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Openport2.0 logs with Evoscan... Won't flash/read With Ecuflash
This has been driving me crazy and even though no one will probably see this thread for a while (lol) I'm out of ideas so I figure I'll give it a shot to see if there are any thoughts over the weekend.
I've been using ecuflash with an openport2.0 for hundreds of flashes with no issues
Now I have two openport2.0s that plug in, light up, show up in the device manager with the j2534 drivers, log perfectly with evoscan, are identified by ecuflash in the bottom right corner, but will not pull or write anything to the ECU.
Instead I get the classic: [21:42:36.344] sending init sequence 1 (0001) [21:42:39.604] sending init sequence 1 (0003) [21:42:42.865] sending init sequence 1 (FFFF) [21:42:45.610] no response to any known code [21:42:45.610] interface close
What I've tried:
Using a battery tender while attempting (evoscan voltage verified to 13v+)
Trying different USB ports
Uninstalling evoscan
Uninstalling/reinstalling everything in various order
Trying different versions of Ecuflash
Reinstalling Windows 10
Using an older version of Ecuflash with windows 7 running on a virtual machine
Using different usb cables
Trying an ecu unlocker even though it shouldn't matter since I've been the only one to touch the tunes over the past few years and I've never messed with the init code
Connecting the laptop to the wall charger while trying
Driving the car around for a bit and then trying
Cursing
Trying while the car is idling
And probably several more things I can't think of right now
At this point I guess I'm going to buy an arguably overpriced 1.3u cable from the Evoscan guys or get fed up enough to just go standalone
And no, unfortunately my area is a dead zone for evos so I can't try with someone else's car. I see another ct9a in the region maybe 4 times a year.
Probably a dumb question, but you are using the flash connector right?
Is it the same one for both openports? Could be a damaged connector. You can use a DMM to measure it's sending voltage when attempting to flash
Probably a dumb question, but you are using the flash connector right?
Is it the same one for both openports? Could be a damaged connector. You can use a DMM to measure it's sending voltage when attempting to flash
I am but doesn't it not need the connector to pull the existing tune off the ecu? I was working under that assumption but if that's not the case it's supposed to see 12v to that pin when trying to flash, right?
I've never tried to pull the rom without the flash connector. So I don't really know if it should work or not. Pretty sure it should be 12volts, small chance it could be 5v, been a long time since I looked at that circuit.
Hmm... Well when attempting to flash I didn't see any voltage coming out from the little jack on the Openport
Just in case I'm having a brainfart there's no reason I wouldn't see some sort of voltage output with one lead of the multimeter on the adapter wire coming from the openport and the other on the shock tower bolt while it's trying to flash, right? And yeah, the adapter isn't broken.
Now I'm starting to worry that the original openport malfunctioned and took out part of the ecu on it's way out. I'll test the flashing pin by the obd to the ecu plug to make sure nothing got yanked around while waiting for my 12v power supply.
Last edited by Turtletron; Dec 10, 2022 at 08:31 AM.
@Turtletron You must have +12.4V from the Openport 2 mini jack to the white flash connector and key on, ignition on, to be able to read or write. That white flash connector plug (pin 26 C-15 circled in red) supplies +12V to pin 79 (Evo 8), pin 100 (Evo9) on the ECU which is required to run the boot initiation code for ISO 9141-2 K-Line serial communications on pin 62 (Evo 8), pin 85 (Evo 9).
Evo 8 Wiring Diagram:
Evo 9 Wiring Diagram:
Last edited by CDrinkH2O; Dec 11, 2022 at 10:03 AM.
Reason: Added diagram
Hmm... Well when attempting to flash I didn't see any voltage coming out from the little jack on the Openport
Just in case I'm having a brainfart there's no reason I wouldn't see some sort of voltage output with one lead of the multimeter on the adapter wire coming from the openport and the other on the shock tower bolt while it's trying to flash, right? And yeah, the adapter isn't broken.
Now I'm starting to worry that the original openport malfunctioned and took out part of the ecu on it's way out. I'll test the flashing pin by the obd to the ecu plug to make sure nothing got yanked around while waiting for my 12v power supply.
You would want to test for voltage with your probe at the connector, if it's plugged in you can back probe it (blue) or if not plugged in you can probe it from the front (red).
Ha! Got it working.
No matter what I was never able to pick up any voltage on either Openport but after connecting a power supply to pin 26 it finally flashed. At first I had it set to 12.1v and it still wouldn't work, after going to 12.4v it began.
Ha! Got it working.
No matter what I was never able to pick up any voltage on either Openport but after connecting a power supply to pin 26 it finally flashed. At first I had it set to 12.1v and it still wouldn't work, after going to 12.4v it began.
It sounds like you have a fake clone of the real Openport 2.0 which may be partially disabled when your USB driver firmware discovers a blacklisted processor. The real Openport 2.0 holds the tip of the 2.5mm mini-jack output at +18V during flashing. This is designed to get a good uninterrupted flash. +12.4V is the absolute minimum and is definitely borderline for read/write to the eprom. I recommend you boost your flash voltage higher to ensure clean read/writes.
Ha! Got it working.
No matter what I was never able to pick up any voltage on either Openport but after connecting a power supply to pin 26 it finally flashed. At first I had it set to 12.1v and it still wouldn't work, after going to 12.4v it began.
Thanks for the help guys.
Hi I am facing the same issue. Can you please explain on how you managed to sort the issue. It will be really helpful. And thanks in advance.
BTW mine is a JDM evo 8.