no i never logged speed with the evo yet. I'll keep the boost down when i get my motor back together and prob change the clutch out. I dont wanna change it out right now cause i need to be able to break the motor in

it was weird when it was slipping tho to shootout. I had the car only running off wastegate so it couldnt have been that much torque. (25psi)... driving at a consistent 80mph~ didnt help it im sure though.

 

I was gonna say lol... Late forum trolling much?? lol j/k j/k

The plots do look like the fuel was a bit richer on 3 anyways... which would explain why hp dove a bit and torque jumped obviously because of the timing change

Bro I just read your sig! Are you kidding me.?

That sucks sooo bad!

 

timing looks the same from the 2 logs comparison. Ya after 850-900 miles trip it must of burned 2-3 qts of oil. I even checked the oil level before I left for the trip and put another quarter quart or so in there to make it full. Its a shame. I never took the car on a long trip like that before so I didnt know what to expect.

I had bad sunburn from the trip so the car sat a few days after we got back, then i drove it and tuned it on a 30psi tune and all was still well.. except for when i went to back it into my driveway it almost sounded lik the motor was trying to seize up.. and it shut down.. was very hard to start back up.. i didnt think nothing of it.. so i parked it and went inside. the following day i did some work under the hood .. i didnt even think to check oil level at all. started car.. it started right up.. so i figured ok the seize bit from the other night was just something stupid.. checked AEM gauge it showed 10-15psi at idle im thinking OH CRAP.. that cant be right.. Like a complete IDIOT I took the car around the block to see if the oil pressure would go up without even thinking to check the oil level and halfway through the block I hear this TICK noise.. first it sounded like a lifter tick, then it got louder and louder.. then it was to late.

Sad story and even sadder ripping a motor apart that looks practically new inside with less then 5k miles on it. Buschur Racing helped me a great deal though.. They rebuilt the shortblock for me and basically charged me for parts only.. I am very pleased with how that was handled. I should have it back together here in a week. its in my garage waiting. I do all my own work, minus the shortblock internal stuff.. im to afraid to get into that part of it.

 

Im actually building a 2.4 and trying to decide between FP Red , Black or T3 HTA3582 , PTE6262. Tending towards the red or black seeing your HP and especially torque figures . I love torque. Does your car spin 3rd as well on street tires?

 

I don't have much experience with built motors, but I'm surprised it was loose enough to burn that much oil. Is that typical for the Buschur builds or any built motor?

Out of curiosity, are you running a breather filter on the valve cover vent or routed back into the intake pipe? With just a breather filter, it's tough to evac all of the crankcrase pressure, which in turn can cause you to burn more oil. I know that Burschur usually always uses a breather filter and doesn't route the line back in with a catch can.

I have seen people even on stock engines have blow-by issues and dipstick blowing out issues because of that. I have never had to add a drop of oil to my car ever, and that's even going 6k in between Amsoil changes. Just something to think about, just in case it may help with the future build.

 

black.. for sure. with a 2.4 and black youre looking at 30psi by 3800-3900rpm range and 8k rev's all day long.. the black will hold power uptop also. 2.4 is like a well balanced 2.3. Only reason im reusing 2.3 again is cause i wasnt done enjoying it yet lol.

I dont spin hardly at all anymore after i did suspension tweaks.


Megan Street coilovers
Whiteline Front Roll kit
Agency Power Front trans mount
Energy Suspension Bushings
SSR D5R 18x9 Custom Wheels
255/35R-18 Bridgestone Potenza RE-11

With the old suspension with teins and 235's it did spin 3rd ya. The car was not safe with the old suspension. Do not skimp on suspension man, otherwise you will end up wrecking your car or just spinning like hell and not putting the power down.

 

The black seem to do the job as i only want 600whp with a bout 550 torque. should b allot of fun. There is nothing better than seeing a 4WD smoking those 4 tires. Makes honda guys **** their pants lol

 

His motors from what I understand are built with less tolerance to last longer with major abuse. This is something you might want to ask David yourself though, I dont want to speak for him.

I wasnt using anything out of the norm. I just used a stock pcv from the head to intake mani and then ran the side vent port of the valve cover to the air intake. I did see some oil in my intake runners, but none at all in the air intake.

I am gonna drill out the valve cover so i can run some huge custom lines like the road course guys do and drag guys.

 

with a 2.4 and fp black 600 /550 can be done in your sleep with the proper supporting mods. its all about the mods you choose.. you must choose wisely. me for example.. im down some power, because of my poor choice in intake manifold and stock maf still, and restrictive TBE. Not saying my intake manifold isnt good, but for a stroker its a known fact that theres better styles out there then OEM.

 

One other note about your clutch slipping:

Since you don't log speed, for your logs that you used in the VD plots on the last page. If you just plot RPM in Excel or something, do you see any place where the RPM comes back down while accelerating?

It may be very hard to see with simple 1byte RPM logging under heavy acceleration. But worth a shot.

 

I dont have E85 here so I have to use VP or pump and meth so Im doing as you said as in choosing my supporting mods wisely. Took me a while to decide on cams. Settled with the JUN 272s. I also have a JM fab o2 dump but that **** is loud!! along with this I have all Buschur parts (race intercooler, piping , intake, ported ex mani etc

 

heres what you need for your goal 100%

built 2.4
built head
fic 2150cc (not needed so large but why not? lol)
br double pump
garrett 3.8" core fmic
kelford272, fp cams, br cams, gsc custom grind cams, etc
any non restrictive 3" tbe
shearer o2 dump
magnus v5 / ams f1i, etc
exedy twin/triple / quartermaster etc
65mm tb
fp black ported + 25psi wg
hallman pro mbc / ebc. etc.. w/e
good bov.. forge, tial, turbosmart, etc
upper/lower ic piping - best bang for buck is muse stuff.
stock ecu tune + speed density conversion
ARP l19
fluidampr crank pulley
stock ign or aftermarket cop, etc



I think thats everything. with those mods you should make your goal by like 29-30psi

for security i also go with kiggly pressure regulator in the head, which keeps more oil in the pan where it belongs.

 

Gotcha!!

 

When he mentioned air temps affecting your HP/TQ numbers, it's not just from the ecu pulling a little timing. Engines make more horsepower in colder weather no matter what. The air is more dense so more gets into the cylinders under the same boost levels. This is why it's hard to compare dyno sheets from shops that will do pulls in the winter without weather correction. On high powered cars I have seen as much as 40whp from a pull on a 15* day vs. a 85* day.

 

ya I know how it works. These were all done back to back with taking 5minute breaks or so. Timing is the same at peak so theres no reason for one pull to have 40wtq gone vs the others.. might be the rpm starting point, since whenever you start a pull early you get more of a torque spike vs starting it later in the rpm. im gonna look more into it on my end. the clutch looks good as far as i can see when i looked at it. looks the same as it did when i put it on new.. no burn spots nothin bad.