267 whp Evo 8 Dyno Graph
Apr 14, 2014, 06:37 AM
#1
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267 whp Evo 8 Dyno Graph
Installed Mods during tune & dyno run above:
- 3" Turbo-back Exhaust (3" HKS Downpipe, 3" Custom Testpipe and 3" Greddy EVO2 Cat Back)
- Buschur Mass Air Pipe & Filter
- 91 Octane
Purchased for next tune:
- $106 - 3-Port Grimmspeed EBC
- $95 - Walbro 255 Fuel Pump
- $180 - CXRacing FMIC (installed)
- $285 - Muse Upper & Lower IC Piping (installed)
- $80 - Evo 9 OEM BOV (installed)
- Found 93 Octane near my house, next tune on 93 Octane w/ 10% Ethanol
Wishlist (in order):
- $540 - XXR 521 silver 18 x 8.5 Rims
- $568 - GSC S2 Cams
- $200 - GSC Beehive Springs w/ Stock Retainers
- $230 - Invidia O2 Housing
- $205 - Forge WG Actuator
- $300 - 660cc Injectors
Meh/Maybe Wishlist:
- $430 - SpoolinUp Cop
- $90 - Mishimoto Cooling Plate
- $90 - Mishimoto Radiator Hoses
- $20 - Radiator Stays
- $80 - Catch Can
- $100 - Spark Plug Cover
- $25 - Boomba Battery Holder
- $125 - Carbon Fiber Vortex Generator
- $145 - JM Fab Coolant Overflow Tank
Non go-fast parts:
- Custom Paint - Mitsu Rally Red Pearl w/ BMW Black Metallic on Hood, Roof and Trunk Lid
- Blacked Out Headlight Housings w/ Alpha Automotive UV Protectant
- Smoked LED Tails
- Smoked Sidemarkers
- 20% Tint
- (2) 12" Rockford Fosgate Subs w/ 600W Amp
- (2) 14" Red Neon Cathodes
- Bright Gauge Cluster Overlays
- All Interior Lighting Converted to Red
- Fiberglass Dash w/ 7" DVD Player and eBrake Bypass & HVAC Relocation
- 3-Gauge Pillar Pod
- Sport Comp II Boost Gauge
- Sport Comp II Pyrometer
- AEM Wideband Gauge
- Tanabe Lowering Springs
- Hawk HPS Brake Pads
- Carbon Fiber Hood Dampers
- MAP Exhaust Manifold Heat Shield
- Stainless Fuse Box Cover
- Hyper-Flex Master Bushings set
- Front OEM Strut Brace
- Fidanza Flywheel
- ACT Street Performance Clutch
2003 Evolution VIII w/ 145K miles, no regrets.
Last edited by [GBU]Moon; May 24, 2014 at 10:49 PM.
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Apr 16, 2014, 08:52 AM
#8
The jitter with the graph is a result of the smoothing the shop chose to use. I wouldnt be too concerned about that as long as the car pulls smoothly to redline.
It has nothing to do with heatsoak of the intercooler. If you were having heatsoak issues the ecu would pull timing depending on the severity of the feedback it's receiving from the knock sensor.
As for the injectors, if you plan to stick with the stock turbo and only run 91 then you don't need to worry about replacing them. The stock injectors with a wally will be perfectly fine.
It has nothing to do with heatsoak of the intercooler. If you were having heatsoak issues the ecu would pull timing depending on the severity of the feedback it's receiving from the knock sensor.
As for the injectors, if you plan to stick with the stock turbo and only run 91 then you don't need to worry about replacing them. The stock injectors with a wally will be perfectly fine.
Apr 16, 2014, 09:05 AM
#9
The jitter with the graph is a result of the smoothing the shop chose to use. I wouldnt be too concerned about that as long as the car pulls smoothly to redline.
It has nothing to do with heatsoak of the intercooler. If you were having heatsoak issues the ecu would pull timing depending on the severity of the feedback it's receiving from the knock sensor.
As for the injectors, if you plan to stick with the stock turbo and only run 91 then you don't need to worry about replacing them. The stock injectors with a wally will be perfectly fine.
It has nothing to do with heatsoak of the intercooler. If you were having heatsoak issues the ecu would pull timing depending on the severity of the feedback it's receiving from the knock sensor.
As for the injectors, if you plan to stick with the stock turbo and only run 91 then you don't need to worry about replacing them. The stock injectors with a wally will be perfectly fine.
Apr 16, 2014, 04:35 PM
#12
Evolved Member
Apr 17, 2014, 10:06 AM
#13
From what I've read, a replacement WG Actuator helps to keep the boost pressure consistent by holding and controlling the discharge of boost better. The dyno sheet above looks fairly consistent to me and that's with a (maybe leaky) Evo 8 OEM plastic BOV. I already purchased an Evo 9 OEM metal BOV and a 3-port Grimmspeed Boost Controller which should only improve that line. How necessary is it for me to replace the WG Actuator?
I plant to take this car to ~330 whp. I've spent a lot on my car in the past month and I basically want to add one more thing for my next tune, either WG Actuator, O2 Dump or 660 Injectors. I think I'm fine with the 255 Walbro Pump and stock injectors, it's really just a toss-up between O2 dump and WG Actuator. From what I've read, many say the O2 dump was their favorite mod, probably because of the noise, but I've seen some nice gain claims. Thoughts?
I plant to take this car to ~330 whp. I've spent a lot on my car in the past month and I basically want to add one more thing for my next tune, either WG Actuator, O2 Dump or 660 Injectors. I think I'm fine with the 255 Walbro Pump and stock injectors, it's really just a toss-up between O2 dump and WG Actuator. From what I've read, many say the O2 dump was their favorite mod, probably because of the noise, but I've seen some nice gain claims. Thoughts?
Last edited by [GBU]Moon; Apr 17, 2014 at 10:16 AM.
Apr 17, 2014, 03:36 PM
#15
How much power are you putting down with your mods if you don't mind my asking?
Last edited by [GBU]Moon; Apr 17, 2014 at 03:41 PM.