hi guys,

Been running a good for me flash for awhile. It is open loop nearly full time, but the fuel trims under closed loop were fine.
I inject water and run 12.5 from start to finish at wot.

Yesterday was going to be my big start of meth /water injection. About the time the yellow comes down I must be running 9.5 wot. When the water comes on the thing wants to quit. da. (drive to track felt normal)

So on the way home I log and it looks like I'm 2.5 points richer across the board. Idle / cruise / wot. Maybe its not quite 2.5 evenly but I'll bet it would be close if I could take that out everywhere.

Now, how did I do it? Assuming I didn't fry something with my wiring where do I check for errors in my flash?
Give me a " for idiots" primer on where the car adds fuel. Coolant etc. I thought I had those right but maybe I was going the wrong way.

Yesterday was maybe a couple of degrees warmer than my average temp on this map and the problem showed itself before the car really ever could have got really warm.


Lastly I am wondering about some sort of feed back with the water injection system (it monitors injectors) maybe I have imposed some kind of added voltage or such to them. Just in case I'm going to do another wiring sweep.

 

well, couldn't find anything obviously wrong with the wiring.

Adjusted the injector scale up... now idle/ cruise are close to before. still need to remove gas at wot.

Also getting absurd 2byte load readings. 330 @ 15 psi.
evidently the ecu thinks its for real because timing would be close or match that reading.

 

Checked your MAF?

 

Plug is fine, wires leading to maf look good. Maf screen when viewed from air filter box looks fine.

It does seem like a likely culprit, but visually it looks good. Have not been there in a long time other than to change the filter, or remove the sheebang to replace the turbo. (stockish)

Guess the next step would be to uncouple the WI system from the injection lead and see what happens. Its just a signal grabber so the WI can follow duty cycle.

 

Do a boost leak test. I just tuned a stock turbo VIII that was running 340 load at 18 psi and AFRs below 10.0:1. He had leaks at the DV return line, DV vacuum source and UICP. Fixed the leaks and he's now at 270 load at 23 psi.

 

TB,
Am in the process of fixing up a boost pressure bung. But I wonder if you remember,
did that car have over rich at idle too?

I had high hopes for a few minutes, there were a few loose screws. The afrs didn't show a difference though. So I will do the full monty with the pressure test.

 

Idle was good most of the time ... 14.5 - 15.2. But, it did go to open loop really early in a light cruise state. So, it would go to the low 13s or mid 12s at anything past like 25% throttle. every once in a while the idle would sit at 17 or 18 for a few seconds after a pull.

 

thanks TB that is what I was afraid of.

Logically a leak in the vacuum lines would go lean at idle. In my case the afr is richer all the time, as if my injector scale was 20% higher. Right now the car is ready for a leak test, as soon as the glue dries on the pressure tool I'll complete it and move on.


to recap: lower psi than normal, 3 to 4 points richer than before, really over the top loads indicated in the logs.
vacuum registers normal, psi in the logs matches the psi on the gauge.



As I recall an unplugged maf will show the same rich readings(?) But the maf looks like new, wires don't look bad.
So I may have

a bad maf?
some limp home mode I can't find... no cel

What else could it be?

 

hey guys isn't the lower intercooler pipe suppose to be attached to the ...




thanks for taking the time to help, even though it was sooooo simple.

 

lol!