Logs posted, comments plsss....
Logs posted, comments plsss....
Just got my first logs done today... few questions I would like to ask:
The data are read from:
- JDM Evo7 ECU (not flashed yet)
- stock engine
- stock exhaust
- std boost (1.25 bar)
- 95 octane in thailand, should be equiv to 89-91 in the states.
Questions:
1. looking at other logs on this board.. from 3,000-3,500 my ign are still quite high (30s) whereas others are down in the 10s/single digits already. Should I try to lower ign just before peak torque area??
2. How come my TPS readings never reach 100 at WOT? No extra carpets on the floor.
3. why are my knock sum so high?? I thought that std maps are supposed to be "conservative" but it could be that the maps are for 100 octane in Japan?.
4. Recommendations plssssss
Thank you so much
The data are read from:
- JDM Evo7 ECU (not flashed yet)
- stock engine
- stock exhaust
- std boost (1.25 bar)
- 95 octane in thailand, should be equiv to 89-91 in the states.
Questions:
1. looking at other logs on this board.. from 3,000-3,500 my ign are still quite high (30s) whereas others are down in the 10s/single digits already. Should I try to lower ign just before peak torque area??
2. How come my TPS readings never reach 100 at WOT? No extra carpets on the floor.
3. why are my knock sum so high?? I thought that std maps are supposed to be "conservative" but it could be that the maps are for 100 octane in Japan?.
4. Recommendations plssssss
Thank you so much
Last edited by erggy; Apr 30, 2007 at 09:04 PM.
Whats ur rom definition?
Check your throttle cable, or it could be the settings in Evoscan....
the reason for knock perhaps is ur hitting low load which carries higher timing. Wot at 100% will yield more load which will align with the conservative numbers on the stock map....speculation
Check your throttle cable, or it could be the settings in Evoscan....
the reason for knock perhaps is ur hitting low load which carries higher timing. Wot at 100% will yield more load which will align with the conservative numbers on the stock map....speculation
Whats ur rom definition?
Check your throttle cable, or it could be the settings in Evoscan....
the reason for knock perhaps is ur hitting low load which carries higher timing. Wot at 100% will yield more load which will align with the conservative numbers on the stock map....speculation
Check your throttle cable, or it could be the settings in Evoscan....
the reason for knock perhaps is ur hitting low load which carries higher timing. Wot at 100% will yield more load which will align with the conservative numbers on the stock map....speculation
From my ECUFLASH:
Internal ID: 98640014
Memory Model: SH7052
are these it?
With re to knocks.. i'm only getting high knock counts at high load areas and not in the 3000-4000 rpm range. but it's odd that under low load my ign are very high also
just did full 3rd gear pulls at WOT now that it stopped raining, pls see my logs below
and i'm getting scary knock sum??!!!!!!!
this car is fully stock also...
help pls.. don't wanna be blowing up my engine
and i'm getting scary knock sum??!!!!!!!
this car is fully stock also...
help pls.. don't wanna be blowing up my engine
I think that your fuel has something to do with it like you mentioned.
Ignition is pretty high from the factory because the boost isn't very high and you should be able to get away with it. Your timing advance should drop around peak torque (3500 or so) and the start to ramp back up in higher revs.
Ignition is pretty high from the factory because the boost isn't very high and you should be able to get away with it. Your timing advance should drop around peak torque (3500 or so) and the start to ramp back up in higher revs.
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I think that your fuel has something to do with it like you mentioned.
Ignition is pretty high from the factory because the boost isn't very high and you should be able to get away with it. Your timing advance should drop around peak torque (3500 or so) and the start to ramp back up in higher revs.
Ignition is pretty high from the factory because the boost isn't very high and you should be able to get away with it. Your timing advance should drop around peak torque (3500 or so) and the start to ramp back up in higher revs.
Thank you.. meaning that I should lower ign around the peak torque areas 3500++ to about.. say 6-7 and then ramp it back up a bit accoringly right? Surprise that the engine is now 30k km and still OK w/ these kinds of fuel+map
I wish I can read your Rom in my Ecuflash so I can help you more. I also wish you had an A/F meter.
Judging by your 2nd set of logs the onset of knock happens @ ~ 4500 rpm. As a quick fix I would do the following:
1. Pull 2-3* of timing from 4500 rpm to 5500 rpm in load cells 200-220
2. Pull 4* of timing from 5500 to 6000 rpm @ load 180-200
3. Pull 6* of timing from 6500 to cutoff @ load cell 180-200
Flash the ECU and do a third gear pull and check for knock. If knock is gone/reduced, then you are on the right track. If there is no effect, then you might have phantom knock. To test for phantom knock, fill 100 octane gas and log and see if the knock is gone or still there. If it is still there, then that is phantom knock. Check and see if anything is rubbing hitting the chassis that the knock sensor picks up as knock.
