Nothing could have killed the ecu, I only took wires out. I did not rewire anything or add wires.

 

By the way, I forgot to mention in first post. Spray starting fluid in the intake manifold and the car starts right up and dies.

 

Could just be a dead battery to be honest... if it has a dead cell the battery will read 14v however that may not be what the ecu is seeing and may not let you read the rom... If you have a copy of your old rom you can try to write over whatever is on the ecu... as long as they are compatible ecus...

 

It is not the battery, I had this happen when I needed to get in the ecu before with my old laptop. There is a Tehpra XML pack with a bunch of numbers in there. The number that needs to be added is not in that pack. I have to call Boostin Performance to get that number so I can access that tune. I do not a copy of my old rom, it died with my old laptop.

 

Ok, I found my tune on my laptop and could not get into it. Found some Tephra things and added them and now I can get into my tune which means I can get into my ecu now.

Can someone please tell me exactly what to do to turn off the immobilizer? I looked in the periphery's and could not find anything to do with the immobilizer. I found a section for it but have no idea what to do.

 

FAA Bits Bit 3 Change to 0 using the [ key

 

**** this new iphone swipe back bull****... Long story short you flash is probably corrupt to the point it doesnt run... Unless you already reflashed and it still doesnt start... The immobilizer kills the fuel pump relays from my experience... Once my cars pump was hardwired i could use any key that fit to start it... Which goes with your starter fluid thingy...

Speaking of... Did you happen to mess with any of the 3 relays or the pump resistor block?

 

Thank you PureDrivePerformance. I will try to try that later today.

I did not touch anything fuel pump related. The car has 40+ psi of fuel pressure while cranking.

$100 to the person who gives me the answer!!! I know its not much but I am going nuts over here!

 

Still have not figured this out.........................

 

Do us all a huge favor... Get your last known good tune, put your car on a charger and reflash it


Have you back probed the grounds to the ecu for each injector? I thought i might have mine backward and after fully sheathing the wiring harness my only option was cont... Turned out i was good... The pins are all the same connector... You can figure it out for sure... If you have continutity... And youre seeing 12volts at the injectors... Then look at your cam sensors... The exhaust cam controls injector timing if i remember... If its neither of those then i would start to look at air flow... Wait no the engine doesnt care about airflow at startup... However knock, and map sensors will shut down the car...

Hold on... Inside the fuse box under the dash... There is a fuse for the engine... Fuse 8 specifically but 12 and 1 as well... Check those...

If they are good make sure your knock sensor is hooked up and tap the block while logging knock voltage to ensure its responding... Tap with a hammer...

As far as i know cpk, cam, ign, inj, kn, map are the only ones that can make a car not start cpk is good or it would never start, the others are still in question... Lemme know what you come up with

 

Forgive me i was brain storming

 

I am going to try to do some testing tomorrow on the car. I have a tune for the car on my laptop. I am going to save the current tune and load the other one. I think that one is just a base tune.

All fuses checked out good. Yes I am seeing 12v power at the injectors. All I check is for continuity for the ground wires from the ecu to the injectors and that was all good. What do you mean by back probing?

Man I got myself good!!!!!!!!!

 

Back probing is a way to say check for continuity. I picked it up in the army sorry...

If the wires are good and you have power the only reason you shouldnt be getting fuel is no signal... Either the ecu is burnt up... Or its not getting the signal inputs it needs to time the injectors... Start with the reflash, then try another ecu or this one in another car... I know you have a few test cars laying around... I only say start there because its the easiest...

After that you'll wanna use an oscilloscope to check the wave form of the cam position sensors... Or if you feel comfortable swap the sensor and sensor trigger from another motor on to this one.
Doing the swap i would suggest checking continuity and resistance of the wiring first. With the scope you dont need to...

If the cam signals are there and correct then we can start looking elsewhere...

 

Ok Joseph, I hope you are onto something here.

Reflashed ECU and nothing.

Logged for knock and logged everything that said knock in it, nothing.

Took a different knock sensor, plugged it in and started logging, banged the knock sensor on strut tower bar, nothing.

A knock sensor issue will make the car not run???

 

Definitely... If you beat it around and it didnt log any voltage spike there yea go... Knock voltage is the one you wanted... If its 0 then you either need to check continuity to the ecu... It generates its own voltage so you shouldnt have power or ground so dont bother... That signal wire is heavily shielded from rfi and emf because the knock system is so sensitive... I really hope yours is fine i wouldnt know how to begin to fix it