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Old Jul 26, 2007 | 05:21 AM
  #16  
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C6 what would you consider running AFR wise?

Fuel is Australian 98RON (Caltex Vortex 98), which I think is equiv of 93PON (US standard?)

I am attempting to lean out the 6500-7500 to about 11.3 ish, that should fix my IDC's as well!
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Old Jul 26, 2007 | 06:08 AM
  #17  
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Richen it up a bit between 3-4k, and take some out up top from 5500-7000. You should see load increase when you take some fuel out uptop.
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Old Jul 26, 2007 | 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by tephra
C6 what would you consider running AFR wise?

Fuel is Australian 98RON (Caltex Vortex 98), which I think is equiv of 93PON (US standard?)

I am attempting to lean out the 6500-7500 to about 11.3 ish, that should fix my IDC's as well!


Get that 12* at 6000RPM down to 11*, if your over 11.3 or more and get respective knock, then pull a little timing. For racefuel lean it out and add in boost.

Keep in mind most my exp is with methanol injection and not 93 only, so try it out to see if it works for you first. But your car looks like it's pulling hard on spool from the log, esp for only 19.5psi
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Old Jul 26, 2007 | 05:12 PM
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pull timing? I haven't even added to the stock timing maps yet

i am just taking a look at my latest set of logs after changing the AFR's...
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Old Jul 26, 2007 | 05:14 PM
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The stock timing maps do not progress correctly to run smoothly with no knock once the car is modified.
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Old Jul 26, 2007 | 07:33 PM
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do you mean there are large jumps in timing which induces knock?
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Old Jul 26, 2007 | 07:37 PM
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If you changed the intake then the MAF airflow signal is off putting you in lower load cells than stock and the resultant higher timing. But hten it looks like your airbox is stock, but good to know anways.

If you don't pull out the time the ecu will

Last edited by C6C6CH3vo; Jul 26, 2007 at 07:40 PM.
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Old Jul 26, 2007 | 10:47 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by tephra
do you mean there are large jumps in timing which induces knock?
Yes. Alot of how your map looks depends on what mods you have (of course, right?) as much as what boost and AFR's you are running. Keeping the cells to within a couple of degrees of each other where the ECU doesnt have to do rapid interpolation and try to implement the changes in the same or less amount of time keeps the knock away.

JB
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Old Jul 26, 2007 | 11:56 PM
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^^ he probably has lean spool enabled and thats maybe why it goes so rich after 7k.
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Old Jul 27, 2007 | 10:10 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by codgi
^^ he probably has lean spool enabled and thats maybe why it goes so rich after 7k.
I thought for a moment but cannot understand the connection to LS and rich AFR near redline. =How does this happen?
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Old Jul 27, 2007 | 10:49 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by C6C6CH3vo
I thought for a moment but cannot understand the connection to LS and rich AFR near redline. =How does this happen?
The stock setting for LS disable is 7000 RPM. So, it will richen up after that point.


Eric
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Old Jul 27, 2007 | 03:43 PM
  #27  
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ya I would add more fuel down low, add more timing. you were knocking consistent for about 2 sec, no biggie but I would see what happens
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Old Jul 27, 2007 | 04:19 PM
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I would take out 1 degree from 3200 to 4500 and add a little fuel, maybe 0.3 units target richer. I would also take out enough fuel to get to stay between 11.5 and 11.2 up top. Finally I'd add timing in increments of 1 degree up top.
The consistent 1-2 KS @ 3200 -3700 is on the edge . On a hot day and repeated runs this will decay to 3-5 KS rapidly. Even quicker on poor gas. i'd make it a little safer.

Other points: double check for boost leaks, as load seems a little low. You might look at the one way PCV valve at the far end of the manifold. I've seen them cruddy enough so, under boost, they dont hold pressure properly. One symptom is a lazy boost onset.

I would also start my WOT runs at 2500 rpm...i'm guessing the knocksums will go down if you do. But id still take out the timing and richen it up

Milburn
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Old Jul 27, 2007 | 04:28 PM
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i hate to be off topic but i just got a reflash on my ecu from buschur..... i'll be installing an A/F autometer to make sure i'm safe. where can i learn about these ratio's and graphs? any good threads? also should i worry much about the mail in tune seems like they just guess what your car is going to be at.... i'm running upper ic, TBE, intake, walbro, mini battery, on stock boost.

thanks and sorry to be off topic maybe these guys can pm me instead of goin off topic. hey its a free bump :P
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Old Jul 27, 2007 | 04:34 PM
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I would agree with Milburn about starting your wot a little later on the rpm band.
unless of course that is your normal "hit it " point.
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