Judging by your 2nd set of logs the onset of knock happens @ ~ 4500 rpm. As a quick fix I would do the following:
1. Pull 2-3* of timing from 4500 rpm to 5500 rpm in load cells 200-220
2. Pull 4* of timing from 5500 to 6000 rpm @ load 180-200
3. Pull 6* of timing from 6500 to cutoff @ load cell 180-200
Flash the ECU and do a third gear pull and check for knock. If knock is gone/reduced, then you are on the right track. If there is no effect, then you might have phantom knock. To test for phantom knock, fill 100 octane gas and log and see if the knock is gone or still there. If it is still there, then that is phantom knock. Check and see if anything is rubbing hitting the chassis that the knock sensor picks up as knock.
I wish I can read your Rom in my Ecuflash so I can help you more. I also wish you had an A/F meter.
Judging by your 2nd set of logs the onset of knock happens @ ~ 4500 rpm. As a quick fix I would do the following:
1. Pull 2-3* of timing from 4500 rpm to 5500 rpm in load cells 200-220
2. Pull 4* of timing from 5500 to 6000 rpm @ load 180-200
3. Pull 6* of timing from 6500 to cutoff @ load cell 180-200
Flash the ECU and do a third gear pull and check for knock. If knock is gone/reduced, then you are on the right track. If there is no effect, then you might have phantom knock. To test for phantom knock, fill 100 octane gas and log and see if the knock is gone or still there. If it is still there, then that is phantom knock. Check and see if anything is rubbing hitting the chassis that the knock sensor picks up as knock.
Judging by your 2nd set of logs the onset of knock happens @ ~ 4500 rpm. As a quick fix I would do the following:
1. Pull 2-3* of timing from 4500 rpm to 5500 rpm in load cells 200-220
2. Pull 4* of timing from 5500 to 6000 rpm @ load 180-200
3. Pull 6* of timing from 6500 to cutoff @ load cell 180-200
Flash the ECU and do a third gear pull and check for knock. If knock is gone/reduced, then you are on the right track. If there is no effect, then you might have phantom knock. To test for phantom knock, fill 100 octane gas and log and see if the knock is gone or still there. If it is still there, then that is phantom knock. Check and see if anything is rubbing hitting the chassis that the knock sensor picks up as knock.
Let me try it tomorrow and will advise the updated logs. Never tried to reflash the ECU before.. we shall see
Just did my first tune with EcuFlash today (ign only as I don't have AFR yet).
I had to retard tons of timing to get the Knock Sum down.
Comparison file is attached below. Any comments is appreciated!!
I had to retard tons of timing to get the Knock Sum down.
Comparison file is attached below. Any comments is appreciated!!

You were knocking because your gas really sucks
Your timing is now is 4* peak and 12* redline - very conservative for some however just about right in my opinion, esp for the gas your using
After you get your wideband, keep timing about the same but lean the mix to high 11's (for starters, ..) - you should see some gains and shouldn't knock.
Ditch the cat, put in some racegas and make some more power with boost
Your timing is now is 4* peak and 12* redline - very conservative for some however just about right in my opinion, esp for the gas your using
After you get your wideband, keep timing about the same but lean the mix to high 11's (for starters, ..) - you should see some gains and shouldn't knock.
Ditch the cat, put in some racegas and make some more power with boost
Wow I got a definition file to read this guys origional timing and fuel maps.
Is it me or is the stock fuel map look kind of lean?
Injector scaling says 542 instead of a USDM 513 cc/min
Is it me or is the stock fuel map look kind of lean?
Injector scaling says 542 instead of a USDM 513 cc/min
I think what he needs to do is make the AFR richer. But he should do that once he starts logging AFR with a reliable meter.
Right now the safest oprion is to back the timing the what he has them.
You were knocking because your gas really sucks
Your timing is now is 4* peak and 12* redline - very conservative for some however just about right in my opinion, esp for the gas your using
After you get your wideband, keep timing about the same but lean the mix to high 11's (for starters, ..) - you should see some gains and shouldn't knock.
Ditch the cat, put in some racegas and make some more power with boost
Your timing is now is 4* peak and 12* redline - very conservative for some however just about right in my opinion, esp for the gas your using
After you get your wideband, keep timing about the same but lean the mix to high 11's (for starters, ..) - you should see some gains and shouldn't knock.
Ditch the cat, put in some racegas and make some more power with boost
IMO, his car was knocking because of a lean AFR AND too much timing advance while running crappy gasoline. Those JDM cars that are being shipped to non-European non-US market seem to be tuned to run on high quality Japanese gas that does not seem to be available in these markets.


