No, in fact I think it makes it worse because it lessens the amount of potential ignition and gives the charge more time to heat up. I know for a fact I had more knock with closer gaps (not just old plugs) than I did with wide gaps. I didnt change any part of the tune just threw in wider gaps and dropped knock counts.

Maybe it was just me but I do not think it helps with knock.

 

I've got comp 280's. I encounter knock all the time too, mostly at 100-160 load, full throttle. I've tried to combat this with less timing, colder plugs, ect.

The only time ive not had any knock, was on PURE 100ct, with somewhat of a mild timing map. Nothing crazy.. Its a pain in the butt, but I love the way the car feels..

 

Why do you think it's phantom knock? Cams are designed to give you more air, which leads to higher cylinder pressure and knock. Also depending on their overlap and your turbo/exhaust backpressure they will leave hot exhaust gas in the chamber, increasing IAT and again leading to detonation. Lots of variables here... It can also be tough to get rid of low load low rmp knock. Try starting a pull at 3000rpm's.

Also what is the timing? Your orig post is pretty ambiguous.

 

your in the orlando area?

i would get Jestr a buz and have him tune it he has tunned many of these setups

 

I'd like to rebleed my lifters as I'm sure many would.. but I've pulled the valve cover off thinking I'd be able to get them out with out pulling the cams and I just don't believe it can be done. I need some kinda serious directions and pictures to be able to do that. People say its possible. Anyone care to divulge in great detail?

I do get phantom knock from my lifters but the heck if I'm gonna take my cams out AGAIN to bleed em.

 

Here's an autocross lap with the 320hp tune. It's surprisingly pretty good. The only major knock areas are at the 2500rpm section.
http://www.prismaartist.com/download...9_11.56.50.csv

 

Yesterday I had a similar issue on a car I was tuning. The owner just installed GSC S1 cams, Injen intake and intercooler pipes and a turbo back 3" exhaust setup. In order to keep knock at bay I had to pull out a lot of timing, ending up with timing several degrees less than the stock map in most of the on boost load areas. Initial knock counts were in the 6-10 region in several areas. The timing I ended up with is the lowest timing I have ever run on any Evo and most I have tuned have had cams, not the GSCs though.

The car pulls okay, but it doesn't feel exceptionally quick. The owner says it feels slightly faster but is disappointed because with all those parts it should feel a lot faster. We haven't hit the dyno yet to see what the power is like now.

I am thinking if it is not the cams it may be the intake screwing with the load reading. I am not so sure the cams would cause it htough. Someone also suggested the cam position sensor could have been re-installed incorrectly.

 

I too just Installed My S1 Cams, Also had to pull alot of timing to stop this random phantom knock...mostly around spool up but never at peak (3500-6000). Its usally a small 2 count..but has randomly hit 6-7 and then gone next pull. Sounds like alot of us have the same issue.

Yes i bled my lifters....

 

The only thing I changed in my setup was the addition of my cams and fuel pump, nothing else. Before this setup, I was easily able to tune to 0 knocks.

 

I'm wondering if the car likes richer a/f ratios than I was tuning to. Your ratios are even leaner than what I was tuning to though. I would try richening thing up somewhat.

BTW, what program did you use to get the dispalyed logs you have there?

 

from the map that is displayed by theo99 it looks like it needs more fuel in the 2500-3500 range. its too lean and will cause knock just as easy as to much timing. also remember that there is ALOT more air getting in the motor with the S1 cams over stock so part throttle fuel tuning is important.

as far as the cams causing knock there are three things, 1 cam trigger timing(which is checked on each cam before it is ground), 2 Valve springs maybe required if the valve is not closing all the way and floating (a week spring set could cause this). 3 if the cam is not spinning in the head or a mechanical knock is occurring (something that will be catastrophic quickly)