There is an aftermarket filter, but the stock sensors are all in place as usual. Should I just solder a longer wire onto the blue and white and run it through the firewall to the block?

Or should I just expect this kind of result with that air filter?

Edit: May also be helpful to know the stock BOV is being used and it is not VTA.
Edit no. 2: (Bump, hehe) Also the LC-1 is on my cigarette lighter power, which is also where my V1 is powered. I was running the V1 at the time I was logging. Should I disconnect the V-1 during these times? More info: I unplugged my post-cat o2 and set an SES light which was on while logging. Could this have put my ecu into limpdick mode and caused this?

 

Bump.

If no one has an answer to this question (no worries, there is always a first time for everything) I'll go out and do some switching around...I'll disconnect the V1 and solder a longer wire to white/blue and run it to the block. If this corrects these readings i'll let everyone know so you can learn from the experience. If this returns the same readings, I'll put my stock airbox back on, and see if that influences the readings. Either way, I'll let you know.

 

Below is a quote from Klaus - the dude that engineered LC1

"White/green an d blue should be ideally on the same ground, but on separate lugs (if analog outs are used). If you are using EVOSCAN, your laptop is grounded to the engine through the OBDII cable. The LC-1, connected to your computer, is now also grounded through the computer's ground and serial port to both the chassis and engine ground. This is bad. As you are not using the analog outs, tape them off. Same for the analog out ground (green). Connect system ground (white) and and heater ground (blue) to the engine block. You can even use the same lug.
The black wire is not a ground, but the calibration wire connected to pushbutton and LED. If it is not used, tape it off."

Also, for rear O2 this is what I did and works fine:

1. Unscrewed NB (OEM) O2 sensor and installed Bosch WB O2 in it's place.
2. Spliced perrin cel fix in NB O2 harness
3. LC1 located underneath passenger seat and used the existing NB hole in floor for LC1 harness.
4. NB sensor still hooked up with cel fix and is also located under passenger seat wraped once with stainless wire (to keep from overheating) enclosed in a glass poppy seed jar, and wrapped with mock tape (to keep from burning anything but still keep my wifes *** warm )

 

Thanks

Update for reference!

Connect red (live) feed to *** lighter (adapter used).
Connect all ground wires, namely Blue, white, Led/push switch ground (black) to a single wire and used a small battery clamp and hooked it on front suspension chasis. (also grounded from block.)

Works a treat!

NB. Do not use ground from *** lighter source or around that area.

 

NB to NB.

"***" is a slang term for cigarette in Britain. Just in case any of you were confused in that respect. However "to ***" or "fagging" involve public schools and are another subject entirely.

MB

 

 

Hahaha.... That was funny.

Alright Well I'll go ahead and to that when I get some time. But I noticed in the manual a section on using the analog outs on the LC-1 to emulate the NB by splicing into the stock NB harness, so I may give that a run to see if it fixes the SES light. If that is the case, I don't think I even need the O2 fix...

 

*Bump*

I finally got some time to tear down yesterday and made a few changes to the wiring.

I soldered both the White and Blue grounds to a singe 10GA wire which I routed through to the engine compartment, where It was suprisingly close to the negative battery terminal, so I soldered a single lug on the end and tested the resistence between the blue and white and the end lug, and it came up a little less than 1 ohm, ~.8 or so. i beleive my poor soldering job is to blame for this. I attached the lug to the negative side, free-air calibrated it again, and took it for another test drive, however the log looks very similar. 14.7-about 2k, then 11.8 to 12.1 from there to 7k. I suspect that it may be the soldering, or thought perhaps it is the connection to the negative terminal. Is this not the best place to ground it?

 

hmmm is this the same issue w/ the LM-1 or is the LC-1 that sensitive

 

whats wrong with 14.7 then richer up top?

 

I grounded mine under the centor console. Under the cig lighter. There are 2 bolts that go to the sheet metal. I haven't had 1 problem with that ground

 

Are most of you pulling power from the radio and cig lighter? I tired making my LC-1 plug and play using a cig lighter cord and wiring it up from there. I know there was power and such but I couldn't seem to make the connection to the Logworks2 software.

 

I have to run 91 octane... I would normally be tuning for around ~11.4 or so even throughout the powerband...maybe a little richer up top. I doubt running 12:1 at peak boost with stock advance on 91 is good for the car, I have a feeling it wouldn't run well. At least not run long. In addition, from the box the cars usually run much richer than 11.4, this is why a tune builds power on a stock car. Leaning out to a safe level opens up power potential and is still safe.

This is why I beleive my LC-1 is reading incorrectly. My mind imagines I should be reporting around 10.5:1 or so throughout the band, it seems to be reading 1.5 high or so under load and maybe 2 points rich under decel.

I think I'll take out my Lean spool sometime and play with that, maybe I am running a true 12:1....

 

An open element filter usually leans out the mix. The numbers seem really close to what I'd expect with your mods. I would think that if your numbers are smooth and consistent from run to run, your ground is fine. I would expect to see spikes and inconsistencies with a bad ground.

As noted in many other posts, I'm a noob at tuning and am basing this comment on a general knowledge of electrical systems.

EDIT: Here is a link to my stock dyno for an AFR reference if it helps. This was recorded with a tailpipe sniffer.

 

i grounded mine in the same place +1