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Evo stalls w/ AC on only when depressing clutch on decel

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Old May 12, 2013 | 06:53 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Boosted Tuning
What are you target idle RPM tables? 800?

It need to be set the same RPM as your idle target tables, if you have changed them.
AC off is 797 and AC on i have 900 RPM. It idles perfect until you pop it out of gear when braking then it dips and sometimes stalls, or it dips to 500ish RPM then bounces up and down a few times until it stabilizes.
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Old May 12, 2013 | 08:24 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by rich3389
AC off is 797 and AC on i have 900 RPM. It idles perfect until you pop it out of gear when braking then it dips and sometimes stalls, or it dips to 500ish RPM then bounces up and down a few times until it stabilizes.
What are your mods? You may wanna set the idle higher and set the BISS at the new, higher idle rpm target.
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Old May 13, 2013 | 04:18 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Boosted Tuning
What are your mods? You may wanna set the idle higher and set the BISS at the new, higher idle rpm target.
Basic mods, open air filter, TBE, lower and upper IC piping, no egr or evap, Tephra V7.
BTW it does it on the stock rom as well.
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Old May 21, 2013 | 12:39 PM
  #19  
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From: bucks county, pa/philly
Under the dash behind the clutch pedal is a switch when u depress the clutch pedal it's supposed to be depressed also... Sometimes it moves to one side and doesn't make full contact, check that ill bet that's your prob and even if it looks like everything is good under there try adjusting the switch closer to the Pedal stop
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Old Jul 1, 2013 | 06:16 AM
  #20  
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Had anyone solved this issue successfully. I am so frustrated. I have an Evo 9 MR. And my engine stalls.
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Old Jul 2, 2013 | 04:32 AM
  #21  
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I was having this problem as well as terrible E85 cold starts, changed IACV, front O2, checked for boost, vacuum and exhaust leaks, played with lots of things including BISS, injector latencies, MAF scaling. Logging showed that AFR's were going rich <10 prior to stalling.

Ended up running the battery low with all the starts and reflashing, thought I bricked the ECU as it stopped flashing part way through, couldn't start the car, couldn't flash anymore.

Disconnected the battery, charged it overnight, pulled the ECU fuse under the hood, fully charged laptop, reconnected the battery and was able to flash last known good ROM into the car. After this when the revs start to drop I can actually hear the IACV clicking, adding air and preventing the stall. Never heard that before. Generally now when I coast off the gas the revs drop to 1000 rpm and no lower.

I suggest disconnect the battery overnight AND remove the ECU fuse and see if the IAC system resets. Good luck.
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Old Jul 3, 2013 | 01:51 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by wrx2evoIX
I was having this problem as well as terrible E85 cold starts, changed IACV, front O2, checked for boost, vacuum and exhaust leaks, played with lots of things including BISS, injector latencies, MAF scaling. Logging showed that AFR's were going rich <10 prior to stalling.

Ended up running the battery low with all the starts and reflashing, thought I bricked the ECU as it stopped flashing part way through, couldn't start the car, couldn't flash anymore.

Disconnected the battery, charged it overnight, pulled the ECU fuse under the hood, fully charged laptop, reconnected the battery and was able to flash last known good ROM into the car. After this when the revs start to drop I can actually hear the IACV clicking, adding air and preventing the stall. Never heard that before. Generally now when I coast off the gas the revs drop to 1000 rpm and no lower.

I suggest disconnect the battery overnight AND remove the ECU fuse and see if the IAC system resets. Good luck.

Ill try this. Should I go ahead a replace the IAC vavle first. I guess it won't hurt if I do the relearn first. Anyone else have any other suggestions.
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Old Jul 4, 2013 | 03:54 AM
  #23  
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You can test the IACV if you have a multimeter, test 2-1, 2-3, 5-4 and 5-6, explained here https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...-question.html If it tests OK I wouldn't bother changing it until at least you've tried the full drain down, ECU fuse out etc. You should park the IACV using EvoScan and re-set the base idle after you re-start the car and it's warmed up.
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Old Aug 14, 2013 | 10:25 AM
  #24  
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Did anybody ever find a fix to this.. the only thing left for me to replace is the MAF sensor.... and I am about to just buy a new one to see if it will fix the issue.
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Old Sep 11, 2013 | 01:25 AM
  #25  
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Update. I still had a problem with low revs and stalling even after doing the battery disconnect reset in the posts above, just not as bad. Then I changed my BOV from the stock metal one to a Synchronic DV, the small one. Now perfect idle and absolutely no stalls with clutch in. I also picked up a whole lot of boost as the stock valve must have been leaking, so now the turbo doesn't have to work as hard.
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Old Sep 11, 2013 | 08:04 AM
  #26  
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My car does the same thing. It drives perfect without ac and when I come to a light and out the clutch in it drops right down to 1000 and sits there. But with ac on it stalls when I put in the clutch and hit the brakes coming to a stoplight. I hardly ever use ac unless a girl is in the car because they seem to ***** about the Texas heat, but it's still a little annoying. I might remove ac since I can't use it anyways
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Old Sep 11, 2013 | 09:09 AM
  #27  
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Jay at Boosted Tuning fixed my issue while we were tuning last year. It was all in my rom set.
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Old Sep 11, 2013 | 03:53 PM
  #28  
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There are a couple of things you can do:

Set the timing advance at 0 Load and 10 Load to something like 12*.
The idle timing should be 5-8* on your spark map at Load 30-40.
Basically you surround the idle point with higher spark advance which gives the engine the torque to recover quickly.

The other helper you can tweak is the low idle rpm recovery adder table/s, which you may not have in your current def.
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Old Sep 12, 2013 | 10:34 PM
  #29  
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From: The Colony, TX
Originally Posted by merlin.oz
There are a couple of things you can do:

Set the timing advance at 0 Load and 10 Load to something like 12*.
The idle timing should be 5-8* on your spark map at Load 30-40.
Basically you surround the idle point with higher spark advance which gives the engine the torque to recover quickly.

The other helper you can tweak is the low idle rpm recovery adder table/s, which you may not have in your current def.
Thanks Merlin, I am going to try all this. Can you please be more specific on the recovery table you mentioned? Is it by chance the "ISCV Demand Below 500 RPM Idle Recovery Adder (sub_1E2C8)"? If so, mine is 20% which should be stock or whatever v7 comes set up with. About how much would you say to increase it? Thanks!
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Old Sep 13, 2013 | 03:43 AM
  #30  
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I have lost track of mrfreds original descriptions, but I think thats the puppy.

The scaling should be in steps not percent but that does not change the table functionality.
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