I don't have the computer with me right now that has the timing table but Ill update the thread later with it. But pretty much, anything above 5 in the boost range will cause knock. From 3000 to about 5000 my timing ranges from 0 to 3 and from 6000 to 8000 my timing at most goes up to 6. Im still working on it but I've had to seriously dial back the timing to get rid of knock.

With the timing this low it feels way faster then it does with the timing higherr which it should cuz its not knocking but Im just curious why my car likes such low timing. Anyone have ideas why?

 

What cams and when/who did the last timing belt job?

aaron

 

HKS 272, I did the timing belt about a year ago.

 

Check base timing.

 

Is there a more accurate way to check timing then looking at the marks on the engine? Its been a while since I did it, but Im pretty sure the timing marks lined up pretty well.

 

bump I have the same problem..

 

take the spark plugs out and place a socket extention down cyl 1. ( make sure its long enough so it sticks well out of the top of the rocker cover and doesn't fall in to the pot. )

* line up all your marks to TDC.
* once lined up, continue to move the crank very slowly in the operational direction.
* if you are at true TDC then the socket extention should be at the highest point and start to drop straight away. if it continues to go higher after you have set your timing marks to TDC then your base timing is out.
* 1deg out at crank = 2deg out at the cam gears. so being 3deg out down the bottom end would explain why your base timing is about 6degrees out on your ignition map.

this is a very rough guide but hope it gives you an idea of what to do...

 

Thats incorrect. 1 degree at the crankshaft is only one half of a degree at the camshaft. at true TDC the piston will niether move up or down when the crankshaft is rotated in the operational direction for 2degrees, then it should move down. There are 5 degrees of rotation where the piston changes direction and does not move in the bore.

 

The only way to be sure is to physically check them. It is possible that the hydraulic tensioner isn't in good condition and allowed the timing belt to skip a tooth or 2. The best thing to do is pop the cover off and check the timing. The factory marks are accurate enough for this application.

 

How is your a/f tuned?

 

Those are the maps that seem to be working best right now. I know the AFR map seems high but the actual AFR readings on my wideband are around 11.3-11.5 throughout the whole pull.

Is there any other reason timing would be low? I'd rather try easy stuff first before trying to work on the timing belt.

 

^^^WOW!!! That timing map is killing my eyes to see.

Rule is:
As load increases timing should decrease
and as RPM's increase so should the timing.

Yours map is all over the place...you have many cells where timing goes up as load increases...example:

RPM 6k load 120-240
2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 4, 7

Your map is all over the place and not smooth between cells at all.

 

Have you asked your tuner about this?

 

Look at this guys timing map and pay attention to how smooth it is , try to do the same .
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ec...g-maps-93.html

 

Yea, those maps need some help. What are the modifications to the car? Can you do a 3rd gear datalog and post it up so that we can see what the car is actually doing.