Help with E85 Timing on EVO IX
better to be conservative then aggressive with e85 or you'll get a window mod in your block.
Well, thanks for the honesty
That's actually where I was a few days ago. I made changes but the weather here kept dropping so it was hard to tell if it was ambient temp or the timing changes.
I'll cut it back and start again just to be safe.
thanks wizzo

thanks GGevo921
thanks GGevo921
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My name is Tyler. BTW where in PA are you located? Maybe we can catch up and cruise one day. Ive got some big goals! Tuning the car myself!
Not to get off topic. feel free to shoot me a pm, trying to meet some more people who are local.
[/quote]My name is Tyler. BTW where in PA are you located? Maybe we can catch up and cruise one day. Ive got some big goals! Tuning the car myself!
Not to get off topic. feel free to shoot me a pm, trying to meet some more people who are local.
thats why i suggested he start lower though.. and work his way up slowly to confirm everything is within safe boundaries. i run 19 on my 2.3.. it makes more at 20 but i dont like to push it... as i said its better safe then sorry when it comes to this stuff. get greedy and pick up engine pieces.. pretty much thats how it goes.
tscompusa Nice to meet you Tyler - im in the lancaster area - Tom
tscomp,
are you talking aim for 19* at 8k or peak power which is 6600rpm? Sorry for the dumb question
Also with the Magnus boost is dropping hard so just making sure.
Thanks again for everyone's help!
18-19 is MBT independent of cylinder head and bore size (85-87mm) from all the cars I have had on the dyno. 8's and 9's are not different from each other unless the head is a really bad coreshifted head (which happens) and is not really getting as much air in the cylinder as a good head.
It should be 11* or so (assuming this is a stock turbo) around 5750, 14 by 6500 and 18 at 8.
It should be 11* or so (assuming this is a stock turbo) around 5750, 14 by 6500 and 18 at 8.
You already have plenty of good and accurate advice in this thread, but just to reiterate.
Instead of concentrating on any exact number, you have to find that number for your setup. You have all the tools to do so...back your timing down a lot, do a run, graph the results. Add a degree, graph the results. Rinse and repeat until you don't see any gains at certain RPM points. That's when you are at MBT for that RPM region.
To be safe, maybe then back that area down 1-2*. When you're done with that process, your entire map (at least the load/RPMS during a WOT run) will be done and at optimum timing. You can then try a few different boost levels and do the same and smooth between.
Instead of concentrating on any exact number, you have to find that number for your setup. You have all the tools to do so...back your timing down a lot, do a run, graph the results. Add a degree, graph the results. Rinse and repeat until you don't see any gains at certain RPM points. That's when you are at MBT for that RPM region.
To be safe, maybe then back that area down 1-2*. When you're done with that process, your entire map (at least the load/RPMS during a WOT run) will be done and at optimum timing. You can then try a few different boost levels and do the same and smooth between.
This is my timing for an MAP EF2. This was as far as I could push it from 4500 on up before gains were only five horsepower per added degree. Prior to that it was more like 10-15. Word on the street claims once gains drop to single digits you should stop adding timing. I'm not sure if that is truthful or not maybe one of the tuners can chime in.
I can't believe how fast your boost comes on .... holy crap! You have 300TQ by 3300 RPM.

I can't believe how fast your boost comes on .... holy crap! You have 300TQ by 3300 RPM.









