Cool i will lower it through the xede and give it another shot tomarrow.

 

Look at your IPW in respect to TPS!

Your running it dry

 

What are the actual settings in the XEDE maps?

Remember that the Xede intercepts the MAF and Cam angle sensor and alters the signal, therefore the data your seeing is what the ECU is running according to MAF input. You need to be sure that when you base tune the car, you have all of the maps in the XEDE Zeroed out, or you remove it. Otherwise you may be tuning on top of an existing Xede map.

 

Are you saying im running out of injector or fuel?

I was going to alter the map on the xede right or should i alter the ecu? Do you wana have a look at my xede maps, I dont wana post them but I could send em to ya?

 

whenever you dial out cam overlap, you are raising dynamic compression. this will cause you to have to run less ignition timing in general.

IMO, I would 86 that xede and run strait stock ECU and tune it with ECUFlash. All engines and setups are different and have different needs, but you should start at 3-4* ignition at peak VE(peak torque) at the 240 load range between 3000-4000 rpm and about 13-14* at peak power in the 190load range. all ranges in between should be slowley advanced until knock is seem, then retarded 1-2 degs across the board for safety. If you could do this on a dyno, that would be best as you could see your torque curve's effects from timing.

CJ

 

In my experience those west coast tunes run excessively lean. In conjunction with likely 5* too much timing throughout the map you are sure putting that knock sensor to use.

 

you should get a wideband and make logs with it
when he said drying out he meant lean condition

 

Not sure if your load calc is low in respect to IPW, or IPW is low in respect to load but they are both unusually low

Not sure if the knock has anything to do with that above but something is wrong

Your timing is not too high from what we can see because your only hitting 190% load which is as low as stock ROM

 

The load is likely low because the XEDE is lowering the MAF signal which in turn raises the ignition timing. It appears the timing is too high as a result.

 

like I recommended above, its best to delete the piggyback and tune the stock ECU. another reason why I don't like piggybacks of any sort. there is always a draw back from altering signals to trick the ECU. no matter if the ECU is speed/density(using a MAP sensor voltage clamp piggyback) or a ECU that uses a MAF sensor like ours. piggybacks are just bandaids.... not real tuning solutions. The stock ECU does a great job, especially now that we can flash it to do what ever we wish in terms of fuel/ignition.

CJ

 

Reason #752 why some piggy backs are best left alone.

 

Ditch the XEDE, sorry

 

I retract my statement about tuning your self. DON'T tune a thing until you get a wideband o2s installed and running. I failed to realize you are not using a WB. You see, you are prolly running super lean and are running about 5* more ignition timing that you should. This is causing your detonation issues. PLus, you are releying on the stock knock sensor and it's knock protocols to retard ignition timing for you.....this is a bad thing.

Keep in mind, when you mess with timing, your AFR's will be thrown off. For instance, when you retard ignition timing, your AFR's will show richer, the more you retard ignition timing the more it effects AFR's. It's reverse when you advance ignition timing, AFR's will show leaner and fuel will need to be added.

It's best to get a WB 02s no matter what you decide to do. I seriously recommend the Innovate LC-1. IMHO, it is the best WB on the market and uses the common and reletively cheap Bosch LSU 4.2 Wideband sensor. Innovate is able to poll this wideband at a very high rate, which makes it the fastest sampling WB controller on the market. This makes spoting things like misfires very very easy.

Either WB you choose, make sure you get one and calibrate it correctly(so that you see true AFR's and not false readings....common mistake) before you start tuning anything.

You can, however.....retard ignition timing a few degs to help stop the detonation you are getting.

Like i stated two times earlier, i would deffinatly ditch the XEDE and at least run the stock ROM until you can get it tuned/reflashed.

CJ

 

FWIW SMART has a wideband piped into the XEDE...
I run XEDE and ran into similar problems with upper rpm knock count, not as high as supernets.

It seems the ECU does not like to have the MAF intercepted. I have tuned AFR very close to the Xede tune with ECUflash and no more knock. I still run the the XEDE to control boost and timing this allows me use the Xede to switch between 93 and 104 "tune" (zero out xede timing tables and up the boost)

 

Tell that to the thousands of SAFC and MAFTPro users worldwide.

Your claim has no merit, sorry.