I have finally sorted all the mechanicals of my build. New injectors, FIC1100s, are setup well and latencies are hovering around 1s and then wander to 3s on a long enough drive or idle test. Idles good otherwise and starts every time, etc.

Now I have Kelford 272s, rev3 IM, polished head and ExMani, ETS 3.5 IC, none of which I had previously and I am essentially running the same tune I did years ago. Its working fine with low knock if any. I turned up the boost on my 9mr turbo to 26 peak, so a 1 pound increase, with no noticeable difference except maybe knock wanted to creep in.

What is the appropriate approach to tune to take advantage of the new 'airflow'. As is, it pulls nice and smooth if somewhat flat or dull, however I can tell it just keeps going and going into the high rpms now without a drop off. Before it was more manic but ran out of air on the front straight at Cal Speedway.

I have reread nearly every pertinent post on here, and just haven't gotten all the way through the "Lets see your fully tune timing maps" zillion pages yet. Its my only remaining one. However there were a few comments in there about shifting your timing curve to fit the new cams peak.

Can the guru's give me some guidance on where my tuning modifications should start and why based on the airflow changes above. Oh, and I am unfortunately on CA 91. No E85 close enough yet.
Thanks

 

Really? Nobody. I admit this is somewhat beyond the beginner step and setup, but there are surely many opinions on where I should be focusing first to take advantage of the new parts and airflow. C'mon gurus, help me make that next learning step

 

Got yourself a wide band?

 

Yup, I have an LC1 on board and wired into the ECU. I have tuned the previous hardware setup, so I am not a complete beginner, but am wondering what theoretical approach should be happening based on the amount of air that I am potentially pushing. I tried adding a tiny bit of boost and starting getting knock.

I tried adding a bit of timing and started getting knock. I was wondering exactly what I should be changing, at least in their on CA 91, to take advantage of the bigger cams and bigger intake.

 

I would start reducing timing with your mods, not adding timing.

 

So if timing has to be reduced lets assume generally everywhere, then where should additional power come from? Boost or AFR? I still have the stock 9 mr turbo.

 

I think you need to go back and learn what makes a modern combustion engine work. All your answers will be there.

Don't take this the wrong way.

 

No wrong way taken. You are the only one bothering to respond so far!

I am in the middle of the zillion page "Lets see your fully tuned timing maps" thread and I am following most all of that from a technical standpoint. Its just real long to try and find value in that which will relate to my tuning scenario. I understand the basics of our combustion engine; fuel and its stability to combust, timing, valve lift, VE, etc. I did take my engine apart myself and rebuilt it myself and adding some goodies along the way, Polished everything myself too. I generally get it, so I am not sure more general understanding of a modern combustion engine will necessarily help me. Not that I think I know everything to it, but I have tuned the car before, and I am facing a scenario where I added a bunch of stuff, and anyone of the three areas I am trying to increase only induces gradual knock; advance, AFR, Boost.

I could be at the limit of 91 I suppose, but I assumed I am just at the limit of my current tuning skill set. I am reading my ***** off every night I can, but I just need a bump start from someone on suggested approaches to get the most out of my new setup. If you have something specific you think I should read about combustion engines, give me the link, and I will put in the time.

 

I used this guide to get started way back. If you follow it you will learn the inter-related nature of boost/fuel/timing when tuning. It is a mistake to try to focus on one aspect alone in the hope of increasing output.

For example; 26 psi is way too much boost for 91 pistane and almost certainly the reason you are knocking. (There is a real danger you will do permanent damage unless you lower the boost) I've found that I can't run more than 23 psi at 3500 rpm tapering to 19 at redline in my VIII. The reason you are not seeing any increases in output is because the ECU retards timing and richens AFR in response to knock. This happens in self defense to prevent your engine from self destructing.

 

Sorry but your comments about boost levels on 91oct are incorrect.

I run 28psi taper to 25 on my BLACK on 91oct. Bryan@GST runs 27psi on his FP Green on 91oct. Etc. Etc.

One of the reasons you may have trouble running higher boost on 91oct is that you run a HFC. Restrictions like a HFC can make the car more knock prone.

 

sorry but what HFC stands for ?

 

High Flow Cat

 

Good Comments. cdrinkh20. I have read and pretty much memorized all the tuning guides and even posted some of my own beginners help guides. I understand the interrelation a bit for sure. I was running 26 psi before my build. No knock ~1 at the track.

Boosted. No HFC, straight pipe. Before my 'build' I had a pretty conservative tune for timing and focused on slightly more lean conditions. It was a setup I ran on track for 3 years, self tuned (help from here of course), no knock, no problems ever. No over heating, etc. Very reliable, and then I broke by TC, and decided to get that and my trans built to handle my abuse on track.

One of the reasons the car broke the trans is that the motor and brakes never complained even with back to back to back sessions. Nothing like my WRX days.

Now in the process I decided to go further, but with the stock 9 turbo. I wanted to tune and free up air flow. So I got the Map rev 3 IM, polished the head, 272 cams, polished the EM, broke down the entire engine, deleted the balance shafts, new gaskets, head studs, etc.

With all that I was expecting to be able to begin turning up something. I started with the tune I had, and then I added the smallest bit of timing, and started to induce knock. backed that off, and then added 1 psi, started to induce knock, backed that off. The AFR map, as I mentioned already seems a bit on the lean side compared to threads I am reading for CA91, so that didn't seem like the right option.

So, now what? Clearly with that much airflow theoretically improving VE, I should be able to tune to find the extra power, but I am stuck. With the existing map it pulls like crazy up top, which is different, but do I really just install all that stuff, and then not change my tune? That seems wrong.

 

The balance shaft removal, the built trans/TC or some other part of the rebuild may be causing false knock by being loud. Use race gas or similar to check. Then if you find it is false knock, use the knock filters to "tune" it out.

BTW, the HFC comment was directed at cdrinkh20, not you.

 

not an expert but are you sure that's a real det ? high lift cams often trigger false knocks, as I've read here