What would cause a car to knock?
I'm a little confused here.
In this thread you say that every car knocks on 91 octane no matter the tune:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...3&postcount=12
then in this thread here you are asking what the deal is with a car that keeps knocking on 91 octane?
Either way, did you check for boost leaks?
In this thread you say that every car knocks on 91 octane no matter the tune:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...3&postcount=12
then in this thread here you are asking what the deal is with a car that keeps knocking on 91 octane?
Either way, did you check for boost leaks?
I'm a little confused here.
In this thread you say that every car knocks on 91 octane no matter the tune:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...3&postcount=12
then in this thread here you are asking what the deal is with a car that keeps knocking on 91 octane?
Either way, did you check for boost leaks?
In this thread you say that every car knocks on 91 octane no matter the tune:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...3&postcount=12
then in this thread here you are asking what the deal is with a car that keeps knocking on 91 octane?
Either way, did you check for boost leaks?
No we did not check for boost leaks. But why would a boost leak cause knock?
The car still runs on stock plugs, IIRC. The car has a Walbro pump. Your question about the plugs gave me an idea. I am going to get some bpr8ES plugs and run them on the car. I have read that a one step colder plugs helps with reducing knock. I am going to test this. Thanks for triggering this thought.
Last edited by nj1266; Feb 2, 2007 at 10:18 PM.
.
That is my personal opinion on 91 octane gas. But I am not looking to argue with you my opinion. A lot of people disagree with me. And Bob wants to run his car on 91. If it was up to me, I would run on 93 octane gas and be done with all this BS. But it is not my car and I am looking for solutions.
If the leak is bad, the turbo will spin faster to reach target boost and create more heat in the process.
Sometimes (I have no definitive data, just a few "wow that cured it" things) the restriction caused by the lower intercooler pipe can cause the same thing that Bryan described. The compressor has to overspin to make the same flow/pressure and the extra heat aggravates the problem. I started to tune one VIII that had almost all the usual suspects and it ended up only getting about 2* more advance than stock before it started to det. Sacked the cat and LICP and then it tuned like normal. I dunno if it was related but its what happened with his car.
I don't think it would be injectors or plugs since 100oct. seems to cure it. Not 100% sure though.
Not sure if this makes sense but. I ran my 8 with 7* at 5500@11.2 afr's 93oct. 21psi. and it pulls timing down to 4-5*.
Now I run 11*@ 11.5afr's 93oct. and no knock detected. With no change in mods.
So I was wondering if being a little on the rich side would also cause it to knock?
Or maybe your H/F cat is clogged causing egt's to rise.
Not sure if this makes sense but. I ran my 8 with 7* at 5500@11.2 afr's 93oct. 21psi. and it pulls timing down to 4-5*.
Now I run 11*@ 11.5afr's 93oct. and no knock detected. With no change in mods.
So I was wondering if being a little on the rich side would also cause it to knock?
Or maybe your H/F cat is clogged causing egt's to rise.
When it was tuned the second time the AFR was made richer and the knock counts went down from about 12-15 to about 8-9.
The HF cat is brand new, probably less than a month old. We also tested with a test pipe and the car knocked on 91 octane gas.
Attached is a sample log of how the car behaved on 91 octane when I logged it after the 1st tune.
Tip in AFR change doesnt seem to be happening quick enough and could be causing some issues. Right when it loads up it shows 14.1 AFR at 112 @ 3000 (should be some boost here right?) and doesnt start to richen for a second or 3. Can you show a full ignition and fuel shot or mail the .hex? If so it would make it somewhat easier.
John
John
Last edited by JohnBradley; Feb 2, 2007 at 11:00 PM.
yes, it can. I've had a couple cars on the dyno be a pain in the *** to tune by being very sensitive to timing and knock. One car was boost leak tested. Found leaks at 10psi. Put it back on the dyno, retuned it, which was much smoother to tune this time and it jumped 21whp and 10wtq.
If the leak is bad, the turbo will spin faster to reach target boost and create more heat in the process.
If the leak is bad, the turbo will spin faster to reach target boost and create more heat in the process.
make sure theres nothing rattling under the car or in the engine bay... i had the same knock that was cured by 100 oct... the race gas just worked that well by getting rid of the knock, mircale juice. but once ya start doing some tuning for the 100 it should pop up pretty fast if you have the same problem i had
cheers!
good luck
cheers!
good luck

Checking and/or replacing plugs isn't a bad idea either. They are cheap.







