and go from there. once we know all the causes, we can fix them.

Symptom - RPM "hangs" after throttle closes.
Cause
Theory - Inertia keeping RPMs high, Solution: lower rotating mass
Theory - injectors are being cut causing a lean condition, and a lean power increase... (HIGHLY doubtful, but still to test)
Theory - air being vented into manifold, Cause: throttle plate open? IAC open?

Test the throttle plate... what is the voltage of the throttle plate when closed and this condition occurs. If the throttle plate is fully closed, we can eliminate the Diverter valve as a problem as well...
Test the IAC... unplug it, and see if the hang is fixed

I've been reading these forums for a couple weeks now, and it seems that any time there is a problem, people use the "boomerang solution"... This means to throw a part/software change at it and see if it comes back. Lets look at the causes and fix those.

of course I would love to do these myself, however my car is in Arizona, and I am in Wisconsin for the next month... so I can't check these myself.

Good luck guys... hope I've helped somewhat here