Ok. My Evo won't start. No fuel, no spark. No cels. I don't even get a cel with the cps disconnected, which I always have before during compression checks. I did get a cel when I disconnected the maf though. Fuel pump doesn't prime when you turn on the key. It will run with evoscan so I know that's all good. I've checked cas, cps, coolant temp sensor. All good. All fuses are good. I can't find anything disconnected, etc. under the hood.

I've checked the injectors. They're good and they're getting power. Evoscan can't fire the injectors either, but it does show a pulsewidth during cranking. Like 35.*** ms or something like that. As far as I can tell from the diagrams in the service manual there's the MFI relay (power supply) to the resistor box, to the injectors, to the ecu. This leads me to believe that the ecu is bad, especially since evoscan can't fire the injectors. I listened with a stethoscope, nothing. Measured for the voltage to drop across the plug when it's "actuated" and nothing. I can read and flash the ecu with no problems.

Is there any other way to verify a bad ecu short of opening it up and looking for something burnt up? Unfortunately, I don't know anyone with a IX that's local. Is there a how to for benching an ecu (if it would help)?

Thank you.

Went a head and opened the ecu. No obvious problems or burns. I'm going to check the wiring from the ecu to the engine bay tomorrow.

 

Does it crank over? What were you doing just prior to it going dead?

 

You could try testing voltage on the wires coming from the ecu for the fuel pump relay.

 

Put stock cams and injectors back in.

I will. I figured fuel was fine since I can run the pump through evoscan. I think either the ecu is fried, or there is something wrong making the ecu to decide to not to let the car start. I just don't know what that would be without throwing a cel.

It has to be something stupid that I did. I just can't find anything wrong anywhere. I also don't know what I could've done to smoke the ecu.

 

ECUflash work? Load a new map? I have had that happen... imobiliser or something got garbled in the re-flash... Anyway if ECUflash works it would most likely rule out the ECU being toast... Right?

 

I've tried several maps. Immobiler is correct in each one. I've also disabled the immobilizer.

I would think the ecu would be fine since I can read it and flash it. But I'm worried about being able to unplug the cps without causing a cel.

 

If you have just changed the cams, check the timing and the cam position sensor to start with. Especially if it was running fine before this work.

 

I had a similiar issue and was the most frustrating 3 days ever! i had a short between the crank signal wire from the sensor right to the ecu. the power and ground were both there but the signal wire itself somehow grounded itself out, so check the signal wire and if it checks out check every single other wire to make sure it didnt short itself with anything else. if it did run a direct wire from the crank signal to the ecu pinout.

 

check coolant sensor

 

dont rule out the ecu ive had a ecu fry and i could still flash and connect with evoscan but the car wouldnt crank no matter what i did until i swapped the ecu for a new one and it fired right back up.

 

+1.

Ha, quoted, then looked at who I was quoting..... Hows that Vipec and big turbo setup?

 

I had a simular problem before, the machine shop did not install my cam sensor cylinder (#19 in the first picture) in the correct position.






1. Set the dowel pin of the exhaust camshaft to the position (number 1 cylinder at compression TDC) as shown in the illustration. NOTE: Use the force of the exhaust valve spring to rotate counterclockwise.
2. Install the vane (small) of the camshaft position sensing cylinder at an angle of approximately 45 degrees to the position of the dowel pin of the exhaust camshaft.
3. Tighten the camshaft position sensing cylinder mounting bolts to the specified torque. Tightening torque: 22 ±4 Nm (16 ±3 ft. lbs.)

 

Does the engine crank just doesn't start? I'm guessing bad wire from crank sensor.

 

Check the fuse #1 under the dash. It happened to me last year, had me down for 2 days. I used a tester to diagnose, visually it looked good.

 

yeah wasn't there a fuse that caused this..

^ probably this one - but dbl check them all