Advancing it picked up midrange, according to my notes.

I actually went up to 2 degrees advanced and that's where it saw considerable top end losses but picked up mid range. 1 degree just got lost in run to run variance when testing.

It been awhile since I looked but these FP/Comp 280+ cams seemed like that had pretty low overlap. I'd have to look around to find the cam cards though.

It could just be related to the fast ramp rates and short advertised duration of these cams. Either way, for overall powerband, FP got it right. 0/0 FTMFW

 

48deg F weather in Florida is how. I laughed when it popped open, it was classic. I used to my change holder popping open and quarters and dimes popping out...this was something else lol

Wastegate preload helps. A nice aftermarket wastegate helps during spool. Smaller intake cam.

 

I loved when I would put change in the lower cubby and take off quick.....the change would jump into the cup holder.....PRICELESS!

I agree about the smaller intake cam. My Revolvers make great torque. The point of my discussion here it to get our "tuners" out there to give some insight into what is being done to make more power in our cars. Frankly, I am getting sent PMs all of the time to help someone tune their car. By having a better knowledge base of "How To" these tuning rookies can try to do more on their own.

Think of this as one "little guy" helping another. Heck, tunes are not cheap and times are tough....lol.

 

tunes and installs are not cheap at all. Most tuners won't chime in due them wanting to keep the tricks hush. However, they will use the workings of ecu flash findings to their own benefits without a thank you. sucks

 

Here is a trick I learned from my drag racing days years ago in HS.

Rotational mass is the engines enemy. By replacing heavy pulleys with lightweight aluminum you allow the engine to spin faster and easier. Problem with the Evo is that the only company that makes a full set of pulleys is Unorthodox and they are not cheap. A full set of pulleys will save several pounds in rotational mass and free up a ton of torque.

As for tuning to get better spool and more torque I found that a little more fuel goes a long way in making more torque.

On the topic of aluminum....why doesn't more turbo companies make compressor wheels out of aluminum? Saves a ton of rotational mass....turbos will spin easier and much faster.

Is there any company out there that makes ball bearing replacements for the stock size turbo bushings?

 

Huh? Most compressor wheels are aluminum.

The light ones are magnesium. They also blow up... Well, at least the magnesium 16G does.

 

Thanks for the education. AGAIN....sheesh you always get me. : )

 

There are actually companies that do ball bearing conversions to 16gs. I guess they just put in a new cartridge. Unfortunately, it costs thousands...

I wonder if the magnesium evo 9 compressor wheel ever became reliable. I heard about failures, but only in 2005, shortly after they were released.

d

 

There are a lot of UK companies that have used Titanium compressor wheels. Also you could send your turbo to the UK companies that converts Mitsu turbos to dual ball bearing. It would be like having a FPRED spool faster than a evo 8 turbo.

Sometimes porting and opening up flow (i.e bigger IC) slows response and "spool". Focus more on how quick your car revs out other than full spool by **** Rpm. TQ moves the mass HP keeps it going. Depending on your mod timing is what will achieve what you want.

Here is a Evo 9 91oct 28 psi with a 50/50 injection timing map. This thing is FAST! This car still using Lean spool which I use on every car I tune.

 

If one to maybe 3 hundred rpm spool (UK results) is worth the $$$ for the conversion then yeah send your turbo to UK for BB cartridge. I briefly looked into this a while back but read on the UK Evo forums that dyno testing proved that for most the $$$ did not justify the faster spool.

PS Rumor has it some of the turbo modifiers are/were working on a more cost efective BB converted standard frame style turbo. Who knows how/if progress or still being considered.

 

^^^ I agree....

If I wanted amazing TQ I would turn the boost to the MAX (35 + psi) and turn the timing up all the way... Just like a rally car!!! Then it comes down to fuel...

 

So what about intake pipes before the throttle body? Should they be as large as possible or smaller to keep pressure and volume up?

My HKS pipes taper out to the turbo, then taper into the FMIC then taper again at the merge to the upper pipe. Each taper is about 1/4 inch larger each time.

I've seen other pipe setups that have one taper out of the turbo and maintain consistent to the throttle body.

 

This statement is an oxymoron. Pressure and volume are inversely proportional. You want consistant diameter with long bends to decrease head loss from piping. It is VERY miniscule when talking about these flows and these dimensions though. If you have ANY aftermarket piping you won't gain anything appreciable by changing without ditching the IC all together.

 

For those that run meth, how about having it start sooner so more timing can be used. Nitrous will help out spool more than the tune alone, had to say it.

 

Huh ? ?