You could also try adjusting the "Idle Stability Timing Control" sensitivity and/or timing limit values for a more aggressive idle control via timing.

 

its still all over the place for afrs after i upped the timing a little, and it still surges, i'm pretty sure thats due to my intake, i have to try and scale that..

 

I would say you need to get the intake working well with the MAF first. Do you have the stock intake pipe? Put this back on and get the idle worked out, then work on the intake pipe.

 

+1 on that ! !

I did this. It works great to get into the ball park. Then you will be able to his that home run with ease.

 

yeah i still have the stock tube for it, i was contemplating putting that back on, i wish i could've gotten the idle worked out before i put my cams in, so i guess i gotta do it the other way

 

Put ithe rubber tube back in so that you can get the car to idle.

Scale your injectors to get them as close to 0% as possible. There is a ton of postings on scalings to get you started. To speed up the process each time to change a scaling value disconnect the battery and then try to start the car to clear any residual memory. Then reconnect the battery, flash in the new scaling values, and let the car idle for about 16 minutes. Your LTFT low should adjust rather quickly. Repeat the process over and over until you are happy with the trim. For the LTFT mid, just go for a drive and hold a consistant rpm on a level surface, again for at lease 16 minutes. Don't disconnect the battery for adjusting the LTFT Mid. It adjusts quickly.

Once you are happy with the trims the nest step is to ensure your BISS is set correctly. Just start the car, make sure it is warm. Activate the BISS actuator. Your car should remain ideling but a bit rough. I had to make a small tweek (I mean very small) to my BISS to maintain idle. Then for safe measure put a rubber plug into the BISS screw hole to protect against potential leaks.

Once you are happy with the stock rubber tube idle, pull it out and put in the hard pipe. Then start scaling your MAF until your LTFT trims come back into spec with the stock rubber tube values.

 

ok so should i even scale my stock injectors?

 

I would check to see if your scalings are correct for stock injectors.

The next step for you would be to scale the MAF.

 

the scaling for it looked right, it was 513 in dont have any of the other numbers though

 

how would i know where to scale my maf? it idles around 37.5hz to 43.75 for quite awhile, then it starts going crazy and the stft's start dropping down from the 15-20 that they were at, they drop down into the negatives, and the hz is still going all crazy but smoothes out towards the end, and yet the stft are still dropping.... i havent put the stock pipe on since its cold out right now

 

Not sure where the thread is, but if you search you will find the thread talking about scaling the MAF and a spreadsheet on how to do it.

 

It sounds to me that you will need to raise the values in the lower Hz rows. These are the ones in with the lowest values. If that makes sense?

The "How to scale your MAF" post should prove worthy of giving you all you will need to get the job done.

 

Here is the template that was created by a board member to help scale the MAF.

Edit: Here is a link to a MAF Scaling thread
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ec...hout-pics.html

Try this file. Download then change the file from a .txt to a .xls

 

What opens that????

 

The link should take you right to a Evom.net thread. The other is a zip file that I created using winrar. Has an Excel file inside.