HELP needed, please read
A few things to ask:
Has the car ever had cams installed even if it now has stock cams in it?
Is it 5-6* no matter what value is in the map?
Does it currently have a CEL on for something that you havent checked?
If you run the car without the MAF plugged in it will kick to an entirely different map that cruises like 2-3* max and never really seems to change (even after it has been reconnected but before the code is cleared). I would imagine that some of the other severe CEL that pop might have similar maps. For the record it is not using (in the IX I tested) the 3 low octane maps or any part of the 3 high octane maps. This is totally seperate.
Has the car ever had cams installed even if it now has stock cams in it?
Is it 5-6* no matter what value is in the map?
Does it currently have a CEL on for something that you havent checked?
If you run the car without the MAF plugged in it will kick to an entirely different map that cruises like 2-3* max and never really seems to change (even after it has been reconnected but before the code is cleared). I would imagine that some of the other severe CEL that pop might have similar maps. For the record it is not using (in the IX I tested) the 3 low octane maps or any part of the 3 high octane maps. This is totally seperate.
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From: South Florida
A few things to ask:
Has the car ever had cams installed even if it now has stock cams in it?
Is it 5-6* no matter what value is in the map?
Does it currently have a CEL on for something that you havent checked?
If you run the car without the MAF plugged in it will kick to an entirely different map that cruises like 2-3* max and never really seems to change (even after it has been reconnected but before the code is cleared). I would imagine that some of the other severe CEL that pop might have similar maps. For the record it is not using (in the IX I tested) the 3 low octane maps or any part of the 3 high octane maps. This is totally seperate.
Has the car ever had cams installed even if it now has stock cams in it?
Is it 5-6* no matter what value is in the map?
Does it currently have a CEL on for something that you havent checked?
If you run the car without the MAF plugged in it will kick to an entirely different map that cruises like 2-3* max and never really seems to change (even after it has been reconnected but before the code is cleared). I would imagine that some of the other severe CEL that pop might have similar maps. For the record it is not using (in the IX I tested) the 3 low octane maps or any part of the 3 high octane maps. This is totally seperate.
It is 5-6* no matter what value is in the map.
No CEL at all.
Can't figure out what it is. That's why I keep asking if I should change the plugs.
When did this start? I mean what events happened with the ECU or motor at the same time this happened? I would assume tuning but was there anything else that happened? Bad plugs cause misfires generally, but its a cheap thing to do especially if they are the stockers.
What you seem to be missing is that the ECU will run the desired timing UNLESS there is knock.
If the plugs are ****ed then the ECU will still try and run the timing from the map...
Which is WHY is said its probably a definition problem.
post up a log + the current ROM.. That's if you really want help...
If the plugs are ****ed then the ECU will still try and run the timing from the map...
Which is WHY is said its probably a definition problem.
post up a log + the current ROM.. That's if you really want help...
Sorry for the late posting...
Pretty much heres a quick background on the car... Admir recently bought the car so we did the usual bolt ons and tuned it. Everything went well, normal timing across the board, no issues.
Fast forward a few months, add couple new parts , megan o2 housing being one of them. When we went back for the tune the car wasn't running anywhere near normal timing, 5-6 degrees peak...
After some digging around Admir found an exhaust leak and is now running 8-9 deg timing. The car just refuses to run more... I'm stumped at this point.
We pulled the plugs and they looked fine. Thats the next step that should have been done already... cough Admir, get on that... cough.
The car itself is in fantastic shape, runs excellent, no obvious issues with anything. Minus the minor exhaust leak between the manifold and turbo that was fixed everything has been properly installed by Admir.
What would cause the sudden change in the car? I'm currently out of town so i can post up the timing and fuel maps. The map is very conservative as of right now... Approx 11.3 afr, 21 pounds of boost and max timing possible.
Any and all help would be appreciated!
Cheers!
Pretty much heres a quick background on the car... Admir recently bought the car so we did the usual bolt ons and tuned it. Everything went well, normal timing across the board, no issues.
Fast forward a few months, add couple new parts , megan o2 housing being one of them. When we went back for the tune the car wasn't running anywhere near normal timing, 5-6 degrees peak...
After some digging around Admir found an exhaust leak and is now running 8-9 deg timing. The car just refuses to run more... I'm stumped at this point.
We pulled the plugs and they looked fine. Thats the next step that should have been done already... cough Admir, get on that... cough.
