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Evo 8 ECU in my 2g DSM, help please!

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Old Jan 3, 2009 | 12:34 AM
  #16  
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From: miami
did u get it working?? that info is from aktive matrix by the way to give them props.. But u essentially need 2 datalink connections to work.. On data connection from 62 from the ecu should goto the tactrix cable on obd 7 pin and ecu pin 79 goes to the clear connector on pin 26 (according to the Mitsu Schematic, its the bottom right pin if you look at your connector with the Tang up).. So with the ur ecu connected wire these two pins in correctly and u should be able to read and write..
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Old Jan 10, 2009 | 04:14 PM
  #17  
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Just finished talking my buddy through this swap, we got the ecu to flash no problems and the car to start with the immobilizer disabled. Only problem is now the car won't shut off lol. Take the key out completely and it keeps running and the only way to shut the car off is with a kill switch he has on the fuel pump. Have any of you guys run into this at all? I think he's got some major wiring issues though too, as he's throwing codes for the crank and cam sensor since he swapped to a 1g setup CAS. Any ideas?
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Old Jan 11, 2009 | 09:25 AM
  #18  
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sounds like a nightmare..
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Old Jan 11, 2009 | 09:28 AM
  #19  
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Maybe the pin 12 and 25 on the ecu plug are connected directly to the battery (and not to the mpi relais). Or turbo timer is still on.
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Old Jan 11, 2009 | 09:40 AM
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sounds like a good thought
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Old Jan 11, 2009 | 12:41 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Slo_crx1
Just finished talking my buddy through this swap, we got the ecu to flash no problems and the car to start with the immobilizer disabled. Only problem is now the car won't shut off lol. Take the key out completely and it keeps running and the only way to shut the car off is with a kill switch he has on the fuel pump. Have any of you guys run into this at all? I think he's got some major wiring issues though too, as he's throwing codes for the crank and cam sensor since he swapped to a 1g setup CAS. Any ideas?
if the fuel pump is wired direct that will happen ,,put a relay on it and switch the relay with the oe fuel pump wire
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Old Jan 11, 2009 | 02:00 PM
  #22  
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Well, what happened is that the pin that must be changed for the fuel pump relay broke while pulling it out. So I just left it disconnected because my thought was I didnt have the fuel pump wired that way so no big deal. Im thinking its causing a problem through the circuit keep the car on, maybe after I hook the relay back up it will work. The wire for the fuel pump through the relay is still hooked up but I ran a hardwire to the pump from the battery with an inline fuse and a switch because there was a problem with the wiring. Im going to hook the pin back up using one of the other pins I had to take out for the swap and see if that works. Any input?
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Old Jan 11, 2009 | 02:02 PM
  #23  
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From: Carbondale, PA
Originally Posted by Deepnine
Maybe the pin 12 and 25 on the ecu plug are connected directly to the battery (and not to the mpi relais). Or turbo timer is still on.
turbo timer wasnt even on. I would consider this but the car started and turned off normally before the swap. I didnt change the wiring for the ignition
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Old Jan 11, 2009 | 06:40 PM
  #24  
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From: Simpson, PA
We'll have to check that pump wiring then. I already had him disable the periphery bit for the fuel temp code since he was tossing one for that too. Also, any thoughts as to why he's getting a crank sensor and cam sensor code? He has it wired for a 1g CAS, although we may have to go back over the wiring again. I hope the Evo ecu has no problems with the signal from it.

Last edited by Slo_crx1; Jan 11, 2009 at 06:44 PM.
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Old Jan 12, 2009 | 12:29 PM
  #25  
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From: Carbondale, PA
Originally Posted by todd6027
if the fuel pump is wired direct that will happen ,,put a relay on it and switch the relay with the oe fuel pump wire
Checked the wires again for the fuel pump relay, it was connected I got it confused with a different wire . So now everything is hooked up the way its supposed to be and the car still doesnt shut down without flipping the fuel pump switch. Please explain why the factory wire has to be in use for the evo ecu . Thanks
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Old Feb 4, 2009 | 05:57 AM
  #26  
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I am having a similar communication problem with a car I just converted. The ECU can be flashed if placed in a different car and when placed in the problem car it will start the car and I can datalog. Does this mean the problem is with the wire to pin 79?
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Old Feb 9, 2009 | 07:40 PM
  #27  
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My friends 98 GSX is running a fully functional Evo ECU, flashes perfect all is good. Problem is, it's bone stock other than the ECU so it see's loads in the 160-180 range and knocks like a woodpecker at 2500 rpm, light throttle for no reason whatsoever, not it boost, at cruise.

It pulls 12 points of timing with 36 counts of knock at the same point over and over. 2000-3000 rpm, load ranges from 60-85 or so. Once you slam the throttle it goes away but still picks up a ton of knock randomly. I have come to the conclusion that much like the 2G ecu was more sensitive than the 1G, so is the Evo to the 2G. There is no other reason for it to do what it is doing. I rescaled the ignition and fuel maps to better suit his max loads, and adjusted everything for the T-25 turbo by bringing fuel on soon and ramping timing off earlier. No matter what I added or took away, same thing 36 counts of knock.

I thought it may have something to do with the OL load settings so I dropped those but no luck. Also his Maf g/sec is reading somewhere are 900 or so at WOT, so there is something wrong with that setup. He might need an Evo Maf instead but who knows. I put him back on his stock ECU for now but if anyone has any idea, I'm all ears.

/brox
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Old Feb 9, 2009 | 07:45 PM
  #28  
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From: Jamaica
Originally Posted by Broxma
My friends 98 GSX is running a fully functional Evo ECU, flashes perfect all is good. Problem is, it's bone stock other than the ECU so it see's loads in the 160-180 range and knocks like a woodpecker at 2500 rpm, light throttle for no reason whatsoever, not it boost, at cruise.

It pulls 12 points of timing with 36 counts of knock at the same point over and over. 2000-3000 rpm, load ranges from 60-85 or so. Once you slam the throttle it goes away but still picks up a ton of knock randomly. I have come to the conclusion that much like the 2G ecu was more sensitive than the 1G, so is the Evo to the 2G. There is no other reason for it to do what it is doing. I rescaled the ignition and fuel maps to better suit his max loads, and adjusted everything for the T-25 turbo by bringing fuel on soon and ramping timing off earlier. No matter what I added or took away, same thing 36 counts of knock.

I thought it may have something to do with the OL load settings so I dropped those but no luck. Also his Maf g/sec is reading somewhere are 900 or so at WOT, so there is something wrong with that setup. He might need an Evo Maf instead but who knows. I put him back on his stock ECU for now but if anyone has any idea, I'm all ears.

/brox
I can give you the compensation for the 2g MAF, it is quite different to the 8 MAF. It is the same as what is in the Evo I so I had to do the compensation for the 8 ECU I am running in my car.
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Old Feb 9, 2009 | 08:28 PM
  #29  
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I would love that if you have it. He may have rescaled it using some other numbers he had but I'm not sure. I'd like to check it though to be sure. PM it to me if you could and thanks.

/brox
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Old Feb 10, 2009 | 07:02 AM
  #30  
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From: Jamaica
Originally Posted by Broxma
I would love that if you have it. He may have rescaled it using some other numbers he had but I'm not sure. I'd like to check it though to be sure. PM it to me if you could and thanks.

/brox

Okay. I will send it to you this evening.
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