Cool.. Although I originally calibrated the output to use a PLX Gage, the Zeitronix won't need it because its display unit is easier to find a mounting location for. The Tuner Pro is a bit large and difficult to find a good place to mount and view its built-in display.

The Tuner Pro does have an EGT input, Map Input, 2 5v inputs, and its logging is very good and easy to work with, but that wiring harness is what has been bothering me.. I'm actually planning on using it in my Crown Vic P71 for tuning with the supercharger I am going to install..

 

I use the PLX R-500. It has 2 speed inputs and 4 analog inputs. I currently log MAP(AEM 3.5 bar), AFR, EGT, G's, MPH, and RPM. I can also plug in a set of headphones and listen for knock. The wideband can be set up numerous ways. It will store about 80 minutes of data internally, or you can stream straight to the laptop.

 

I have one of the older Zeitronix and i have never had a problem viewing it.

It comes with a ton of extra features over the Innovate (which i also own) for just a bit more money and does not have the lunchbox size display.

The Innovate programmable dispalys are kinda cool, but the Zeitronix is uber small, even with all options, i hooked up my map sensor for boost reading to the line that used to run to OE gauge cluster, and i mounted the display where they used to be. See pic.

 

Wow. I like how you mounted that. Very slick. Where did you get that cover piece that was drilled out for the gauge and zeitronix display?

 

Both the Innovate and ZT2 are equally good. Each one has advantages and disadvantages. I like the Innovate for the simple reason that it allows you to re-calibrate the WBO2 sensor. WBO2 sensors drift with age and must be re-calibrated or replaced. The Innovate also allows you to log w/o a laptop. Yeah it is large, but if you are concerned about the size and do not want a unit that logs, then you can get the LC-1 with an XD-16. IMO, re-calibration is essential for a proper functioning WBO2 sensor.

 

Zeitronix has never needed calibration and it has consistantly has outpaced the competition in tests like these.

 

btw I found out today if your sensor is dead on your zeitronix, then the display just maxes out full lean at 24 something. oopsie!

 

I wonder if they did the correct Free Air calibration on the TurboXS unit.. Its damn accurate if you have the German sensor in it..

All sensors REQUIRE calibration, but I am impressed that the Zeitronix does that well without needing to be calibrated first..

Okay.. now who can PM me with a fantastic deal on one?

 

Its just an RS radio delete plate. Since i have an RS it wasn't too hard to find!! lol.

I'm sure one can be had for $10 in the WTB thread though. A little dremel and a hole saw and i was good to go.


As for the Zeitronix, i have never had to replace a sensor, EVER! I have had it now for over 2 years and it just keeps going.

The unit itself is designed on the Russian Armed forces philosophy: It must be able to function in all conditions and be easily fixed.

All cables and parts (other than the display and wb controller box) are readily available anywhere. It uses phone cables between the controller and display (very small black, and easy to hide and thread through your interior) and between the contoller and the laptop. Where it connects to the laptop it uses a standard rj-11 to 9-pin serial converter, again available anywhere.

I bought a straight jumper harness from boomslang.us and wired everything up that way (TPS, RPM, Power). The map sensor used is a standard 3.5 bar available from aem, zeitronix, or an industrial parts supply. EGT sensor used is again standard. No proprietary plugs or sensors here. Also uses the VW bosch o2 sensor, which can be had at your local vw dealer for about $60.

I have never regretted this purchase.

 

It's exciting to see MalibuJack looking at the zeitronix, maybe mitsulogger V2 will be
zeitronix ready.

 

That is the problem with units like the ZT2. They never give you an error message telling you that your sensor is about to die, they just keep giving you erroneous data. The Innovate will give you an error message once youe sensor starts drifting beyond a certain threshold. That is when you know that you a) have to re-calibrate your O2 sensor or b) if calibration does not resolve the problem, replace the sensor with a new one.

 

So how do you know if the data that you are getting from your WBO2 sensor is accurate or not?

We know for a FACT that Bosch (and probably other) sensors degrade with age. The internal resistor in the sensor degrades. The WBO2 that Bosch designed works well @ stoich even if it degrades, but @ richer areas (where our engines have their AFR) the data from the sensor becomes inaccurate.

Here again I find issues. Why do I need a harness to hook up the unit? I hooked up my innovate w/o touching my ECU harness. From what I read about the ZT2, you either need to hack inot your ECU harness or you need to get a bommslang harness and hack inot that one.

Why am I limited to one 3.5 bar sensor? What if I do NOT have an EVO and my car only boosts 1 bar? That 3.5 AEM bar will lose resolution when dealing with lower boost application. There is no such limitation with other units. You can use almost ANY MAP sensor with PLX for example. I know that the AEM is super accurate, but it using a 3.5 bar on a car boosting 1 bar does not make sense or lead to accurate results for that matter.

Are you limited to this one sensor with the ZT2? What if you want to use the better NTK sensor? Then what do you do?

 

All sensors need calibration and they must be re-calibrated in free air or replaced if you cannot re-calibrate them.

When Mustang dyno needed a WBO2 sensor to use guess which one they went with? INNOVATE. Notice that it is the same unit as the innovate. It has the same record and calibrate button and it is as big as a lunchbox

I can only speculate that the reason for that is the ability to re-calibrate the senosr in free air. A dyno sees a lot of hard use and a unit that can re-calibrate the sensor in free air is an asset on a dyno. Rather than replace the sensor, you simply re-calibrate.

 

Regarding the harness, you only need that if you'd like to log RPM along with the various things logged by the Zeitronix. If you do not want to log RPM then you do not need to touch the ECU harness.

Your concerns regarding the MAP sensor are just plain ridiculous. If you can't get the resolution you need out of it then you must be using some pretty crazy device for tuning as it has better tuning resolution than anything I've ever seen. Also, if your car only boosts 1 bar, you will need at least a 2 bar MAP sensor, but you would probably want a little headroom, so a 2.5 bar MAP sensor would be the smallest you could use.

I believe you are limited to the one sensor, if you want to use a different one you use a different setup. If you don't like it, don't use it, but it really is a very good sensor. This is especially true with the latest features with the warning light and failsafe trigger voltage.

-Paul

 

o rly? Unfortunatly you didn't know that I dynoed the car before the sensor went bad and the innovate lunchbox that was reading from my tailpipe was giving me the same readings within .2 (leaner at the tailpipe) the zeitronix was giving me in my DP.

My zeitronix sensor died because I drove the car without the unit hooked up to the sensor for 3 weeks.