The car itself is in fantastic shape, runs excellent, no obvious issues with anything. Minus the minor exhaust leak between the manifold and turbo that was fixed everything has been properly installed by Admir.
What would cause the sudden change in the car? I'm currently out of town so i can post up the timing and fuel maps. The map is very conservative as of right now... Approx 11.3 afr, 21 pounds of boost and max timing possible.
Any and all help would be appreciated!
Cheers!
What you seem to be missing is that the ECU will run the desired timing UNLESS there is knock.
If the plugs are ****ed then the ECU will still try and run the timing from the map...
Which is WHY is said its probably a definition problem.
post up a log + the current ROM.. That's if you really want help...
If the plugs are ****ed then the ECU will still try and run the timing from the map...
Which is WHY is said its probably a definition problem.
post up a log + the current ROM.. That's if you really want help...
I dont believe thats the issue because nothings changed since. The car has ran fine at one point. As soon as i have a chance we'll do that.
Cheers!
well 8-9 degs of timing isn't too bad. better than 5-6 as originally posted.
still post up a log or a 3rd gear pull... takes 5 mins todo...
edit - I forgot to say - what happens when you try to run more than 9*?
still post up a log or a 3rd gear pull... takes 5 mins todo...
edit - I forgot to say - what happens when you try to run more than 9*?
Last edited by tephra; Sep 4, 2008 at 09:36 PM.
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
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From: South Florida
It isn't great, when you can run 15+, so right now I am down about 20-30whp. I can't run anymore timing than that no matter what we set the timing to. Tamer has the timing set to 15+ I believe and it only runs 8-9* like he said.
If you go beyond the map's load scale it will pull timing from the last value it reads.
I never was able to run more than 9 or 10* at peak (no counts)
Right now the car runs 5 - 6 - 5 (4000 - 5000 rpm) when 6 - 7 - 6 is on the map.
If you place like 20 * in there (just an example!) at peak and get no knock, the timing value will depend on load, temp, baro, and something else, and will probably lead about 10*
I'd guess a sparkplug won't cause the ECU to lead +/- timing directly, but it can affect the spark lag which dictates where peak pressure is for X* of ecu and logged advance (you will still log close to what the map is).
Why not keep the 5* and make power from AFR and boost? That way some of the power won't be wasted trying to spin the engine backwards, and less wear and tear
I never was able to run more than 9 or 10* at peak (no counts)
Right now the car runs 5 - 6 - 5 (4000 - 5000 rpm) when 6 - 7 - 6 is on the map.
If you place like 20 * in there (just an example!) at peak and get no knock, the timing value will depend on load, temp, baro, and something else, and will probably lead about 10*
I'd guess a sparkplug won't cause the ECU to lead +/- timing directly, but it can affect the spark lag which dictates where peak pressure is for X* of ecu and logged advance (you will still log close to what the map is).
Why not keep the 5* and make power from AFR and boost? That way some of the power won't be wasted trying to spin the engine backwards, and less wear and tear
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
iTrader: (13)
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 853
Likes: 3
From: South Florida
If you go beyond the map's load scale it will pull timing from the last value it reads.
I never was able to run more than 9 or 10* at peak (no counts)
Right now the car runs 5 - 6 - 5 (4000 - 5000 rpm) when 6 - 7 - 6 is on the map.
If you place like 20 * in there (just an example!) at peak and get no knock, the timing value will depend on load, temp, baro, and something else, and will probably lead about 10*
I'd guess a sparkplug won't cause the ECU to lead +/- timing directly, but it can affect the spark lag which dictates where peak pressure is for X* of ecu and logged advance (you will still log close to what the map is).
Why not keep the 5* and make power from AFR and boost? That way some of the power won't be wasted trying to spin the engine backwards, and less wear and tear
I never was able to run more than 9 or 10* at peak (no counts)
Right now the car runs 5 - 6 - 5 (4000 - 5000 rpm) when 6 - 7 - 6 is on the map.
If you place like 20 * in there (just an example!) at peak and get no knock, the timing value will depend on load, temp, baro, and something else, and will probably lead about 10*
I'd guess a sparkplug won't cause the ECU to lead +/- timing directly, but it can affect the spark lag which dictates where peak pressure is for X* of ecu and logged advance (you will still log close to what the map is).
Why not keep the 5* and make power from AFR and boost? That way some of the power won't be wasted trying to spin the engine backwards, and less wear and tear