Dyno Test: crushed IX BOV vs Go Fast Bits
Thanks for the comments Bryan!
I have yet to see/hear proof positive that the synapse would actually eliminate the flutter issues. It certainly would make equal, if not better power, that BOV is very very nice.
If I can get my hands on one to test, I'll try out the synapse and maybe a APS twin-vent at some point. If it fixed the flutter on my car, it would fix it on any car...mine has been the worst. Speed density fixed that though
I have yet to see/hear proof positive that the synapse would actually eliminate the flutter issues. It certainly would make equal, if not better power, that BOV is very very nice.
If I can get my hands on one to test, I'll try out the synapse and maybe a APS twin-vent at some point. If it fixed the flutter on my car, it would fix it on any car...mine has been the worst. Speed density fixed that though
They just need to be installed correctly, on their sides, not vertical with the correct ports used.
- Bryan
Scheides, off topic but was this your pump gas tune on the DD?
Seeing your post made me crush my IX. It flutters now, not as bad as Brian described, but noticeable. I went back to the Synapse (I updated my Synchronic thread).
Seeing your post made me crush my IX. It flutters now, not as bad as Brian described, but noticeable. I went back to the Synapse (I updated my Synchronic thread).
Take a look at the boost levels and you tell me 
I keep the tune and boost on my car conservative.
Thx for the comments on the synapse bryan, maybe I'll get my hands on one some day.
I keep the tune and boost on my car conservative.Thx for the comments on the synapse bryan, maybe I'll get my hands on one some day.
I went ahead and further crushed my IX BOV last night.
Here it is with its 'mini-crush' on it. This is with the top crushed about 3-4mm from stock, and how I had it at the start of this test:
Here is after further crushing it. I mushed the top down to the point that the nipple sticking out the side firmly started to touch the outside rim, probably another 5mm from where it was before. Once I was done, I stuck a needle-nose in the end of the nipple and bent it up just enough to easily get a hose back on it all the way:
From this angle, you can sorta see how its become concave:
Just thought I'd share, this technique is officially 20 years old at this point! Comments on driveability changes in a few days.
Here it is with its 'mini-crush' on it. This is with the top crushed about 3-4mm from stock, and how I had it at the start of this test:
Here is after further crushing it. I mushed the top down to the point that the nipple sticking out the side firmly started to touch the outside rim, probably another 5mm from where it was before. Once I was done, I stuck a needle-nose in the end of the nipple and bent it up just enough to easily get a hose back on it all the way:
From this angle, you can sorta see how its become concave:
Just thought I'd share, this technique is officially 20 years old at this point! Comments on driveability changes in a few days.
Why are people still crushing BOVs? Properly modding by eliminating the fast release port will allow the valve to hold more boost than crushing, and will allow greater opening of the valve since you're not shortening the spring height.
http://www.thedodgegarage.com/turbo_bov_mod.html
http://www.thedodgegarage.com/turbo_bov_mod.html
The gains are there, DSM people always had good results however is a double edge knive, crush it too much and you will loose boost. A little crushing is always good. my .2c
Carlos
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I went ahead and further crushed my IX BOV last night.
Here it is with its 'mini-crush' on it. This is with the top crushed about 3-4mm from stock, and how I had it at the start of this test:
Here is after further crushing it. I mushed the top down to the point that the nipple sticking out the side firmly started to touch the outside rim, probably another 5mm from where it was before. Once I was done, I stuck a needle-nose in the end of the nipple and bent it up just enough to easily get a hose back on it all the way:
From this angle, you can sorta see how its become concave:
Just thought I'd share, this technique is officially 20 years old at this point! Comments on driveability changes in a few days.
Here it is with its 'mini-crush' on it. This is with the top crushed about 3-4mm from stock, and how I had it at the start of this test:
Here is after further crushing it. I mushed the top down to the point that the nipple sticking out the side firmly started to touch the outside rim, probably another 5mm from where it was before. Once I was done, I stuck a needle-nose in the end of the nipple and bent it up just enough to easily get a hose back on it all the way:
From this angle, you can sorta see how its become concave:
Just thought I'd share, this technique is officially 20 years old at this point! Comments on driveability changes in a few days.
^On what? It is what it is, crushing the stock bov works. If you wanna hold more boost than about 28-30 then get a tial or a syncronic bov
Oh, and I rolled my car. That's the update, wee! http://www.ebaumsworld.com/video/watch/643063/
Oh, and I rolled my car. That's the update, wee! http://www.ebaumsworld.com/video/watch/643063/
i was trying to see how it performed. i know it works but i have also heard about driveability issues. just wondering about how it preformed on normal DD.
sorry to hear about your car!
sorry to hear about your car!