How are you "smoothing" the non WOT parts of your maps?
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,493
Likes: 41
From: Atlanta, GA
How are you "smoothing" the non WOT parts of your maps?
Hi all. First of all thanks to everyone on the forum for going out there and doing stuff and making it easier for the late flashers like me to attempt to meddle with my car
.
So I am in the process of finally fixing my block 7 tune from one of the vendors on this site.
With the original tune, the car was hitting knock counts of about 12 at peak torque. I decided to wait until after I got my header (buschur coated and ported) and O2 housing installed before fixing it.
Redoing the logs with the new parts now had me hitting 16 counts of knock.
I have now gotten it down to consistently less than 4 (even got a completely clean 0 knock run at WOT from 2000-7500rpm
).
Yes I have a wideband but I haven't started messing with the fuel just yet...so thats the stock vendor map (can't show that here). It was pretty clear that the knock was probably just due to that huge block of 7s (and sure enough just getting rid of most of that block has lowered the counts).
Anway here is a subset of the high octane map. First of all does it look too tame now?
Mods are: Buschur ported and coated manifold, Megan O2 housing, TurboXS 3" downpipe, ultimate racing HFC and Greddy Evo II cat back.
2nd of all its a work in progress (as can be seen by the remnants of the 7s) but I am wondering how is everyone "smoothing" the maps? I.e getting into some of the other load cells nearby....is it just a matter of logging the car at not quite WOT in various gears? I mean I could just smooth the numbers at random myself but there is some science here right?
.
. So I am in the process of finally fixing my block 7 tune from one of the vendors on this site.
With the original tune, the car was hitting knock counts of about 12 at peak torque. I decided to wait until after I got my header (buschur coated and ported) and O2 housing installed before fixing it.
Redoing the logs with the new parts now had me hitting 16 counts of knock.
I have now gotten it down to consistently less than 4 (even got a completely clean 0 knock run at WOT from 2000-7500rpm
). Yes I have a wideband but I haven't started messing with the fuel just yet...so thats the stock vendor map (can't show that here). It was pretty clear that the knock was probably just due to that huge block of 7s (and sure enough just getting rid of most of that block has lowered the counts).
Anway here is a subset of the high octane map. First of all does it look too tame now?
Mods are: Buschur ported and coated manifold, Megan O2 housing, TurboXS 3" downpipe, ultimate racing HFC and Greddy Evo II cat back.
2nd of all its a work in progress (as can be seen by the remnants of the 7s) but I am wondering how is everyone "smoothing" the maps? I.e getting into some of the other load cells nearby....is it just a matter of logging the car at not quite WOT in various gears? I mean I could just smooth the numbers at random myself but there is some science here right?
.
Last edited by codgi; Apr 17, 2007 at 01:15 AM.
using the smoothing tool is great. ideally you don't want large jumps in timing from one cell to the next, so using the smoothing tool can fix that. also, sense the ecu is interpolating between each value in your table, having large jumps will make the drivability feel less smooth. the way i tune is locate the area in the map where it is most critical for the timing to be a certain value (generally 260load, 3000-3500 rpm) and set it to a value you know works. then find another value you know you want, say 200 load and 7000 rpm, and set it to 15. from there you can take that value and smooth it to the lower load ranges for each one, then take the 3000 rpm row and smooth it vertically to the 7000 rpm row. this will give you a good transition rate. you will have to fine tune from there, as the timing advance will not respond well to a completely linear transition like we just made. but this will get rid of all those 7's or 8's that you will see from time to time. its an art, and i promise your first few tries at it will have knock. but once you get the table smoothed out with good transitions from cell to cell, the driveability will be fantastic, and the power will be there.
tuning cell by cell is definately NOT the way to tune a car, but once you get close enough to having a great tune, sometimes it will only take just one or two cell adjustments.
my $.02
tuning cell by cell is definately NOT the way to tune a car, but once you get close enough to having a great tune, sometimes it will only take just one or two cell adjustments.
my $.02
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I agree, especially since you have 93 where you are at. I would try to induce a couple of counts of knock (meaning 1 or 2) and then back off from there.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,493
Likes: 41
From: Atlanta, GA
. I have to check AFRs and play with the fuel map next so maybe the fuel map isn't quite right. I was thinking of trying to get the car to be between 11-11.3 AFR does this sound reasonable?Either way I think this map should be ok as a new start for the low octane map.
Thanks for the replies everyone...as to why the vendor was not named I'd rather not have this deteriorate into a vendor bashing/defending session
Last edited by codgi; Apr 17, 2007 at 01:16 PM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,493
Likes: 41
From: Atlanta, GA
using the smoothing tool is great. ideally you don't want large jumps in timing from one cell to the next, so using the smoothing tool can fix that. also, sense the ecu is interpolating between each value in your table, having large jumps will make the drivability feel less smooth. the way i tune is locate the area in the map where it is most critical for the timing to be a certain value (generally 260load, 3000-3500 rpm) and set it to a value you know works. then find another value you know you want, say 200 load and 7000 rpm, and set it to 15. from there you can take that value and smooth it to the lower load ranges for each one, then take the 3000 rpm row and smooth it vertically to the 7000 rpm row. this will give you a good transition rate. you will have to fine tune from there, as the timing advance will not respond well to a completely linear transition like we just made. but this will get rid of all those 7's or 8's that you will see from time to time. its an art, and i promise your first few tries at it will have knock. but once you get the table smoothed out with good transitions from cell to cell, the driveability will be fantastic, and the power will be there.
tuning cell by cell is definately NOT the way to tune a car, but once you get close enough to having a great tune, sometimes it will only take just one or two cell adjustments.
my $.02
tuning cell by cell is definately NOT the way to tune a car, but once you get close enough to having a great tune, sometimes it will only take just one or two cell adjustments.
my $.02
Last edited by codgi; Apr 17, 2007 at 01:18 PM.
its in there. you need to highlight a row or column or just 3-4 cells in a row/column, or mulitple rows/columns, then go into the menu in the top left and to smooth vertically/horizontally depending on what way you are trying to smooth everything out. i think control H or V does it as well (it might be alt-H or alt-V).
Codgi, on our fuel here you can run 2-3* usually pretty easy and 11.3-11.5:1 AFR's in the IX's. I have tuned a fair amount of VIII's and usually can get the same setup but have to run less boost to do it (aforementioned numbers). I have no definitive proof but some of the 92 seems to be definitely more than 92 for what can be done. FWIW, I use Shell and have run timing and boost some guys on 93/94 cant do with no or very limited knock.







