Hi,

Where would you suggest is the best place to ground the LC-1?
The book says the engine block?
Any ideas how to do this?

Please advise what you guys have done and how?

I do not fancy damaging the LC-1

Thank You.

Oracle.

 

Engine block. I ran mine thru the firewall on the passenger side. I had grounding problems until I did this.

 

Where on the block did you mount the ground?

 

Hi

Took both mine from the radio feeds, behind, well the radio. In my RHD JDM 7, there is a rubber bung on the drivers side just back from the clutch foot rest, if you take the rest off you can peel back the carpet and get the WB sensor through there with a bit of jiggling. This all means you don't have to mess about getting the cables through the firewall.

MB

 

Apparently you get false readings if you ground anywhere except the engine block.

I was advised by Innovate that grounding ie. stereo etc. is bad Only ground on engine block.

How and where on the block???

 

there is no problem grounding to any substantial piece of the dash structure.

the important point is to have a good solid connection to something more than a stamped steel sheet metal part. you do want to separate the blue ground from the others (think I remember that right).
I know it will work because I did not run a ground up to the block, and my lc1 is working very well.

 

Your right but if you ever experience ground offsets from like, the starter, then that would be bad.

White/green and blue should be ideally on the same ground, but on separate lugs (if analog outs are used). If you are using EVOSCAN, your laptop is grounded to the engine through the OBDII cable. The LC-1, connected to your computer, is now also grounded through the computer's ground and serial port to both the chassis and engine ground. This is bad. As you are not using the analog outs, tape them off. Same for the analog out ground (green). Connect system ground (white) and and heater ground (blue) to the engine block. You can even use the same lug.
The black wire is not a ground, but the calibration wire connected to pushbutton and LED. If it is not used, tape it off.

Block grounds:
Every tranny bolt is fastened directly into block
look under block where starter shield is bolted
Just look, loooooook you might actually have to lift car up and remove undertray and get your hands dirty

 

INSTALL DIRECTIONS:

http://www.vishnutuning.com/Smart/wi...stallation.htm

 

Hi

There are a whole load of ground wires then terminate on a strut behind the radio, I crimped on a spade connector ad attached to one of these. A check with the DVM showed no resistants to the battery earth, or stray voltages. You are then grounding to the cars earth loom rather then a random piece of metal behind the radio. I should really have pointed this out in the first post.

MB

 

How do you check with the DVM showing no resistants to the battery earth, or stray voltages? What reading are we looking for?

 

I disconected the black earth wires I wanted to use, then with the DVM, using the Ohm range I measured from the black wires behind the radio, to the battery earth terminal, this should show 0 or something like 0.1. That easily good enough. Then with the black cables connected I did the same again with the engine on, this time on the volts range, again no reading over 0.9 The LC1 works fine. The problem with using the engine is is a pain to get the cables there, the earth lugs are dirty and hard to get off, then you have to make sure the LC1s little cables can't work themselves to breaking. The only good thing is the engine should be them same potential as the battery neg terminal, which is what we need, the term earth is a bit misleading, negative common would be more correct.

MB

 

Ok, I have a question that is on topic to all this...

Yesterday when I installed my LC-1 I used the bung already located in my CBE pipe, having removed my old NBo2 from there. Then I routed the connector up underneath the pass seat, mounted the control box there...blah blah blah. This is a long ways from the block, so I grounded the LC-1 the the chassis underneath the console. It all apeared to work ok, but I got what I think is some interesting readings from it...

Car reads stoich at cruise, as it should...
Car reads lean on the throttle out of boost (~15.3)
BUT, having not messed with my fuel tables ever before, it read a nice, flat ~12.0:1 afr from about 2500-7000rpm. Yes, I bought the car new, no it's never been tuned...no knock, egt ~271

Also, When I lift the throttle it shoots to a 40-80 AFR then coasts down to ~10.3 where it will hold until I either get on the throttle or take it out of gear.

Could these funky readings be caused by improper grounding issue?

 

Hi

Its possible, as I said in my previous post, my LC1 is on the same earth mount as several other wiring loom earths, so should be grounded OK. It is a possibility that the metal bar you have used is not a good connection to the battery neg. I notice you have an HKS Racing Suction Intake, if there is an aftermarket filter on this, it maybe affecting the way your ECU is reading the airflow, which may in turn affect the AFRs you are getting. Other factors such as a leak in the exhaust or incorrect calibration of the device could also explain the readings.

MB

 

If you pull the carpet off on the pass side where the center console meets the dashboard, you will find a gromet...I used this to pull the LC-1 wires into the cabin. Directly behind where the center console meets the dashboard there is a metal brace of some sort with several holes on it and nothing connected to it. I used this metal piece to ground the wires. I left the LC-1 controlled tucked under the exhaust heat shield. Everything works great and I get accurate readings.

 

I used the support tube for the dash for the ground and mounted the lc-1 control unit under the passenger side carpet on the propeller shaft hump. No issue with mine. Got the power from the radio +12V.