I just got my Innovate LC-1 controller with sensor today and was looking under the car to scope out my install ahead of me tomorrow. I'm getting the bung welded into the left side of the downpipe right after the oil pan. It looks like the best way is to route the wires through the passenger rubber housing in the firewall, but seems really difficult to work with that area due to it being so congested there. Does anyone have any suggestions on what I can do to make this install easier? It doesn't look like I have enough wire to run it into that rubber housing before the huge controller grows out of the o2 sensor wire. Am I supposed to leave the controller hanging in the engine bay? How did you guy mount the controller? Does the wire ever hit any spinning wheel bars near there (sorry I don't know the proper name)? Any other helpful tips would greatly be appreciated.

 

Here is where Vishnu recommends. I have had no issues with this install location.

http://www.vishnutuning.com/Smart/getting_started.htm

 

There is a hole in the "tranny tunnel" area close to where the DP terminates into the cat. You can see it if you take the plastic side panel off the "tranny tunnel" plastic part in the passenger side foot well.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...light=wideband

 

I've got QTP's downpipe with cutout though. That 'tranny tunnel' is where the cutout grows out of. I think I read that you have to put the sensor before the cutout, otherwise, you get skewed readings due to the exhaust flow changing when you open/close it, affecting AFR. Here's a pic of the downpipe:

http://www.quicktimeperformance.com/Downpipes/evodp.php

If I install it anywhere before the cutout, I can't use the 'tranny tunnel' grommet. The cable isn't long enough to reach it.

 

Here's pics from my install:

 

I brought my wires in through the main engine harness. It comes through the firewall by the passengers left foot by the center console.

 

I'm not the fastest mechanic, so it took me the full day to install this thing with my car on ramps--very cramped down there. Welding took 2hrs at a family shop and then the downpipe took me 2hrs to put back--those damn spring bolts are hell. I have my bung welded in exactly the way Mellon has it, and then I took kreionic's advice and threaded the wires into the main engine harness firewall rubber housing (this part was actually pretty easy). Thanks a lot guys for helping me out. I'm gonna go test this out now.

 

I think I'm gonna install my lc-1 right now. I really REALLY need to get it in, isn't that right chris haha

 

on the tanabe dp it has a bung on it already would that work for a good mount?

 

no...the bung is for egt and isnt big enough for an o2 sensor. Put the bung at the end of the DP right before the cat, pointing up and very slightly to the passenger side. There is a grommet right above there that comes into the cabin by the passenger left foot underneath the shifter console.

 

Where did you get the bung to weld in to the QTP downpipe? Came with the innovative wideband?? Could you please pm me that info!
Thanks,

 

 

yes, they came with the wideband, and i have spares laying around as well. Most of your welding shops also have O2 bungs.

 

could you just weld another bung in the test pipe if your catless? this would make it easier then having to take the downpipe off.
ed

 

you could yes... but if you ever need to put the cat back on for any reason then you will have a floating wideband sensor for awhile... but you can put it in the testpipe.