BTW what's wrong with methods written in Merlins tuning guide? What are you doing differently? I don't see any space here for improvisations, most people are altering same boost error correction, load offset, desired engine load, base WGDC maps, unless you are using custom ecu routines in your "correct" and only method...

 

You my have a failing wastegate actuator. I'd take it off and inspect it. Failing turbochrgers are pretty noticable i.e. noises, shaftplay, smoke but it still could be bad.

Make a boost leak tester and verify you have no leaks either. To reiterate, you should have 11 psi or so just on the spring inside the wastegate actuator canister. You should have a LARGE and visually noticable leak to be making only 6-7PSI. Good luck.

 

You dont just max out the desired load tables. Your suppose to use actual data for the load values. Thats where comment your was wrong.

Also, since he error correction 0'd out, the desired load values doesnt matter. Only WGDC (and the WGDC trims).

But most likely he doesnt have a boost control tuning issue. It seems like he has a mechanical issue of some sort.

 

OP, did you log WGDC when you took the test runs? Was it reading the same as the requested WGDC?

Also, the best way to diagnose this is would be to either connect the boost source directly to the WGA. NO 3port. Nothing. Or use a MBC and see if it controls boost properly.

 

OK
I admit if error correction is zeroed out, there is no use in altering boost desired engine load.
But is it totally bad idea to zero out error correction and use a simple wgdc vs rpm map to test if it is possible to boost that car (quick check is it ecu boost control, or mechanical failure)?

 

No its not a bad idea. Thats exactly how you would test it. Zero out error correction (and MAF IAT trim, if on V7). Just use WGDC vs RPM.

 

OK, I want to apologize you for being arrogant and sounding harsh with you. I think we have misunderstood each other. I wanted to give a tip for troubleshooting problem, not for final ecu boost tuning.
Although I really like basic rpm vs wgdc boost control idea (as I said before), even if it's not perfect/correct. Where I live, I drive my car in temperatures from -4F to 86F (roughly), so it's hard to setup WELL everything and ebc/mbc is more favorable option for me.

 

No problem.

 

I did a couple test runs today, both with and without the bcs connected. And both showed that the WGDC is doing what I asked it to do. Still, only 7-8psi.


I did also try this just for shts and giggles. But there was no change whatsoever..

 

Mechanical issue then..