Hardware

iTrader: (17)

Visited BR on September 24th, 2010. Was hoping for 400hp on their Dyno, but came up short. David said something is holding me back, but is not sure what it is. I understand that is not his responsibility to figure out. He did the best he could with what I gave him. If you have any thoughts on what could be holding me back I'd like to hear about it.

27.6psi on 93oct - I believe they were 3rd gear pulls. 369hp/329tq

Buschur Ported 84MM FP Red
Buschur MBC
Buschur 3" TBE (test pipe)
Buschur Ported TB, Intake and Exhaust Manifold
Buschur 3.5" Street FMIC
Buschur LICP / ETS UICP
HKS 272
PTE 1000
Walbro 255
ARP Headstuds
Megan 02 Housing
Exedy Twin HD
FP 84MM Intake Pipe/ SE OMG Filter
Crushed MR BOV

Srt-4 Turbo 7

iTrader: (13)

A set of GSC 274 cams and supertech dual valve springs are your friend.

zeus1

iTrader: (19)

did you do a boost leak test before the dyno pull? what spark plugs and gap are you using? what did he think you should have been at?

Boosted Tuning

iTrader: (12)

Both of these are right.

Did you do the normal pre tune check list?

Do a boost leak test and confirm there is no boost leaks.
Install new plugs, properly gapped.
Make sure you have no exhaust leaks and that your DP/TP are NOT touching/hitting/rattling on the oil pan, TC or cross bars.
Check compression.

If you did all that and your car is in prefect running condition, the I would have to agree with "Srt-4 Turbo" and say you need bigger cams, ones that require new valve springs.

EDIT: Also, as you should know, Buschur's dyno is one of the low low reading mustang dynos. I would say that those number would probably be about 420 on a Dynojet and should trap about 120 in the 1/4 mile.

xcelr8

iTrader: (7)

^^^agreed. those cams are junk. swap them out and you ll make more forsure. I would hope youve done a boost leak test also.

sphinxof2006

iTrader: (4)

I would say some kelfords 272 would help a bit!

Hardware

iTrader: (17)

I didn't do a boost leak test right before my trip to BR, but have done one recently with no problems. David compared my tune to another recent FP Red tune he did and I spooled up earlier. He didn't think it was a boost leak. I'm using BPR7EIX gapped to .024 at David's recommendation. David expected 400hp on his Dyno, but that's not his fault the car didn't do it.

Plugs were about 3 months old properly gapped. There could be exhaust leaks. Will check that for next time. DP/TP weren't touching when I installed them so I can't see that changing. I'm using spacers on the cross bars. Did NOT check compression, will also do that before another tune.

Appreciate the info so far. My tires are taller than stock by .3 inches and the tire/wheel setup is 3lbs heavier per corner. I know that's a factor, but not sure how much power I'm losing from that.

VRSF Tiago

iTrader: (138)

I'd def look into a more aggressive set of cams. If the car checks out without any other problems you can see I'd look into the gas you're buying. Most people overlook gas and assume 93 is the same no matter which station you go to. If Dave was pulling timing due to excessive knock it could be the quality of gas.

flymx771

iTrader: (33)

I'm running about the exact same setup as you but mine is a 2.3l. It was just tuned today on a mustang also and put down only 355whp at 28psi on 93oct. The shop told that somethin was up with the boost controller, causing a very weird boost curve. Hopefully a new boost controller and a better set of cams will get me to 400whp. Best of luck to hitting your goal.

sparky

iTrader: (1)

Is your boost peaking at 27+ PSI, then tapering? Or does the turbo hold 27+?

I would say move up to the larger cored BR Race IC. Also, you may want to switch to a MAFless SD setup with a 4" intake and an air filter with a larger surface area and inlet opening. Definitely, do the cam upgrade as everyone else has already suggested. Furthermore, you might benefit from a Shearer or other high quality O2 dump, instead of the merged housing. Finally, you might opt for a better holding DV/BOV, such as Tial, or Synapse.

Is your Red equipped with the FP 18#, or the 25# WGA? If the 18# unit, then I would try increasing WG spring pressure up to about 24-25#, or go with the 25# actuator instead.

Hardware

iTrader: (17)

David's first suggestion was cams so it's good to see everyone else agrees with THE MAN. I made the mistake not doing research when I bought the HKS 272's from BR. Originally I was going to stay with the stock turbo when I bought them. When installing the Ported Exhaust Mani I noticed the hotside had a broken bolt on it (from previous owner). This pissed me off so I ordered a new Turbo altogether which completely messed with the original plan. I wasn't thinking clearly.

I appreciate the thought on Octane. I was tuned elsewhere on a MD and I was around 359whp. 2 totally different states and gas stations. Same exact car setup, 2 different tuners.

Good to know. Good luck as well. We should both probably be at 400whp already so that's what makes it harder to spend more money knowing the bottleneck can still exist.

When I'm looking at the gauge it seems to not taper at all, but I don't stare at it for the whole pull. Who knows how accurate the gauge is though. If you click on my graph above it will open in a separate window and you can zoom in. According to that it looks to taper a little bit.

I appreciate the advice for sure, but I won't change FMIC again. I originally bought a 3" ETS back in May, upgraded to the BR Street the same month because I was told it will be enough for what I want to do.

I will definitely consider cams over the winter as well as a new BOV. Haven't thought about Speed Density though. To be honest I'm more concerned that the car should be giving more power than it already is with the current mods. I'm trying to avoid upgrading the current parts and figuring out if there is a problem somewhere before upgrading.

It is the 18psi wga. Forgive me for being a newb, but what would I gain with a 25psi wga since I have a MBC already? Thanks for the help on this. I'm not saying you are wrong, I'm just completely clueless and this is interesting.

With the recent change of weather dropping from mid 80's to mid 60's the car feels like a whole other animal. If my car ran like this all the time I wouldn't even be interested in doing anything else. At least 6 months out of the year I'll be 100% happy.

BigBADGSX

iTrader: (11)

not to bad, I bet it feels pretty good...i have almost the same exact mod list as you do. Only difference is I have a BR o2 housing and a forge bov. Had a few boost leaks last time I was on the dyno so it killed my numbers(this was at the shootout) lol with boost falling from 33-15psi on e85 I still managed to make 421ft/lbs and of course my hp numbers where low due to the leak.

But like everyone said, do a boost leak test and im sure you will be amazed by what you find. I honestly would have bet I had no leaks last time I got on the dyno, but it quickly showed me I had a few issues.

on a side note, my stock bottom end lasted over a year on that setup until I tossed a rod 2 weeks ago. Now its time to make some real power!!

Good luck with your build

denile

iTrader: (22)

I did a log of this car and checked virtual dyno for accuracy and It is very close.

darwin_evo

Boost looks not to taper much.. you are still above 24 psi at the end of the pull, which is decent.
25psi would keep your boost from tapering, but then again you are good the way you are now.

I would say cams, gsc s2 are the best IMO. You also need to change your BOV, I bet it's leaking, although it's crushed. These two mods should get you to 400 already. People usually underestimate the gains from switching from oem to after market BOV.
You have a 6 speed trans, you should be doing 4th gear pulls. This will usually boost your numbers a little bit.

One more thing, you didn't mention anything about your LICP, you're not on the stock one right?

bigturboevo80

iTrader: (12)

With a better set of cams you should be able to gain 20-30 whp.