What compression ratio do you have? If its less then 10:1 then you might have other issues. How many miles on the engine?
Does it burn oil or smoke. What is the compression in each cylinder? Strokers are hard on piston skirts/rings.

Presuming the engine is sound and your timing/fuel maps are conservative then you might have false knock . You would need to use DET cans,log knock and adjust knock sensor settings.

Post up logs and we can try to help you out.

 

many built engine counter knock because of valve train or lose clearance so,they guy didn't post logs nither said any data about his build or boost pressure..there's no help in the thread.

 

I don't have any pics as of right now because I am not the tuner and we were only able to get it on a streettune with his laptop. I will see if he can email me them.

 

And no it doesn't burn oil or smoke it feels like its running good.

 

Beside knock sum, are you using detonation cans to confirm? Sometimes the tolerances with a built motor can result in phantom knock because the motor itself is noisy and the frequency threshold of the knock sensor is set to pick up harmonics in a certain range and can be quite sensitive (more often than not a good thing imo). Although this is unlikely it is a possibility and you should confirm with det cans that you are indeed getting knock. Alternatively, and like others have mentioned, if your compression ratio is higher than you might just be reaching the limit of your gas and will either need to run E85, go with a bigger turbo, or spray some meth.

If you'd like to read more on the knock control tables you can do so here

 

Am Im missing somthing . Im totally lost here. I have followed OP build thread and its a very nice build and seems to be very well thought out but I open this thread to see a basic tuning question asked about engine knocking when too much timing is added. Now im confused cause either this car was built by a really good shop and taken to a second rate tuner or the shop isnt as great as it appears. Basic stuff the tuner should know before tuning the car and while tuning a car.
1.What parts are in the engine, ie is it a 10:1 comp
2. What fuel is in the car
3. If car knocks when adding timing then pull back timing and see where boost is at
4. Air Fuel, is car leaning out in certain points
If your tuner cant figure out the issue with the car which sounds pretty basic to me then you might want to find another tuner. Id start with Tom. Not trying to be a azz but it just seems so crazy to have a built stroker engine and be stuck with this type of issue.

 

^ most 2.3 will require much less timing than a 2.0 and the fact that 10.0comp will require less again , without being able to see your timing map , I would say your way to high . 10degrees on a 2.3 with high comp on on ****ty 93 octane is probably to much .

 

Trust me I understand exactly what your saying I'm actually getting it tuned at the same shop that built it. The guy is really good with tuning Evos they say out here. I'm still debating on taking it elsewhere since I know there is plenty of shops out in FL that tune great Evos! I just don't know if it would be worth it to pay for a tune somewhere else for them to tell me I need a meth kit or race gas. You know?

 

he lowered the boost yesterday and the knock comes in 4th gear still "sometimes" but we still didnt dyno it, he said i should get the meth kit and Speed Density before i tune it...

i know what i wanted to do with the car, and the route i'm taking it in. i am very handy when it comes to working on my car and doing mostly it all except (internally) and the whole tuning part i cannot do myself so bare with me if i sound like a complete idiot and dont give enough knowledge on it, because thats a whole different playing feild than what i know how to do.

butttttt..... I asked for the graph of the tunes, and he said he deleted them... ??

to help you guys out a little more here is my engine parts list.

ENGINE:
- INJEN UPPER INTERCOOLER PIPING
- INTAKE PIPING / 4" Red Cone filter
- 4" aluminum Maf adapter
- HKS SSQV BOV
- HBC PURPLE BOOST CONTROLLER
- Straight pipe, HKS tip
- 4" GODSPEED INTERCOOLER
- ALUMINUM RADIATOR
- STM oil cooler kit
- GSC balance shaft elimination kit
- gates water pump
- HKS kevlar timing belt
- ARP headstuds
- AMS mitsubishi lancer Evolution VIII 2.3 stroker kit
• Manley Crankshaft
• Manley Rods
• JE Spec. Pistons
• ARP Main studs
• Crank & Connecting Rod Bearings
• Displacement: 2.3 liters / 2300CC
• Stroke: 100mm
• Compression Ratio: 10:1
- GSC beehive springs & Retainers
- GSC s2 cams
- ID 1000cc fuel injectors
- HKS adjustable cam gears
- Aeromotive FPR
- STM fuel rail adapter
- Walbro 255 fuel pump
- ACT 6 puck clutch
- MUSE 02 dump
- Oil Catchcan
- EVO 9 turbo

 

I would definitely consider that this could be your problem, especially if the knock show up after a couple pulls.

 

I already see your problem, your at 10.1 compression. You will need higher octane to boost higher on that engine but most importantly your tuner needs to lower your timing around the load cells that 4th gear uses. That will make it safe at 18psi.

I really x infinity think you need another tuner man. I pm'd you - leading a horse to water comes to mind.

 

Bro I feel your pain. I would want the same people that built the car also be responsible for tuning it just incase things went bad. It actually happend to me when my builder was tuning my car the rod broke and put a whole in the block. He covered it all cause he knew it was a bad rod and not the tune or the build. Even got the rod replaced by the company. I don't like the fact the tuner lost your graphs of your tune and has no answers for u. I would really consider going else ware for the tune but with your story most tuners are going to want to inspect the engine to be sure it was even put together correctly. I'd would get with Tom(TSCOMPUSA) cause he does amazing remote workL

 

thanks! and i wrote you back, it must've not went through. it was off of my phone. the AMS kit comes with 9:1 but if you read my thread something wasnt done properly from the machine shop so it blew again and they said the rebuilt it with 10:1 instead....? why? idk.. maybe because they needed to? beats me

exactly which is why im still hesitant to go somewhere else. I'm going to talk to him tomorrow see whats up and go from there i will probably end up going with a meth kit and speed density just to get it over with and done properly. I dont want to go through this process AGAIN!

 

Whos tuning it?

 

I assume you're in Orlando judging by the Kings Performance in your signature?

Like others have said, a meth kit is a band-aid. However, sometimes band-aids work. I ran a meth kit on my IX for well over 3 years at 32lbs of boost on a stock block and had no issues whatsoever. I recently tore the engine down to build it but there were no signs of any damage to the stock internals. They're beautiful actually.

I am by no means saying a meth injection kit is the solution for you, I'm just saying they do work and work very well when set up correctly with the proper fail safes.