Fuel Map Tuning Help
Fuel Map Tuning Help
First attempts here:
I just installed WB a few weeks ago and i have m made a few runs trying to work on fuel maps. I first tried to tune with lean spool enabled and couldnt get AFR's rich enough were staying around 12.5:1 from 4K to 7K. So I disable lean spool and have been attempting to tune without it. I know work is needed on the 3500-5500 RPM range, but no matter what I change tables to from 5500-7000K i keep getting super lean AFR's. here is my current fuel map, yes I know once I get target AFR's I need to do some smoothing work, but then issue is I am having trouble getting target AFR's during top end without going into 7's on fuel map. Any advice is appreciated? My only thought is stock injectors are maxed.
Boosting peak around 24 and tapering to19-20 with no knock.
Mods are in sig minus UICP/LICP running stock UI/LICP, ripped hole in LICP and pulled UICP until battery relocation done.
I just installed WB a few weeks ago and i have m made a few runs trying to work on fuel maps. I first tried to tune with lean spool enabled and couldnt get AFR's rich enough were staying around 12.5:1 from 4K to 7K. So I disable lean spool and have been attempting to tune without it. I know work is needed on the 3500-5500 RPM range, but no matter what I change tables to from 5500-7000K i keep getting super lean AFR's. here is my current fuel map, yes I know once I get target AFR's I need to do some smoothing work, but then issue is I am having trouble getting target AFR's during top end without going into 7's on fuel map. Any advice is appreciated? My only thought is stock injectors are maxed.
Boosting peak around 24 and tapering to19-20 with no knock.
Mods are in sig minus UICP/LICP running stock UI/LICP, ripped hole in LICP and pulled UICP until battery relocation done.
Ah, well atleast investigate the small line going to the FPR. Its a really small nipple, and if you boost leak tested it with the throttle plate closed, I doubt you pressurized the engine enough to force substantial amounts from here. do your engine a favor and atleast look for that nipple to be exposed, or the line to be cracked.
Its on the passenger side of the mani, nearer to the firewall. the hose is probably 2-3 inches long at most.
i cant guarantee this is the problem. however eliminate it!
Its on the passenger side of the mani, nearer to the firewall. the hose is probably 2-3 inches long at most.
i cant guarantee this is the problem. however eliminate it!
Last edited by 211Ratsbud; Jan 17, 2012 at 12:42 PM.
Ah, well atleast investigate the small line going to the FPR. Its a really small nipple, and if you boost leak tested it with the throttle plate closed, I doubt you pressurized the engine enough to force substantial amounts from here. do your engine a favor and atleast look for that nipple to be exposed, or the line to be cracked.
Its on the passenger side of the mani, nearer to the firewall. the hose is probably 2-3 inches long at most.
Its on the passenger side of the mani, nearer to the firewall. the hose is probably 2-3 inches long at most.
Trending Topics
Have you done that yet? I was going absolutely insane one day when that had happened to me. I was likke sell this thing , f this f that.. wtf over and over.. until later that night i saw that line was off the nipple.. DUH!
So I just bypassed the Fuel Pressure Solenoid and went from Fuel Pressure Regulator to mani. I left the FPS bolted and plugged in. Are there any issues running it like this? Do I need to replace FPS?
no its fine. that thing is worthless, its supposed to help a tiny bit on warm starts i believe. all the emission stuff in the car you can actually eliminate if you want also.
btw wrong section of forum though..
you can remove the FPS and remove a periphery bit in the rom to remove cel if it throws one.
no its fine. that thing is worthless, its supposed to help a tiny bit on warm starts i believe. all the emission stuff in the car you can actually eliminate if you want also.
btw wrong section of forum though..
no its fine. that thing is worthless, its supposed to help a tiny bit on warm starts i believe. all the emission stuff in the car you can actually eliminate if you want also.
btw wrong section of forum though..

Just a attempt to get a big time tuners input!

I realized it after I posted it.
If I leave it plugged in and just bypass vacuum line is there a need to edit periphery bit? Or am I better off pulling and editing periphery? Does the periphery bit only affect FPS?
Ah, well atleast investigate the small line going to the FPR. Its a really small nipple, and if you boost leak tested it with the throttle plate closed, I doubt you pressurized the engine enough to force substantial amounts from here. do your engine a favor and atleast look for that nipple to be exposed, or the line to be cracked.
Its on the passenger side of the mani, nearer to the firewall. the hose is probably 2-3 inches long at most.
i cant guarantee this is the problem. however eliminate it!
Its on the passenger side of the mani, nearer to the firewall. the hose is probably 2-3 inches long at most.
i cant guarantee this is the problem. however eliminate it!







